Roaming on the Rhine

It was another stunning morning as the rising sun turned the vineyard-covered hills orange, but it was the sound of an ancient bell starting to chime that made me look up.

I was on the top deck of the river cruise ship doing my daily morning yoga stretches. I’d been facing the floor in a downward dog when I’d heard the bell strike. Exercises forgotten, I sat on the deck watching the tiny village and its medieval church slip past. The tower was already disappearing from sight behind us as it struck its final, seventh chime.

This was my first ever cruise. When I told my friends, they’d all had the same reaction. 'But you climb mountains and travel independently – you don’t go on cruises!'

A traditional ocean cruise had never appealed, but when relatives told me about a river cruise they'd been on, it made me think again.

A different destination every day and constantly changing views, the freedom to join excursions or do your own thing, a small ship with just 190 passengers and sleeping in the same cabin every night, with none of the tedious packing and unpacking you have to do on a tour – what's not to like?

And as an older single woman, there would be new people to meet without feeling vulnerable. I had always wanted to explore the Rhine, to visit a part of Europe I only knew about from maps and geography lessons at school.

Being collected from my door in Wales and driven to the airport took the stress out of travelling, with no worries about parking or train connections.

The cruise started in Basel, Switzerland, and headed north. We would take in Breisach, for the Black Forest, in Germany, then cross the French border to Strasbourg. Next would be Heidelberg, then the Middle Rhine Gorge, Koblenz, Dusseldorf and finally Amsterdam.

At Basel I joined my fellow passengers to board our home for the week in time for dinner and chatted to a couple who were first timers, too. We had similar plans – a combination of organised excursions and independent exploring.

The food was delicious and beautifully presented, the service friendly and efficient, and the restaurant turned out to be a great meeting place. Seating isn’t reserved and for singles there are two big round tables, though I was regularly invited to join couples or groups.

On the first morning after a buffet breakfast (with no queues) the tour manager outlined the excursions, explaining if they were easy or challenging, so that you could make an informed choice. That afternoon I joined my first coach excursion in years, a chance to plug into some music and enjoy the views without worrying about driving or navigating.

After a stop for Black Forest gateau (of course), we cruised on an electric boat around Lake Titisee. At 850 metres above sea level and so clean it’s designated as drinking water, wild swimmers and paddleboarders were enjoying the sunshine as much as we were.

The next day was Strasburg where I joined the morning river tour. The man and woman next to me had lived in the city when he worked for the European Parliament, so they were visiting old friends before returning to the ship that evening.

I left them as they were reunited by the cathedral and headed off for lunch. An outside table at a restaurant in the main square meant I could people- watch and enjoy a traditional tarte flambée with a glass of local wine.

On to Heidelberg, home to Germany’s oldest university and a Renaissance castle that attracts more than one million visitors every year and has stunning views over the old town with its winding cobbled streets. It also has what is said to be the biggest wine barrel in the world, made in 1751 from an estimated 130 oak trees and holding 221,726 litres of wine.

In the afternoon I headed off the ship on foot to the Technik Museum to escape the 33o heat. This contains everything from old locomotives, the first computer, a U-boat, classic racing cars and even a real-life Space shuttle. For the young-at-heart, a former Lufthansa passenger plane has been turned into an enormous helter-skelter.

On the day we sailed through the Rhine Gorge we tucked into a barbecue lunch while gazing at the famous Lorelei rock, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the evenings you could head ashore if it wasn’t an early sailing, or stay in the bar for live music or a pub quiz.

Every day we were in a different destination. in Düsseldorf I went window shopping at Tiffany, Gucci and Chanel; I hiked through woodland to reach the fairytale medieval castle of Eltz at Wierschem; and enjoyed the cool of the 12th-century Basilica of Saint Castor in Koblenz.

On the final day we sailed under low bridges into Amsterdam, where the ship moors in the centre of the city by the railway station, so everything is on your doorstep. After a canal cruise, I jumped on a tram to visit the flower market, before using Google Maps to find Winkel, a café with the reputation of serving the best apple cake in Amsterdam. It’s a cake I’ve baked myself for decades and this one was superb. I shared my table in the busy café with a local resident who told me the secret to the cake was the single variety of apple used.

I’d sailed down the Rhine in seven days but it had flown by. I’d expected to spend more time reading, more time sitting on the deck watching the scenery go by. But for me it had been a week of exploration, in a luxurious, floating, boutique hotel. That’s the joy of a river cruise – it can be what you want.

For some it was an all-inclusive river alternative to a coach trip, while others preferred to remain on board, enjoying the chance to relax, unwind and enjoy good food and conversation. For me it was a safe way of doing some independent exploring, with good food and great company.

My cabin was very comfortable. I loved all the storage space, with full-size wardrobe, drawers, cupboards and cubby holes. The shower was hot and powerful and the free toiletries a thoughtful touch.

The Juliet sliding-patio doors brought the outdoors in and a favourite moment was watching the crew skilfully parallel park against the harbour wall in Koblenz.

I really hadn’t known what to expect on my first river cruise. Other guests said I’d struck lucky with Saga! Ages ranged from 50s to 80s, mostly couples but with singles, friends in pairs and parent-child combinations. There were adventurous types who had travelled the world, others enjoying a quieter retirement and all wanting to find out more about this part of Europe.

I haven’t ditched my independent travel and am currently planning a solo trip to the Balkans, but I am already eyeing up a Danube river cruise for the autumn.

Tips:

• Book excursions you really fancy in advance, as they can sell out.
• Don’t pack designer ballgowns. It’s smart casual for dinner – think high-end UK restaurant dining.
• We had sunshine and hot weather, but pack a waterproof jacket and brolly just in case.
• The cruise team has a wealth of local information and are happy to suggest restaurants and cafes on shore.
• If you are moored away from historic centres there is normally transport provided, so check times.
• Sailing times are posted by the gangway so you don’t get left behind.

Take me there

Discover cultural cities, historic towns, fairytale castles and sweeping vineyards on a Rhine river cruise with Saga.

We offer a great selection of itineraries aboard our all-inclusive, boutique ship, Spirit of the Rhine, designed with our customers in mind.

As well as our included nationwide chauffeur service, every cruise includes speciality dining, all-inclusive drinks, included gratuities, complimentary Wi-Fi and more.