The delights of a Douro cruise

By Sue Bryant

Portugal’s mountainous Douro Valley is the world’s oldest demarcated wine-growing region, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique cultural landscape, the beauty of its terraced vineyards and the traditional farming techniques practiced there.

And Saga’s seven-night Douro Explorer cruise, combining sightseeing and relaxation, is the perfect way to explore it.

What to expect on a Douro cruise

The scenery along the Douro is striking, immaculate vineyards snaking around the contours of steep hills as far as the eye can see. The banks are dotted with enchanting little towns where you can discover local traditions and taste regional food.

Grand quintas, the sprawling wine-making estates where the famous port wine is produced, bask in the sunshine, gazing out over the river.

There are magnificent views every step of the way. The mesmerising curves of the vineyards are offset by the wild beauty of the Upper Douro, where groves of silvery olive trees line the banks and, in early spring, the almond trees are pink with blossom.

What’s more, there are majestic cities to explore. Vibrant, quirky Oporto, clinging to the steep north bank of the Douro is all about art, culture, fashion and food, while its sister city, Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite bank is famed for its historic port lodges.

A big bonus of a Douro cruise is that all sailing is done in daylight, so there are ever-changing views for the duration of your cruise.

A Saga Douro cruise on the all-inclusive Douro Serenity is exceptional value. Everything covered, from flights and transfers to travel insurance, gratuities, all dining, drinks and eight delightful shore excursions. All you’ll have to pay for is souvenirs.

What you’ll see and do

Your first night will be spent moored in Vila Nova de Gaia with dreamy views of historic Oporto opposite. Getting across the river is easy if you fancy a wander along the lively Oporto waterfront; the views from Dom Luis I Bridge, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel, are spectacular.

Once Douro Serenity has set sail, the first of your eight included excursions is to the elaborate Mateus Palace, near Régua. Drinkers of the famed Mateus Rosé, that fizzy 1970s dinner party staple, will recognise the palace from the label, although the wine is produced elsewhere. You’ll spend that night and the next in pretty Pinhão, deep amid the vineyards – take a stroll to the railway station to admire the beautiful blue-and-white tile murals depicting the production of port wine.

Wine tasting is an essential part of any Douro cruise and your next included excursions are to the Favaios Winery to learn about wine growing and taste the muscat produced here. Then travel to Quinta da Avessada where you can explore the history and culture of the wine in the Douro Valley. The small museum offers and insight into the various stages of wine production. Later enjoy a traditional dinner at the vineyard.

The following day’s tour is to Castelo Rodrigo, a sleepy medieval village perched high on a hilltop, surrounded by almond trees and ancient olive groves. Visit the 12th-century Romanesque church and browse the shops for almonds in every flavour, chestnut or sour cherry liqueur, local honey, ceramics, and cork products.

From Barca de Alva, there’s a full day trip across the border into Spain to glorious Salamanca, an elegant city built from sandstone that glows gold in the sunshine and blends Romanesque, gothic, Moorish and baroque styles.

Sample the local pata negra ham and cheese in the market; drink coffee in the colonnaded Plaza Major, buzzing with students in term time; take a tour of the 12th-century university; and admire the two cathedrals. Your day here includes a traditional lunch and a vibrant flamenco show.

Back in Portugal, join an included tour to Lamego, a city famed for its elaborate shrine, the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, lying atop nine steep terraces overlooking the town. Wander round the baroque church, and if you fancy, walk down the ornate 700-step staircase into town. Bear in mind that pilgrims walk up the stairs and the truly devout do this on their knees. Whichever route you choose, there are plenty of alluring cafés in town for coffee and cake after your efforts.

The last day of your Douro cruise is spent in Oporto, with an included city tour and later visit a local wine cellar you can learn more about the production of port wine and enjoy a tasting. Make time for a francesinha, the city’s signature sandwich, multiple layers of white toast, different meats and melted cheese, drenched in a thick, rich beer sauce.

Stay a little longer

Why not extend your Douro cruise with a few days in Lisbon? Saga offers a 10-night Lisbon and the Heart of the Douro holiday which includes three nights in the Portuguese capital before the Douro Explorer river cruise.

You’ll stay at the four-star Hotel Fénix Lisbon, right in the heart of the city opposite Marquês of Pombal Square. It’s the perfect base from which to explore the highlights, including the Belém Tower and the Monument to the Discoveries, both visited on an included tour.

Discover the atmospheric Bairro Alto district, the best place to attend a haunting performance of fado – Portugal's traditional, melancholic folk music. Foodies will love the Time Out market, a bustling food market dotted with bars and restaurants – you can even join a cookery class here to learn how to make the iconic custard tarts, pastel de nata.

On board Douro Serenity

Your home on the Douro will be the smart, 114-passenger Douro Serenity, a ship built specifically for this river and used exclusively by Saga. The Serenity is a little different from Saga’s other custom-built ships – vessels sailing the Douro are slightly smaller than those on the Rhine and Danube to negotiate the locks and the river’s tight bends.

On board, you’ll find a light-filled lounge with panoramic views of the hills, villages and vineyards, as well as a sun deck with a small plunge pool. The restaurant serves tempting buffets at breakfast and lunch, featuring some local specialities, and four-course dinners with wine in the evenings. The ship has a small gym and spa, as well as a shop – and WiFi is included throughout.

The cabins on the main and upper decks come with windows that slide down to create a French balcony effect, letting the sea breezes in. There are six cabins for single use and a lift connects the lower, main and upper decks. Douro Serenity is an extremely comfortable base from which to explore the delights of the Douro.

When is the best time to go?

The Douro season is a long one, running from March to November. There are compelling reasons to visit at any point during the season.

Spring is when the wildflowers bloom. In March, you may catch the end of the almond blossom season, when the hills are awash with pale pink. Spring is also when the citrus trees are heavy with fruit. The temperatures in April and May are ideal for vineyard hikes and riverside cycle rides.

Summers along the Douro are undeniably hot. The deck is the perfect place to enjoy the splash pool on deck – and a cocktail as the setting sun turns the vineyards a rich gold. The vines are ripe with grapes and in Oporto, outdoor dining on the banks of the river is in full swing.

September and October is harvest season, with festivals, grape picking and, as autumn progresses, the brilliant colours of the vines turning vibrant shades of crimson and yellow. November is the quietest time – you will need to wrap up warm and bring a waterproof, but towns and villages are calm and peaceful.