Saga Ruby Captain's blog

Piraeus is a very busy port, particularly around 7am when dozens of ferries arrive and depart carrying their cargo of commuting passengers to the Peloponese and beyond. According to the guidebook, it is the biggest commercial port in Europe, and third largest in the world. With this in mind I disregarded my instruction to arrive at 7am and pitched up at 6am instead. By 6.30am we were docked, before the morning marine rush hour got into full swing.

Despite its significance as a port, the surroundings aren’t too attractive. It is the port for Athens however, which definitely has some attractive points. The stadiums of Olympic games from 1896 and of course 2004 are part of the tourist trail, together with the Temple of Zeus and UNESCO World Heritage site Acropolis. Many passengers joined organised excursions to learn of Greece’s ancient and modern lifestyle, with only a handful remaining aboard to laze beneath the Greek sun. Greece’s financial turmoil and civil unrest took a day off today, permitting a trouble free visit to the nation’s capital.

Sailing out in the evening was a case of slotting in between the ferries and enjoying the sunset ahead of us. By 8pm we were back in the shipping lanes, or Traffic Separation Schemes as we know them, meandering our way through the local shipping that hasn’t quite come to grips with the rules of safe navigation that the rest of the world observes.

The Covent Garden Piano Quartet performed Mozart in the early evening, followed by our singers and dancers showcasing songs from around the world in their show ‘Sail Away’.

We had been blessed with excellent weather from Vigo to Valletta. Cruising at near top speed Saga Ruby had not rolled once throughout the voyage. Such weather has delighted my passengers, particularly those that are affected by the ship’s movement. In keeping with the calm seas, the sun has continued to shine too. There are a few red noses to be seen.

Such great weather has meant that the dancers amongst the passengers have had ideal conditions to enjoy their pastime. Last night we held a ball. The dance floor was full as compeer and Cruise Director Jo Boase had everyone on their feet dancing everything from a waltz to the hoke koke! There was a Britannia Club party earlier. An astonishing 75% of my passengers have sailed at least 35 nights aboard Saga cruise ships.

Our arrival in Malta was under blue skies and with only a gentle breeze, manoeuvring and docking saga Ruby was a breeze too. The pilot was happy to take a back seat as I took Ruby through the tight harbour entrance chicane, spun her around, and docked on the beautifully refurbished cruise pier. The pier was quiet this time, only last week Pope Benedict XVI had stood on the pier on his visit to Malta. Many passengers were lining the decks at that early hour, I’m sure that they enjoyed the arrival as much as I.

As usual I stood at the gangway to see the passengers off to their tours. The mood is good and everyone cheerfully went ashore to explore this beautiful port and attractive island. A few had last seen Valletta during World War II, they seemed impressed, and happy to revive old memories.

Today, we were visited by Port Health for our six-monthly inspection for rats. I’m pleased to report that no rodents were discovered and we were issued with a Deratting Certificate. All ships must carry this certificate - without it we cannot enter port.

At our afternoon departure I was joined by William and Brenda Mayes. William is the author of ‘Cruise ships’ a well illustrated reference book of shipping companies’ history and cruise ships currently in service. His latest third-edition features a photograph of Saga Ruby on the cover. It was nice to chat as we sailed out of the harbour.

On deck my passengers eagerly awaited the firing of the canons from the walls of the fortress. All eight cannons fired in turn as we slowly cruised past. We sounded 3 long blasts on the ship’s whistle to return their salute, before heading to sea.

It was a fast turnaround in Southampton as we disembarked all passengers, cleaned, loaded provisions, bunkered fuel oil, and embarked our new passengers. This is the ‘Black Sea Odyssey’ cruise, and the first leg was 675 nautical miles back to Vigo in north-west Spain, on our way, of course, to the Med and Black Sea.

We departed Southampton via the Needles channel at the western point of the Isle of Wight. From there we routed south-westerly across the English Channel and through the Bay of Biscay to Cape Finisterre. I held a welcome cocktail party and judging by the hubbub of conversation I predict a lively cruise.

In the early hours, I was awoken by the ship’s physician, Doctor Mauro Neri. An urgent medical debark was required as one of my passengers was unwell. As we increased to full speed towards the Brittany coast a French rescue helicopter was dispatched with a medical team aboard. They were winched to the deck and began stabilising the patient. An hour later the helicopter returned and whisked the patient, together with the medical team, off to hospital. As always, a great job done by the fearless helicopter crews that give huge reassurance to those at sea.

Despite the delay whilst manoeuvring for the helicopter, we arrived at Vigo on schedule. A cloudy start kept things cool, but forecast sunshine later was something to look forward to. My passengers disembarked for their tours to this region of Spain, Galicia. Armed with cameras and bottles of water they headed for Vigo, Pontevedra, Bayona, and Santiago de Compostela.

Departure was at 5pm - next stop Valletta, Malta. 1,543 miles to run along the Portuguese coast, through the Straits of Gibraltar, and along Africa’s Mediterranean coastline. Sea conditions are ‘slight’ ensuring a comfortable cruise, and a chance to see some dolphins and whales in such fine weather.

The theme of the cruise is Jazz. In the evening banjo entertainer and singer Steve Galler performed some all time favourites.

It was a leisurely arrival this morning into Vigo’s natural harbour. Approaching by the south entrance channel we passed the mussel beds and embarked the harbour pilot. It was a short run up to the berth, and Saga Ruby was soon made fast to the quayside.

The morning sun made us feel immediately welcome, and it wasn’t long before my group of explorers were eagerly marching ashore. Tours to Vigo and the fishing town of Bayonna were offered, but the popular destination of the day was Santiago de Compostela, a pilgrimage town since ancient times. It was forecast to be a nice day, and I’m happy to report that it was.

Volcanic dust high over northern Europe had grounded all flights. Saga Ruby came to the rescue of 40 or so Saganauts stranded in Spain following their holiday, giving them a lift back to Blighty. They’d set off on a river cruise and ended up on a world cruise!

As Saga Ruby departed in the early afternoon my passengers enjoyed their final sailaway. This was the last port of the world cruise, before we cruised the final leg of our voyage back to Southampton - 675 miles across the Bay of Biscay, and into the English Channel. We entered the Solent through the Needles channel before docking in time for an early breakfast at the new Ocean Cruise Terminal.

Saga Ruby had travelled 32086 miles circumnavigating the globe. For some it was a once in a lifetime voyage, for others an annual event. She had departed Southampton on 7th January crossing the Atlantic. The winter weather was not kind and a choppy crossing meant that she bypassed the Azores before arriving in the Caribbean sunshine and cooling trade winds. A few exotic islands and ports later she cruised the Panama Canal to vibrant Latin America and a not too peaceful Pacific Ocean.

A landing on Easter Island under the gaze of the Moai statues was a highlight, before the Bounty mutineers’ hideout at Pitcairn Island. Onwards then to Tahiti and Fiji. Once again weather made life uncomfortable as a tropical cyclone disrupted the schedule. Eight ports in New Zealand delighted my passengers with great weather, spectacular scenery, and very friendly locals. A crossing to Australia then, and my turn to take command, letting Captain Rentell fly home for some R’n’R.

Joining in Sydney I was soon meeting my passengers for the second half of the world cruise. Ports in the Great Barrier Reef and Northern Territories gave a glimpse into life Down-Under. Indonesia, Singapore, and Malaysia breezed by. Then came Sri Lanka and India and a very different view of life.

A stop in Oman was followed by a sprint through Somali pirate territory en-route to ports in the Red Sea. A hot and dusty day transiting the Suez Canal was followed by cooler Mediterranean springtime conditions. Cyprus and Malta were pleasant stops before sailing past Gibraltar and back into the Atlantic. This time the ocean was remarkably placid, and remained so all the way to Southampton. 103 nights and 39 ports since departure early in the new year.

My passengers had enjoyed some great food too, sampling local flavours as we toured the world. Barbecues and gala dinners featured regularly. They consumed huge quantities of fruit and vegetables, many tons of meat and fish, 143,000 eggs, 17 tons of potatoes, almost 1000 bottles of whisky and 15,000 bottles of wine!

A host of lecturers and entertainers had occupied the time of my passengers. My favourites were Tom O’Connor and Farrel Smith, we’ll see her again singing at the FA Cup final. Many books were read, and plenty of snoozing took place too, often at the same time in the library!

To the hundreds of people involved in such an adventure I extend my thanks. Pilots and tour guides, coach drivers and tug skippers, lecturers, entertainers, and the remarkable crew of the Saga Ruby. The crew remained cheerful and hard working throughout, and I’m sure that they will have left fond memories with the passengers of the Saga Ruby World Cruise 2010.

Clear skies greeted us this morning as we approached Grand Harbour, the port of Valletta and one of the world’s deepest natural harbours.

The city, encircled by superb bastion walls, was built by the Knights of St. John. It is a masterpiece of baroque architecture, narrow streets, pretty courtyards, statues and fountains. Splendid churches, palaces and museums that house spectacular works of art are a testament to its rich cultural past.

The harbour is the centrepiece to this fine city that has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I was joined by a couple of passengers who had bid at our charity auction for the privilege of breakfast on the bridge as we sailed into Malta. They seemed impressed at the way Saga Ruby easily manoeuvred alongside.

For my passengers it was a busy day as they sought to enjoy this magnificent city. The forecast was good, and the sun shone upon us. Some took organised tours, others jumped into taxi cabs, whilst the fitter ones set off on foot to explore. For many it was a very full day enjoying the sights and sounds of the Maltese capital, intersected by good food at the local restaurants.

Malta was remembered by our ex-navy passengers as it served as a naval base during WWII. For them it was a chance to revisit and remember.

As we sailed, I was joined by another couple that had won the bid to join me on the bridge. They sipped champagne as I got on with the task of slipping Saga Ruby’s moorings and heading to sea once more. As we passed the high fortifications eight cannons were fired one after another, adding to the atmosphere of our departure. Sounding three long blasts on the ship’s whistle to return the gun salute, I then rang full ahead on the engines.

Saga Ruby needed to pick up speed quickly in order to ensure precise steering through the chicane that is the breakwater. Our zigzag course went as planned and we were soon at sea on our westward track towards the Atlantic.

After dinner we enjoyed a double dose of Hot Rhythms. Our singers and dancers performed their ‘Hot Rhythms’ show and then The Hot Rhythm Orchestra under the direction of Colin Bryant entertained in the Preview lounge. Quality jazz to round off a quality day.

After a choppy night, Saga Ruby entered the port of Limassol on the island of Cyprus which lies in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea. The sunny resort of Limassol is one of the largest towns on the island, lying in the heart of wine country. Along with far reaching sandy beaches there is a fine selection of restaurants and tavernas.

The wind remained fresh throughout the day, cooling a the effects of the afternoon sunshine. My passengers didn’t seem perturbed by the fact that they had to wear jumpers and jackets as they set off on the inevitable round of tours to the archaeological sites, villages, and churches of the island. There was a shuttle bus too, delivering them to the old quarter of the town for shopping and people watching from the comfort of pavement cafes.

At 5pm a Greek Cypriot folkloric group performed traditional dance before my passengers dined with a Greek inspired menu. We were able to sail later than scheduled, an opportunity for Miss Faryl Smith to perform before our departure. She wowed the audience with her powerful voice and charming personality. Singing the National Anthem at last year’s and this year’s F.A. Cup Final at Wembley, and recently nominated for two Classical Brit Awards, it was a pleasure to have her aboard Saga, the only cruise company for whom she performs exclusively.

By the time we departed at 10.30pm the wind had eased and a pleasant crossing of the Med was forecast for our 927 mile voyage to Malta. Increasing to full speed to make up for lost time it was a pleasure to be in calmer waters again.

Allocated to be No1 in the convoy of 21 ships northbound in the Suez Canal, we left the anchorage at Port Suez around 6am. An early start, but it would mean that we would also be the first to clear the other end of the canal at Port Said in the evening. The canal is 101 miles long, to the west is the low-lying Nile delta, to the east the higher, rugged and arid Sinai Peninsular.

En-route I made announcements to my passengers as we passed towns, bridges, and monuments. There was sand aplenty to see on this eastern edge of the Sahara, and there was a hint of Egypt’s military might on show too, guarding this significant waterway. A strong hot westerly wind blew dust and insects over Saga Ruby, and reduced visibility during our transit.

A lot of the canal is too narrow for large ocean-going ships to pass each other, and so it was necessary to slow down as we transited through the Bitter Lakes to allow the south-bound convoy to clear before continuing our journey north. We also reduced speed passing Lake Timsah and the town of Ishmalia to exchange our pilot. The lake is a pretty tourist area with white-sand beaches and hotels. Even President Mubarak has a holiday villa there.

We cleared the canal around 5pm. Finally at sea, we were quickly reminded of seasonal weather in these latitudes. Strong winds were blowing in the Levant, making our sea passage uncomfortable, particularly for those that had grown used to calmer waters. One person who succumbed to the effects of the ship’s motion was our star performer, Miss Farrel Smith. Sadly she had to cancel her show, but some men with more robust stomachs stood in. Colin Bryant and his Hot Rhythm Orchestra kept our spirits high and our feet tapping to some great traditional Jazz.

Saga Ruby proceeded at full speed overnight for Port Suez. Arriving before our 3am deadline, the pilot boarded and by 4.45am we were anchored at the inner anchorage. With a tender ride to shore and a long drive to Cairo ahead of them, my passengers disembarked early. By 7am many were on their way for a full day to Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities and to the Pyramids of Giza.

For those that chose to remain aboard there was the option of a regular tender service to shore, but most chose to laze, eat, drink, and sleep on deck. The passing convoys of ships entering and leaving the Suez Canal enough entertainment on a sunny day. In the evening we also had some local singers and dancers as ‘Shokry’ performed traditional Egyptian folk music in the main lounge.

Sharm is on the southern tip of the Sinai peninsular and has become a popular resort on Egypt’s Red Sea Riviera. It boasts attractive bays and an enviable climate, golden sandy beaches and extraordinary diving and snorkelling. It is a haven for shoppers and water-sports enthusiasts.

I was first off the ship, astride my bicycle. I left at 7.30am for an hour or so of cycling around the bay and old town of Sharm El Sheikh. The weather was warm and sunny making it a pleasure to be out. Later I roamed the decks of Saga Ruby, chatting with the passengers who had chosen to remain aboard their ‘yacht’. Many passengers took the shuttle bus into town, or stopped off at the beach for a lazy day onshore.

Departure was at 4pm, an early getaway necessary for a very early arrival at Port Suez tomorrow morning. In order to proceed into the inner anchorage we will need to arrive before 3am to avoid conflicting with the traffic in the busy shipping lanes of the Suez Canal. For me it meant a cup of Horlicks and an early night to bed.

Routing through the Red Sea we enjoyed sunny warm weather and calm seas on our way to Egypt. A couple of days ago we held our annual ‘Country Fayre’. It’s a fundraising event for our chosen World Cruise charities, which are the Sion Children’s Home and the Victoria Memorial School for Blind boys, both situated in Mumbai, India. Featuring traditional village fete games and stalls, an amazing £8,000 was raised. Combined with other fundraising, and a generous donation from Saga, it brings our total so far in excess of £16,000. Well done, and a big thank you to everyone!

The pilot boarded at 5am for our arrival at Safaga on Egypt’s Red Sea Riviera. An early start was necessary in order to get lengthy tours away. Inland lies Luxor, Karnak, and the Valley of the Kings. Many of my passengers were also up early to visit these great sites where the Pharaohs built huge temples and were laid to rest in fascinating tombs.

Other passengers had a more leisurely start and were later treated to an underwater voyage aboard a submarine to view the stunning marine life of the Red Sea. Angel fish and parrot fish were seen darting between the corals as the huge yellow submarine gently navigated the undersea world.

Safaga itself is only a small commercial town. Saga Ruby lay nestled between ageing ferries undergoing repairs during this winter season and a ship discharging cement. Winter weather today was sunshine and 25 degrees C, although it did feel cooler as we’ve become acclimatised to warmer conditions! In order to enjoy this weather some passengers took a taxi to the nearby resort of Hurghada, an opportunity to laze on a beach or swim amongst the corals.

During the day we were visited by officials of the Egyptian Port State Control. They came to check that Saga Ruby was ship shape and all her paperwork in good order. Arriving with family members just before lunch, the principal documentation scrutinised was the restaurant menu!

There was time for an Arabian deck party with barbecue, singing, and dancing under the stars before we departed at 2100 and negotiated the reefs of the Red Sea. Many of my passengers dressed in Middle Eastern attire to add to the theme, and they looked very nice indeed.

Slicing through a flat calm sea, Saga Ruby entered the port of Salalah on the Indian Ocean coast of Oman. Passing the huge containerships transhipping their boxes at this crossroads to the Middle East, she was docked next to an American warship. These waters are the pirates’ hunting ground and there a quite a few of the world’s navies represented here.

We were moored to the quay and the gangway in place for our 9 am arrival time. Shortly after my passengers began their tour excursions. Looking around at the scenery beyond the container cranes I could only see desert with the occasional scruffy building. But my passengers were off to enjoy the desert in 4-wheel-drive vehicles, to visit sites of archaeology, and to haggle for some frankincense at Al Balid – another one of those UNESCO sites. They left covered in sunscreen and brandishing water bottles in readiness of a forecast 36C / 97F of blistering sunshine.

For the workers it was a morning of drills. With imaginary fires burning, my emergency teams went into action. Boats were lowered and life-rafts inflated, and our tiny armada of rescue craft pottered around the harbour.

Next came my M.O.T. - Doctor Mauro Neri and the gorgeous nurses in our medical centre gave me my annual check-up. After an hour and a half of tests and being wired up to machines they agreed that I was still living and medically fit for purpose, although a few less cakes would be prudent. Same as last year then!

In the evening my crew turned out to entertain. Showing more of their many talents, the different departments put on acts of song, dance, magic, humour, and, of course, drag. The feast of talent was overseen by compeer, and View Restaurant Chef, Sven Diederichs. The show was well received by an appreciative audience, in fact an enjoyable time was had by all.

Departure was at 1am. Not exactly my favourite hour to go to work, but a late sail was necessary to ensure that we travelled at full speed through the Gulf of Aden. We headed well out to sea to join our group transit of the Universal Transit Corridor - a sea-lane monitored by coalition naval forces to offer protection to the shipping in the region. From there we’ll voyage west into the Red Sea, next port Safaga in Egypt.