Saga Pearl II Captain's blog

The village of Flam lies in the heart of Western Norway at the innermost part of Aurlandsjford, a tributary of the Sognefjord. At almost 130 miles long, the Sognefjord is the longest and, in my opinion, the most beautiful of Norway’s fjords. Flam itself is surrounded by picturesque scenery of meadows, orchards and imposing mountains. Tourists come to Flam from all over the world to ride on the famous Flam Railway. This runs up the Myrdal where it connects with the main Oslo to Bergen line. The railway is a masterpiece of engineering and offers one of the most dramatic train journeys in Europe, passing dramatic cascading waterfalls, steep hillsides and snow-capped mountains.

Our first excursion leaving the ship today allowed our guests the chance to take a trip on the famous ‘Flam Railway’ This 3 hour tour took in all the highlights on an unforgettable journey to see some of the most wonderful mountains and waterfalls that characterise this beautiful part of Norway.

Our second excursion to leave the ship today was the ‘Laerdal and Borgund Stave Church’ tour. This scenic excursion reveals the quaint village of Laerdal, set in the innermost part of the Sognefjord. Passengers boarded a coach and travelled along the magnificent fjord towards Aurland passing through various tunnels carved into the mountains before arriving at the heart of the village. Next was a chance to visit the beautiful Borgund Stave Church for an opportunity to look around this intriguing building before heading back to the ship.

Our final excursion to leave the ship was the ‘Iconic Norway’ tour. This sightseeing tour begins with a short walk from the pier to the railway station to board the train for a memorable journey on the Flam Railway, passing through a narrow valley hemmed in by towering, snow capped mountains. As the train ascends there is a pause at Kjosfossen, where our guests could disembark to take photographs of the tumbling waterfall. It was then time to change trains at Myrdal and continue on to the village of Voss beside Lake Vangsvatnet. Although heavily bombed during World War II, its old church which dates from 1277 remains standing. It has some rather unusual features, including an octagonal steeple dating from the 16th century. After a buffet lunch in the restaurant of a local hotel, our guests rejoined the coach and continued through Norway’s dramatic scenery, stopping at another beautiful waterfall, Tvindefossen, before heading down through Stalheim Canyon. After pausing in Stalheim, our guests headed off on the final part of their excursion, driving along a thrilling road that negotiates 13 hairpin bends in just one mile before returning back onboard.
As soon as all our passengers were accounted for I slid the Saga Pearl II easily off her berth as we made our way out through the Sognefjord, towards the North Sea and south to Southampton. This was my first ever cruise to Norway in wintertime as Captain and it will be one that stays in my memory, and I’m sure that of our guests, for a long time to come.........

Alesund is the commercial capital of the more romsdal district and has a distinctive and unique character. It does not look like other Norwegian towns as there are no wooden clapboard buildings around its harbour side instead the city is crammed with art nouveau architecture and design. This distinctive look is down to a massive rebuild hat took place after a fire devastated the city in 1904, leaving 10,000 people homeless. The scale of the disaster was so huge that it gave rise to a popular people saying “I have never heard anything like it since Alesund burned down”.

The rebuilding programme used the style of architecture that was popular at the time and was helped by donations of materials from all over Europe. Outside of the city nearby Borgund was an important Viking settlement and is now a fascinating open air museum.

When the Saga Pearl II visited Alesund a couple of weeks ago my colleague who was ‘in the chair’ at the time, Captain Philip Rentell, mentioned the wind speed on their arrival had reached up to 40 knots. I’m happy to report this time it was a far different affair with almost no wind and even a hint of sunshine as we glided onto our berth.

The first shore excursion to depart the Saga Pearl II this morning was a trip to Geirangerfjord. Leaving Alesund and embarking on a modern cruiser for the first part of the full day tour our guests cruised through the harbour towards Storfjorden and onto Geirangerfjord. The cruise took the best part of three hours past dramatic landscapes, including the 7 sister’s waterfalls, arriving at Geirnager for lunch. Whilst in Geiranger our guests visited the Norwegian fjords centre to learn about the region’s nature, culture and history and view an avalanche simulation on a 180 degrees screen. Continuing towards Eidsdal guests boarded a ferry for a crossing to linge and then enjoyed the scenery on a relaxing drive back to Storfjorden.

Another excursion to leave in the morning was a trip to the islands of Giske and Godoy. The tour commenced with an enjoyable sightseeing tour of Alesund, driving through the art noveau quarter to see the architecture which replaced Norwegian buildings that were lost to fire the famous fire in 1904. After leaving the city behind our guests arrived at Giske, the famous birth place of Viking King Rollo who was a direct ancestor of William the Conqueror. Following a visit to the Giske chapel which was restored in 1756, our guests continued on to the beautiful island of Godoy and had a chance to relax and unwind in the charming fishing village of Alnes.

For departure this evening our Staff Captain Mark took to the sticks and manoeuvred the Saga Pearl II effortlessly off our berth and out into the shelter of the fjords. Our next and final stop for this cruise is to be the charming Fjord land port of Flam.

Narvik is a town and an ice free seaport in Nordland Fylke county northern Norway, near the head of the Ofotfjorden. It is a major trans-shipment point for iron ore from the rich Kiruna—Gallivare mines in northern Sweden, due to the fact that the Swedish ports on the Gulf of Bothnia are frozen in the winter. The name Narvik was adopted in 1898 and the town was incorporated in 1902 and grew rapidly after the completion of one of the World’s most northerly rail lines. In World War II, Narvik was seized by German forces during their invasion of Norway and important naval battles between British and German forces were fought offshore. An Anglo-French expeditionary force aided in re-capturing the port on the 28th May but was compelled to evacuate it on the 9th June, Owing to the collapse of the front in France. After the war Narvik was rebuilt and resumed its function as an ore port. This export trade and some fishing are its economic mainstays.

On arrival to Narvik our first excursion to depart today was a visit to the ‘Polar Zoo’ at Bardu which is the world’s northernmost wildlife park for predatory animals. Covering a vast area the park is home to the Brown Bear, Wolf, Lynx Deer, Reindeer, Mousse, Musk, Oxen, Arctic Fox and Mountain Fox, to name just a few with the animals able to wander quite freely in large enclosures. As passengers travelled through the wildlife park they admired the changing landscapes as they journeyed north through the towns of Bjerkvik and Salangsdalen. Once arriving passengers were greeted by a local guide who was able to give in-depth information about each animal and answer many questions about their way of life. Refreshments were enjoyed after the guided tour and a chance to have some free time to look around the park before making the return journey back to the ship passing some dramatic scenery.

Our second excursion to depart was a trip on the ‘Ofotbanen Railway’ The main purpose of the railway is to transport iron ore from Sweden to Narvik, where it is then loaded onto ships and exported, a process that has now been happening for over a century. This 26 mile train journey took passengers from the centre of Narvik to Riksgransen, which is just half a mile over the Swedish border. Along the way our passengers were afforded the chance to admire some beautiful scenery looking out across the southern cliffs of Rombaksjford. Hugging the steep rock face the line passes through Katterat and on to Bjornfjell which is the last station on the Norwegian side of the border, sitting 1,600 feet above sea level. Passengers were able to enjoy some refreshments at a local hotel after the train journey before making their return journey back to Narvik by coach.

Our final excursion to leave the ship today was the ‘City Sightseeing and War History’ tour. This trip departed the ship at 14:15pm and took passengers on a city sightseeing tour from the comfort of their coach where they learned about Narvik’s fascinating war history from a local guide. Several important battles were fought in Narvik during World War II and many soldiers lost their lives here. A chance was given to visit the War cemetery where British, French, German, Norwegian and Polish soldiers were buried. An in depth story was told about the War in chronological order at the compact War Museum which passengers visited next before rejoining the coach and returning back to the pier.

We set sail from Narvik shortly before 7pm. Due to construction work at the forward end of the berth and shallow water aft a certain amount of ‘sideways thrust’ was applied to the Saga Pearl II on departure in order to ensure we cleared the obstructions at either end before I completed a tight turn to starboard and we proceeded into the Ofotfjorden once more.
As we cruised south our guests had the opportunity to make their way into the Discovery Lounge for Cabaret Showtime with the fantastic sounds of BBC Radio 2 Recording artist Mr Geoff Taylor with “Songs from the Great Crooners”.

On sailing from Alta, and following a discussion with our Norwegian Pilots, I opted to take the inside route through the Fjords to Tromso. This afforded our Passengers with not only calm sailing conditions but also some truly stunning views as we altered our course to a mostly southerly direction. Tromso is the largest Norwegian town north of the Arctic Circle. Troms County includes the adjacent mainland; Tromsoy Island and is linked to the mainland by a bridge and the town is served by an airport and is a starting point and support base for arctic expeditions.

As we approached the berth the Staff Captain Mark and myself made our way out onto our open Bridge wings to complete the ‘parking’ and were duly greeted by a shower. ‘Docking showers’ as they’re known in the trade are not uncommon but this was not rain, heavy snow fell as the first of our mooring lines were sent ashore turning Tromso into something of a Winter Wonderland. I had thought this might cause a few of our guests to reconsider venturing ashore-not a bit of it. As I stood on the quayside to wave off the morning tours many passengers thanked me for organising the snow and one or two were keen to throw snowballs-I guess we’re all big children at heart!

The first of our excursions leaving the ship today was the Overview of Tromso tour. This 3 ½ tour began with a short drive to the Tromso Museum where passengers enjoyed a guided tour and learnt about the challenges facing the native Sami people as they struggled to preserve their way of life. Continuing then with a drive past Lake Prestvatn and the meteorological institute, as well as the world renowned Northern Lights Observatory. A chance was then given to pass by the place where Hitler’s Tirpitz was finally sunk by British Lancasters in November 1944 and discovered the modern architecture of the breathtaking Arctic Cathedral. A cable car ride was then enjoyed up mount Storsteinen for a stunning bird’s eye view of the city and its surroundings before returning back to the ship.

Our second excursion to leave the ship today was the popular Reindeer Sledding and Sami Experience tour. Departing the pier passengers drove to the other side of Troms Island and then across the 1335 yard long Sandnessund Bridge to Whale Island where the Tromso friluftsenter is situated, a journey of approximately half an hour. Upon arrival passengers were greeted by their Sami host who explained about a little about the centre and activities that were on offer. Passengers were then taken to a small herd of specially trained reindeers that were ready to take them all on an old fashioned sled ride, apparently Rudolph was not present. During the next half hour passengers travelled quietly through the pristine Norwegian winter landscape, hearing nothing but the jingle of the ‘reindeers’ bells as they meander sedately along. After the reindeer experience Passengers were able to enjoy a nice coffee and Bidos, a traditional Sami meal consisting of reindeer meat in a lavvo tent. The local guide then told stories about the Sami people, their history and way of life and the art of lasso throwing which passengers were able to try out themselves before returning back to the ship.

Our final excursion leaving the ship in the afternoon was a trip to the Polar Museum & Polaria. This interesting excursion took passengers over to Troms Island to visit the Polar museum located in an old customs warehouse dating from 1830. The museum is home to several fascinating exhibits and displays relating to the early polar expeditions, hunting and trapping. Some free time to explore at passengers own leisure was enjoyed before moving onto the Polaria adventure Centre that opened in 1998, This modern building brings to life the wildlife and environment of the polar regions. Passengers entered a large panoramic cinema to watch films about the Aurora Borealis and Arctic Wilderness which took them on an airborne trip along the west coast of Spitsbergen. Walking then afterwards along the Arctic trail to experience firsthand some elements of Arctic nature, including a snowstorm, the tundra and the Northern Lights. A trip to the Aquarium was next to see pools that were brimming with aquatic life and a chance to see some bearded seals and fish from Barents Sea’s before returning back to Saga Pearl II.

Back onboard some of our Crew had organised an impromptu ‘Snowman Building Competition’ some of the entries were a tad.....artistic I think we’ll call it. Nevertheless great fun was had by all and I’ve attached a picture of the winner.
We continue south now, but still north of the Arctic Circle towards our next port of call Narvik.

Following a relaxing day at sea as the Saga Pearl II cruised north through the fjords and into the Arctic Circle, we arrived at the port, which for so many, was undoubtedly the highlight of the cruise-Alta. I berthed Saga Pearl II shortly before 3pm on Monday the 19th March and we are to remain alongside until the evening of Wednesday the 21st March. The approach to the berth in Alta is an interesting one in that the berth is exceedingly close to the end of the runway at Alta airport and indeed clearance must be sought from the Control Tower at the airport before the approach is made as I had no intention of distracting a pilot as he was on ‘long final’.

Alta sits at the mouth of the top of Altafjord and is made up of three villages-Bukta, Elvebakken and Bossekop, where the indigenous Sami people used to hold their bi-annual market. The nearby town of Kafjord is also well known as it was where one of the world’s largest battleships “The Tirpiz” was based during World War II and was the German headquarters for the North West. About 13 miles out of the city centre stands one of Alta’s better known modern attractions the Alta Igloo Hotel. This 30 bedroom hotel was first constructed in the year 2000 and has been built here every year since built out of ice and snow. The hotel is open for three months while the weather is cold enough to prevent it from melting away.

Throughout our extended stay there were a myriad of tours available including dog sledding, a snowmobile safari and reindeer sledding. Our passengers also had the chance to visit, or indeed spend a night in the Igloo Ice Hotel and of course travel to a viewpoint in order to, fingers crossed, catch a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis.

The first excursion to leave the ship following our arrival was an overnight at the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel. This allowed the more adventurous of our guests the opportunity to stay overnight at the magical ice built Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel. A short 30 minute coach journey through the countryside brought passengers to the famous Ice Hotel. Upon arrival passengers were met by Sorrisniva who was the local tour host giving passengers a little bit of history regarding the hotel which is rebuilt every winter. Passengers enjoyed a welcome drink and were able to take an in depth look around the hotel before being served a choice of a two course dinner either locally sourced reindeer or salmon. After dinner passengers had the chance to enjoy bright blue vodka from the ice bar where even the glasses are made of ice. The hotel is also well placed for spotting the magical Aurora Borealis or ‘Northern Lights’, and during the evening passengers had the chance to walk around the surrounds of the hotel to catch sight of the dazzling colourful display in the skies. When it was time to retire the private igloo bedrooms certainly offered a memorable end to the night, with reindeer fur lined bed and warm sleeping bags making the -4 degrees temperature much more comfortable. The following morning there was a chance to enjoy a sauna and buffet breakfast in the restaurant before making their way back to Alta by coach and the warmth of Saga Pearl II.

The next excursion to leave the ship was the hunting for the Aurora Borealis tour. This enchanting excursion gave the passengers a chance to see the amazing natural phenomena of the Aurora Borealis or ‘Northern Lights’. After enjoying an early dinner on board the ship passengers attended an interesting lecture by their expert guide. As a group they planned and decided on the best location for viewing the Northern Lights that evening based on the meteorological forecasts. Passengers then boarded there coaches and travelled to their selected spot, far away from any light pollution. A camp fire was available at the spot out in the wilderness as everyone was in search for the natural phenomenon and colourful display of light created by emission of photons in the Earth’s upper atmosphere. Warm drinks and snacks were also served here as the guide gave some useful tips on how to take good photographs of the light phenomena.

Throughout our stay in Alta we were treated to some truly spectacular displays of the Aurora both at the viewpoints and indeed on the ship. I purposely choose to delay our sailing time from Alta on the last evening in order that we might catch a final glimpse of the Northern Lights-we were not disappointed. As I stood on the Bridge making ready for sailing the sky above us erupted into the unmistakable colours of the Aurora and the audible gasps of those guests on the open decks were heard around the ship. How truly lucky we are...............

Andalsnes is a gateway to the rugged wilderness of the Romsdalsfjord. Known as the ‘village between the mountains and the fjords’ it typifies Norway’s striking beauty with its setting on a promontory lined by alps and set at the mouth of the Ruama River. The town itself is tucked under the lofty mountain peaks, backed by lush green scenery. Nearby is the impressive Trollveggen, or ‘Troll Wall’, which at 6,000 feet is Europe’s highest vertical cliff face and often topped by cloud.
As I mentioned previously this was to be my first ever call to this typically Norwegian fjord settlement. I remembered well the inaugural cruise of the Saga Pearl II two years ago when we were scheduled to call here, however on departing Bergen a phone call was received from our local agent advising us that due to extreme snow fall we would have to divert to the town of Molde. A different story this year and always pleasant to add another port to my ‘visited list’.

The first of our exciting excursions to depart the ship today was at 08:15am and visited the town of Molde and the Atlantic Ocean Road. This full day scenic tour began with a drive along the southern side of the beautiful Romsdalsfjord, before boarding a ferry which took passengers from Vestnes to the town of Molde whilst enjoying some stunning panoramic views. A Visit was then paid to the Romsdal Open Air Museum, one of the largest provincial museums in Norway. A folk dancing group in colourful national costume entertained all the passengers before continuing to the lovely oceanfront fishing village of Bud where a spectacular buffet lunch was served for everyone to enjoy. After lunch passengers drove along the Atlantic Ocean Road by coach. This five mile stretch of bridges and embankments jumps from islet to islet across the boundless sea, passing an array of beautiful ocean scenery dotted with skerries and islets. Passengers returned to Andalsnes alongside the northern side of the fjord and re joined a ferry at Solsnes for the return crossing to make their way back to the ship.

Our second and third excursion’s to leave the ship today was the trip on the fascinating Rauma Railway. Our passengers had the opportunity to step onboard the scenic Rauma railway train to ride through some of the most spectacular mountain formations in Norway. Throughout the journey passengers were able to disembark the train to take photographs of the dramatic scenery. The journey took passengers on a course of the Rauma River, ascending the Romsdal valley and passing the Horn of Romsdal and the ‘Troll Wall’ mountain face. Continuing then and passing many waterfalls and bridges and also riding through two ‘turning tunnels’ which allow the train to ascend further up into the valley, Crossing then over the Kylling Bridge from where there is a dramatic view of the river flowing into a canyon below. Making a transport change shortly after at Bjorli Station passengers took a coach drive through one of Norway’s most beautiful valley’s surrounded by impressive peaks rising straight up from the valley floor. A chance to take a short pause at the Slettafossen waterfall viewpoint and get a closer look at the famous ‘Troll Wall’ before returning back to the ship just in time for lunch.

The final excursion to leave the ship this afternoon was the Scenic Trollstigen tour. This 2 ½ hour tour gave passengers the chance to enjoy a drive through the Isterdal Valley and visit a vantage viewpoint at the foot of the Trollstigen or ‘troll Path’, a great achievement in engineering which was opened in 1936. The harsh winter conditions means the road only opens to traffic in the summertime. A chance to sample some of the local refreshments and cakes were enjoyed by all at the Trollstigen Guest House where passengers could take a stroll in the mountain air or simply browse in the souvenir shop. Afterwards making their way back to the base of the stunning ‘Troll Wall’ and seeing this impressive feature of nature passengers made their way back to ship.

Once all the passengers were back on board we slipped gently off our berth and ahead of us was a jam packed evening of entertainment starting with the Dovetail Quartet at 6:15pm in our Discovery Lounge presenting “Fjords, Trolls and Vikings” - celebrating the great Norwegian composer Grieg along with other classics including the meditation from Thais.

Through in the Shackletons Bar we had Team Trivia with our cruise Staff Kate for a chance to test the brain with some fun general knowledge and Cabaret Showtime this evening was West End singing sensation Mr Phillip Browne who entertained all the passengers with his delectably smooth and soulful voice-a real treat.

Finally to celebrate St Patricks Day, Mike our Cruise Director led everyone in a St Patricks Day themed Disco through in the Shackletons Bar, where many danced the night away until the wee small hours..............

Greetings Ladies and Gentlemen, it’s a delight to be back onboard the Saga Pearl II following my two month break. As is the norm, the first few hours onboard always appear somewhat hectic with our Ships staff hurriedly completing their list of duties as we bid farewell to our guests and make all the preparations to welcome the new.

My time was spent completing my handover with Captain Philip Rentell and then overseeing an inspection from our colleagues at the UK Maritime and Coastguard agency. I’m happy to report that having been put through their paces both the Saga Pearl II and her Crew were given the ‘all clear’ and it seemed like no time at all before I was standing on the Bridge wing once more giving the order to ‘let go’ as we cast off from our berth in Southampton setting sail for our first port of call on our voyage to Norway as we go in search of the Northern Lights.

Our first destination was the popular port of Bergen - Norway’s second largest city. As we arrived alongside at around 8:00am, following what was a most pleasant trip north through the North Sea, I was reminded again why this port is so popular to many cruise ships from all over the world; it is the general flavour of this city which appeals.

Offering typical Norwegian charm, history and culture, Bergen is home to many medieval buildings and a whole series of interesting museums, as well as being surrounded by seven mountains, and enjoying shelter to the north and west by a series of straggling islands. Although Bergen is a major industrial port with steel manufacturing, processed food, forest products and fishing continuing to underpin the economy, it remains easy going and laid back. The cities amenities were only a 15 minute bus journey away from the ship and shuttle bus service was provided for those wanting to explore Bergen independently and with ease.

As usual our shore excursions were plentiful today, the first one leaving the ship this morning was ‘A taste of Hardanger’ tour. This tour provided the perfect chance to go sightseeing around the beautiful Hardangerfjord. Taking a short orientation drive through Bergen past the fish and flower markets, leaving the city behind passengers took a scenic journey through a variety of landscapes following the Hardangerfjord and passed through quaint market towns along the way to Nordheimsund.

After passing the Kvamskogen Mountain Plateau and Fossen Bratte Waterfall passengers had the chance to pause at a second waterfall Steinsdalsfossen, Where you can actually walk behind the curtain of water without getting wet. Continuing after to the small farming hamlet of Fykse passengers were able to enjoy some refreshments in one of the old barn houses and sample some of the delicious apple cake made locally from freshly grown fruits whilst being entertained by a fiddler who gave a short performance of the Hardanger fiddle, the traditional instrument of the region before making a journey back to Bergen.
 
‘Bergen City Highlights’ was the second tour to leave the ship this morning. This tour again offered a splendid overview of the city, as well as a ride on the funicular, up to Mount Floyen for some breathtaking views and finally stopping at the Old Bergen Museum to experience the typical 18th Century architecture.

Our last excursion to depart the ship today was the ‘Panoramic City Tour’ this panoramic excursion started with a drive through ‘Sandy Bay’ where you could see many charming white wooden buildings built in traditional Bergen style. A chance to take a funicular ride to the top of Mount Floyen one of the seven mountains that surround Bergen for a bird’s eye view of the city below was absolutely spectacular. 

Leaving the views behind and re boarding the coach passengers had the chance to see more of the beautiful city and passing St Johns Church and many more charming old buildings. All aboard today was at 3:30pm and once everyone was accounted for and our two Norwegian pilots were onboard, our gangway was duly hoisted and we departed our berth heading north for our next port of call, which was to be a new one for me, Andalsnes.

Our run down to Alesund from Narvik covered 539 nautical miles, most of which was within the outer fjords and thus in relatively sheltered waters. This was indeed fortunate as a deep weather system was progressively making its way north east, and we were very much on the edge of its track. We did have to go out into the Norwegian Sea for about three hours, so we felt a certain degree of ‘motion from the ocean’, but we dived back inside in time for everyone to get a good night’s sleep.

By the time the ship rounded the island and approached the port of Alesund the wind was gusting up to forty knots, which would have been very much of a challenge when it came to the docking, but fortunately the direction of the blast was only about 20 degrees or so off the direction in which the berth lay. I amused the pilot when I donned my ski goggles (I don’t ski) to prevent my eyes from watering while manoeuvring from the bridge wing. I believe I had the last laugh though as the others were all wiping tears from their eyes due to the ferocity of the wind. Despite the almost horizontal sleet coming through from time to time we managed to dock without incident, but I had to advise passengers to take great care as they proceeded ashore in case some of them might have been blown over. Wind speed actually reached fifty knots at one stage.

By lunchtime the weather front had passed through, the sun came out and the wind began to abate. The boat tour to Geirangerfjord left on time, as did another boat trip to the islands of Giske and Godoy, and although some of the passengers were looking apprehensive before they left, they all returned safely saying that they’d had a great time. Many though, just took an amble into the town centre, all togged up wearing of course their red jackets. Several of them told me that they had met some German tourists who asked them whether they were part of a ‘red army invasion’.

Two new pilots boarded and we left on schedule, taking the inner route all the way down to just north of Stavanger. I had no intention of having too much ‘rock and roll’ for our return journey to Southampton. 

It was a grey dawn that met us as we approached Narvik, but there was something very powerful in that greyness as the majestic sombre looking peaks looked down on us as we proceeded up Ofotfjorden. We eased past a massive bulk carrier that was heading in towards the iron ore plant; the sole reason that Narvik was built in the first place. Iron ore is brought over from Kiruna in Sweden by great trains carrying over 1000 tons at a time, and they run every two hours every day of the year. The temperature was relatively balmy compared to what we had been used to, around plus 2 degrees, and the not so attractive long johns were finally dispensed with.

Fortunately there were just two places left on the tour that left to take the journey on the Ofotbanen Railway, leaving the ship after breakfast.

First we took a short bus ride through town to the station and joined the train that had just come in from Stockholm. It left, about ten minutes late, and slowly snaked up the side of the Rombaken Fjord, the scene of some considerable naval activity during the Second World War. At one station we had to stop for ten minutes to wait for one of the long iron ore trains to pass at a section which had twin tracks, iron ore has priority. We climbed over 1,600 feet and 26 miles, clinging to the side of the rock face, passing numerous tunnels and snow bridges until we eventually crossed over into Sweden and arrived at Riksgransen. Here the red jackets alighted and headed down a snow-covered path in long file to a ski lodge a short distance below the station. To any of the local tourists up for their winter sport we must have looked a curious sight.

At this time of the day the lodge was fairly empty as I presume the residents were up on the slopes. We had coffee and a bun, and also met the other group of saganauts who had bussed up and were waiting for the down train, which apparently was delayed over an hour. Not only British Rail then.

The trip back was not quite so interesting, but it amazed me how fast the traffic went over ice covered roads. The bus passed through the centre of Narvik, not a particularly pretty place, and even our departure pilot said his Norwegian home was two hours away. ‘Not very convenient for your job’ I exclaimed and then he told me his ‘proper’ home was in France, he worked two weeks on four weeks off, spending the two weeks on in the pilot house in town, and in the winter took the plane down to France during his one month off. Doesn’t sound too stressful to me. He departed a few hours later at the entrance to Ofotfjorden, when two more pilots boarded for the journey down to Alesund.     

The run down to Tromso was at a relatively low speed and we approached the new berth close to the town centre shortly before eight.

The temperature was hovering just below freezing and when the gangway finally went down it was onto a quayside covered in snow and ice. I’m afraid the young local agent might have thought I was somewhat abrupt when I pointed out that I wanted something done about it sooner rather than later.

In the meantime the deck crew went hard at work with shovels and brushes to clear a path to the buses. A large JCB did arrive with a pile of grit in due course, but passengers still had to take great care when they reached the icy pavements in town.

We conducted an extensive crew emergency drill in preparation for an upcoming inspection in Southampton by our colleagues from the Marine and Coastguard Agency, so there was little time for any shore leave.

But it was yet another beautiful day with mainly blue sky, so the passengers luck seemed to continue.

Across the water the modern cathedral of the north looked rather special, particularly with the snow-covered mountains in the background.

After we had departed there was yet more Aurora activity, perhaps not as good as the second night in Alta, but there were a few dedicated red jackets that kitted up and stayed on deck for several hours.

I hope some of the shots taken by our photographers on that second night will be put on this blog, I believe they were taken with a five second time lapse on the shutter speed. 

How spectacular are they? We were really lucky to see the Northern Lights in all their glory - it was well worth it, despite the cold weather!     

The dawn bridge wing temperature on day three was -9 degrees, but yet again the sunrise was simply beautiful. The morning tour red jackets went off with the same enthusiasm while others took the shuttle bus over frozen roads to the apparently ‘baking’ indoor mall in the city centre. Not many purchases though, the prices are just a little more eye watering than the chilly southerly breeze.

A few of us managed to take the afternoon ‘Snowmobile Safari’ which started up at the Ice Hotel. There was of course a modicum of instruction as none of the participants had ever sat on one before yet alone driven one.

I have to say that I was impressed with the ‘pluckiness’ of some of our more mature guests. Off we went at a slow pace, keeping to the right and no less than thirty feet from the one in front.

Eventually we were out onto tracks in open country where the speed gradually built up, and over fairly bumpy icy ground, so it took a fair amount of effort to keep the beast going in the chosen direction. Finally we were above the tree line and onto the exposed white mountain, where snow on the surface was being picked up by the biting wind. Fortunately heated handlebars and the all over padded ‘romper’ suit helped to keep the cold at bay, just.

We stopped for a breather at the top, then set off again, only to stop shortly after when one of the group managed to find a small tree that had inconveniently jumped in front of her. We all eventually returned after what must have been at least an hour and a half, all in one piece, without any frost bitten digits and with the machines still in one piece. Great stuff.

There was sufficient time to spend another half an hour inside the ice hotel, or igloo as it is called, and see just how impressive it is. There are not only sufficient rooms to accommodate 60 guests, a small bar and lounge, but also a wedding chapel and a bridal suite. The ‘roof’ is vaulted and held up by pillars of translucent ice blocks, which themselves have ice carvings set into their construction.

The small bedrooms are entered by a curtained igloo style entrance and have an insulated mattress covered by reindeer skins. The complementary cocktail consisted of Vodka and Blue Curacao, aptly named the ‘Blue Igloo’, and was served in frozen water ‘glasses’.

I was somewhat sceptical that folk could actually have a proper night’s sleep, but our guide told us that the special -40 degree rated sleeping bags are so good that he actually had to wake some people up that morning at 9 o’clock.

We left Alta that evening with the great feeling that we had been to a very special place, and had been incredibly lucky to have had such superb cold and clear weather for the duration of our 48 hour stay.        

The following morning the sun rose over the snow covered mountains in golden but chilly splendour, minus 5 degrees on deck. Some folks had stayed overnight at the Sorrisniva Ice Hotel and came back rather chuffed with themselves, but I’m not sure how much they slept. Others went off in the morning just for a visit, or took trips on snowmobiles, reindeer sled rides, or, as we did in the afternoon, dog sledding. The temperature may have risen a touch during the day, but certainly not above freezing, so red jackets was order of the day, and with as many other layers that could be squeezed on underneath.

We took the dog sledding trip in the afternoon and it was great fun. The dogs knew exactly what was up as soon as the bus arrived, the first sleds were already prepared with six dogs on each and as the first group of red coats approached, a mass barking session started with dogs jumping up and down in their harnesses with excitement. While they literally raced off at a tremendous pace the other group were entertained by the owner who told us he had 84 dogs, all of which were trained from a very early age to become working animals. The following weekend he was competing in a 1000 kilometre race, the toughest in the world, in which the competitors would take at least four days to complete the course and have to look after their own animals, and themselves, without assistance, unless disaster struck of course.

We took the second ride, a charming young Norwegian lady being the handler, standing on the skis at the back. It was a little crazy at times, bouncing along hard ice, hanging on for grim death around corners, trying to miss the overhanging birch and to take photographs at the same time. The dogs carried on at a fast trot, their long tongues hanging out to one side and occasionally dipping their snouts into the snow in order to take in some of the frozen fluid. As they came to an incline they seemed to realise they had to increase their effort and our guide spoke few words.

They worked completely as a team, not reducing their pace, but actually accelerating towards the end, no doubt knowing that ‘home’ was just around the corner. When their work was done they were taken back to their small straw filled kennels where some of them curled up inside with just their heads resting on the entrance, almost casually watching the red coats wandering around taking photographs.

However, when the owner took a bitch out of a large kennel for exercise, they all suddenly came back to instant attention, emitting a cacophony of barking and howling, which only ceased when the cause was hastily led back inside.

A great afternoon was followed by an excellent display of the Aurora during the late evening, when, intermittently, displays of greenish cloud formed rings and moving curtains across the sky. One moment there, seconds later disappeared, a real game of patience and one which only those prepared to hang around long enough were rewarded.     

Late on the evening of the 3rd we caught a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis for the first time. Earlier the ship had passed Bodo and had come out into the Vestfjord, way over to port the jagged peaks of the Lofoten Islands could be seen in the clear moonlit night sky, Venus and Jupiter, both very bright, were low in the west. Our two Norwegian pilots were exchanged for two more as we passed the pilot station at Lodingen and there was a good display shortly after.

 By the time we were passing Tromso the following morning the snow was down to the waterline and in the bright sunshine the scenery was quite majestic, snow covered mountains, isolated communities, and even a mine. Back in 1976 I had been Second Mate on a small cargo ship that came up to northern Norway and the island of Stjernoya in order to load Nepheline Syenite, a mineral used in the making of glass and porcelain. The small jetty, as we passed close by, seemed not to have changed, although in the bright sunlight it looked very different from the dismal November day I remembered all the time ago.

We berthed in Alta just as the sun was setting; the temperature was down to minus 3 degrees, so I was totally wrapped up, including my Chinese fur hat. Fortunately the operation was not too protracted, but two hours later it was a complete dressing up, including two pairs of rather unattractive ‘long johns’, for our three-hour jaunt into the country side to try and see the Northern Lights.

We were deposited at a golf course and left to our own devices. While other stayed close to the lavvu tent and campfire, my wife and I made our way down the fairway, pine trees on either side looking rather ghostly in the bright moonlight. We must have been an amusing spectacle, staggering in the snow which was up to over a foot deep in places. There was some celestial activity to be seen, so the trip could be counted as a modest success, but it was a pleasure to come back to a warm ship, disrobe and finally retire. It was to be the first of two nights in which the ship was to be alongside.

Within two hours of leaving Bergen we were back into the Norwegian Sea, a weather front had passed through during the day so the wind had veered to the north west. During the night wind and sea increased, just enough to make the uninitiated realise we were on a ship and not in a hotel. Fortunately we had passed into the sheltered waters south of Alesund by the time most of our folks woke, and after another sixty miles or so we approached Andalsnes at the head of Romsdalfjord.

The berth was too short to take the whole length of the ship, so it required careful manoeuvring and dextrous finger work on the power leavers to ensure the ship didn’t progress onto the rocks right ahead as it was held alongside long enough to get the stern lines ashore. The weather fortunately was calm, sunny, but rather chilly, so the red coats were all out to observe.

Two more Port State Control officers turned up, having driven all the way from Alesund two hours away, and I don’t think they were too chuffed to find their journey was wasted, and I don’t suppose they were very impressed with their colleagues in Bergen for not having entered the previous day’s inspection onto the computer. While Staff Captain Kosta kept them amused on the bridge with coffee I met a delightful lady named Hilde from the tourist office, looking lovely in Norwegian national dress. She had come down to welcome the ship on its first call and to present a plaque and other odd bits and pieces of tourist paraphernalia. I then nipped back up top to give the port state guys due deference, while Hilde received the full social skills of my wife for a ship tour.

Many of our folks were going off on the scenic 35-mile Rauma Railway journey that follows the Romsdal Valley and passes the Troll Wall mountain face. We took a coach tour in the afternoon that covers some of the same ground into the snow-covered mountains. We stopped to look up at the vertical 3300 feet high Trolveggen, a very impressive mountain that ‘base’ jumpers use to take a plunge from until a number of accidents resulted in the sport being banned, from this particular precipe at least, although the world championship ‘base’ competition is scheduled to take a place a little further up the valley later this year.  Safer plummeting I suppose.

We departed on schedule and continued back out towards the coast and then northwards. The surrounding mountains were covered in snow down to about the three hundred meter level, and the temperature, which had been around five degrees during the day, was forecast to take a dive due to the clear skies above. 

Our two day run through the English Channel and the North Sea was in perhaps surprisingly calm conditions with little wind and only a slight sea. It was, however, mainly overcast with only the odd oil platform to look at from a distance. The welcome cocktail party was quite a fun affair with everyone in that sort of subdued excitement I have seen before when taking a ship into what may be referred to as ‘adventurous’ places. North Norway in February, with well below freezing temperatures, plenty of snow, husky dogs, skidoos and the chance to see the Northern Lights promises to be just a tad exciting, well at least for the passengers, I’m personally not looking for too much excitement. On the first sea day passengers claimed their complementary red cold weather jackets and I alluded to the fact in my cocktail party speech, in a humorous vain of course.

We arrived in Bergen as the cloud was descending; visibility dropped down to a few hundred yards for a while then, as we came alongside, the first of the rain arrived. This is what we often call ‘docking rain’, not so pleasant particularly when it finds that small gap around your neck and starts to creep down your back. Ashore they weren’t so thrilled either and it could have been one of the reasons why one of the linesmen slipped on the wet ground and let go of our after spring rope as it was being hauled ashore. It promptly slipped back into the water and became entangled in the port propeller. Divers were ordered even before we had finished the manoeuvring and they worked all day to cut the offending line away. In the meantime two local Port State Control officials came down and advised us that they were on board to complete a thorough inspection of our safety procedures and equipment.

So all in all a busy day, the inspectors left completely satisfied and the divers eventually finished their work several hours after our scheduled departure time. Passengers of course were completely unaware and went off on their tours or took the shuttle bus, complete with red jacket, which was fortuitous as the rain came in drenching waves for a few hours around lunchtime, eventually clearing by sailing time. The departure was a quick affair and by the time we passed the oil industry support vessels lying nearby, the speed indicator was gradually crawling up the scale.