Saga Pearl II Captain's blog

We had a very good run from Dover down to Southampton across the Bay of Biscay. There was a low-pressure area mid Atlantic that was developing and causing a swell.  I had set off to try and avoid the worst and squeeze between it and the coast along an area of high pressure. We had lovely bright sunshine and a two-metre swell from the west emanating from this low pressure in the Atlantic.

On our second day out, just west of Cape Finisterre, we passed a tug towing one of her majesties warships to the scarp presumably in Turkey. We sailed closer to the ship for the passengers to have a look - it was the old HMS Exeter.

We continued to make good progress. As we turned into the Gibraltar straits, we felt the full force of the levanter with easterly winds blowing at gale force strength.

On approaching the pilot station in Gibraltar on the morning of the September 30, I heard a familiar voice on the radio; it was my good friend and once Captain with Saga, Martin Breen. Martin has now taken up piloting in Gibraltar. We had a catch up while we were berthing the ship - it was good to catch up on old times.

We were all berthed by 8am this morning. We had three tours going out.

The first was an excursion to the Rock which departed at 8:45am. After leaving the port our passengers were driven across the unique runway, built using stones dug from the rock itself by the British Army during the two World Wars. The tour then went on to see the American War Memorial, British Naval Base and Trafalgar Cemetery, before arriving at Europa Point and the only Trinity Lighthouse outside Great Britain. Next the tour continued to the upper Rock area and St Michael’s Cave. The coach then carried on to King Charles V Wall where passengers tried to catch a glimpse of the famous Barbary apes. The tour then finished with some free time for shopping.

For our second excursion of the day, we left the ship at 9:15am. We were off to see the Fortress Gibraltar. This tour began by travelling past the British/Spanish Land Frontier. The driver provided the passengers with an informative overview of Gibraltar’s history. The first stop was Europa Point. Next, it was on to the Nature Reserve and then the tour continued to the Hays Level where the passengers had a guided tour to visit the exhibition. The exhibition displays a collection of photographs illustrating the history of the World War II tunnels. The tour then finished by admiring the views of the east side of the Rock from ‘Jock’s Balcony.’
The final tour was the Dolphin watch. After the passengers departed the ship, it was a short drive to the Dolphin World pleasure cruiser. After setting off into the bay, our guests learnt about the history of the tiny native colony and were given an insight into the marine life of the bay.

For those passengers that didn’t want to go ashore, they could join Rebecca, the duty Cruise Hostess, in some fun activities like table tennis, shuffleboard or even an afternoon quiz.

Martin, Our pilot, was onboard again for departure. Andy Boyd, my staff Captain, took the ship away this afternoon as we set sail for Cagliari, Sardinia. A few hours after departing Gibraltar, we detected our fleet mate Saga Ruby on the radar. After discussion with Captain Steve Angove, we closed the distance on each other and had all the passengers and crew on deck to wave the Ruby past. It’s always nice to see our colleagues as we don't get the opportunity that often. It really was a nice surprise for all.

Before dinner guests could enjoy Martini cocktails out on the open deck in the glorious sunshine while listening to Adam Reece, our resident pianist. Afterwards, guests enjoyed a delectable meal. Those who would prefer to enjoy a classical recital could join the Rivoli String Quartet in the Discovery lounge, or alternatively partake in a fun music quiz with John and Adam in the Shackleton’s.

The evening then continued on into the Sundowner Bar for a dance under the stars. Passengers and cruise staff enjoyed a good old jive out on the open decks.

We had left Waarnemunde and were heading for the Kiel Canal for an arrival at 03.30. However, as the locks were still having essential maintenance being carried out to them, our agent in Kiel informed me that again we could experience delays. I decided to run at full speed for the canal in order to try and minimise any delay.

We arrived at Holtenau Locks at 02.30.

As many people may have been aware, on this cruise we have been raising money for our Saga Charitable Trust to build a well for needy communities overseas. £5000 was needed. Jo Boase, our cruise director and her team, went about raising awareness and money for this. Auctions and prizes such as afternoon tea with the Captain, visits to the bridge for sailaways and various other items were on offer. One mammoth task was the sponsored cycle of the Kiel Canal. It’s a 100km cycle!

At 02.30, I went to the gangway to see my intrepid explorers away. They were Jo Boase, cruise director, Thomas Heinzel, executive chef, Christopher Lack, photographer and manager and Martin Gowlett, my navigating deck officer.  All of them were wrapped up for the frosty morning ahead.

As we sailed out of the lock, I could see the twinkling red lights of the bikes in the distance setting off into the night. I felt a sense of pride at my flock doing this, but also a sense of worry hoping they would be ok.

We had a few delays through the canal, but really the passage was quite quick. I called the team by phone and they were about 40 minutes behind us. When I enquired as to why, apparently they ended up in a field and took a little time to trudge through the mud and climb a fence!

I had thought with Thomas being German speaking, and Martin being ships Navigator, that we may have made a better start. Martin had pointed out to me though, that we aren’t trained in road maps, just sea charts!

Anyway they got going, and dotted back and forth from the south side of the river to the north by ferry and by bridge.
At Rendsburg, Martin’s bike collapsed so he had to be escorted to the finish line by taxi - the other three carried on.
At about 06.00, I called to say we were passing distance marker 30 and they were still 18km behind us so I started to worry about them not finishing. As we were ahead of schedule, I asked the pilot if it came to it could I delay the ship outside the locks to let them catch up - I didn’t want them to fail. As luck would have it, we had a genuine one-and-a-half-hour delay a few miles from Brusbuttel, so the pressure eased. Then around the corner in the distance, the cyclists were seen.

Jo called us on the radio when I was on the bridge wing and said, “Captain, I have never been so pleased to see your little yellow funnel".

I wasn’t sure how to take that.

All the passengers and staff were out on decks to cheer them on. They briefly stopped for a photo shoot before continuing. I told them to grab a cool beer in the bar at Brunsbuttel after their hot journey (I had the vision of the end scene in ‘Ice Cold in Alex’ with the dishevelled parties looking at a nice cool beer, and thought I am sure this is how they feel).

When we finally got to the locks, they were greeted by us all and with special local permission I was able to douse them in champagne.

This was an excellent achievement and a wonderful effort by a great bunch. They raised over £1500 for the ride which meant the overall total raised on the trip was £7500 - such generosity by all.

It was a quick run south across the Gedser Traffic Separation Scheme before we were heading towards Waarnemunde Pilot Station. We embarked the Pilot at 05.00 with the wind rather fresh from the south west. Once inside the harbour the wind eased a little and we turned the ship 180 degrees in the turning basin and were alongside by 06.00.
Warmermunde is a suburb of Rostock and is on the west bank at the mouth of Die Warnow. It was originally a fishing village before becoming a bathing spa. It is now a seaside resort.

We had three tours on offer this morning. The first was very early and it was the ‘Best of Berlin’ tour. This 12-hour tour left at 06.30 and took our passengers to this extraordinary city. The fascinating sights were well worth the long scenic drive from Warnemunde through the lakelands of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. This tour begins in former East Berlin, passing Alexander Platz Square - home of Berlin’s Television Tower. Stopping for photos at the Dome of Berlin on Museum Island, then continuing to Brandenburg Gate and Gendarmenmarkt Square for another photo stop. They then drove through historic Nikolaiviertel and boarded a pleasure cruiser for a sedate cruise along the Spree past sights such as Bellevue Palace, Museum Island, the Chancellery and the Reichstag. A three-course lunch and drinks were served onboard before they disembarked at Charlottenburg Castle. They had a champagne reception on top of the Reichstag while enjoying its cupola and breathtaking views of the city. Finally they passed by Potsdam Square to take a look at the notorious Checkpoint Charlie border crossing before returning to Warnemunde.

The second of our morning tours to leave today was ‘Fischland the Forgotten World’. This scenic excursion begins with a drive east along the coastline, passing woods, fields and beautiful old fishing villages. Our passengers embarked a boat for a trip into Varpommern Lagoon Area National Park. Here the shallow coastal waters of the Baltic Sea mix with freshwater from a number of small creeks, creating bodies of water called ‘Bodden’ - a habitat unique to this part of Germany.  The Bodden mini cruise takes you past the Putnitz Peninsula, where the German Navy trained its pilots until 1945.  Our passengers then enjoyed a cup of coffee and a piece of German cake onboard, whilst the Captain told our passengers interesting facts about the National Park. Today the peninsula is a recreation area. Swans and seabirds are seen in large numbers here. They disembarked in a beautiful little fishing port with traditional thatched cottages. Our passengers were then able to have some free time where they could relax and enjoy the local ambience. They could also sample some of the freshly smoked fish before rejoining the coach for the drive back along the peninsula to Warnemunde.

The last tour to leave was ‘Rostock and the KGB’.  To start this tour our passengers enjoyed an hour-long cruise along the River Warnow to Rostock. Tea, coffee and cake were offered along the way before starting a guided walking tour. The tour takes them into the town’s distinctive red brick architecture and hanseatic ambience. The tour then took them past the university, New Market, the beautiful city hall, the remnants of the old city walls at Kropliner Gate and Stone Gate, as well as Fischerbastion and the Convent of the Holy Cross - home to the cultural history museum. There was also the opportunity to visit the Stasi Museum - the interrogation centre of the KGB of East Germany. After this, and having enjoyed some free time in Rostock to explore the shops and cafes, our passengers visited St Mary’s Church at the Goat Market where they were able to take pictures of a unique astronomical clock - one of Rostock’s best-known landmarks.

The final tour to leave departed in the afternoon and was the ‘Molli and the Minster’. The tour started by driving through the countryside of former East Germany. Our passengers stopped in Bad Doberan at the 700-year old Minster, a red brick church surrounded by beautiful parkland and houses with relics dating back as far as the 14th and 15th centuries. Following this, they left Bad Doberan onboard the Molli narrow gauge steam train and enjoyed a 30-minute journey to the beach resort of Kuhlungsborn. Having arrived at their destination, our guests were able to relax with coffee and cake before exploring the romantic beach promenade and enjoying a stroll along the seafront.

We welcomed our passengers back onboard for 19.30, then shortly after set sail for our transit through the Kiel Canal.

To begin this evening’s entertainment, our guests could join Kayleigh, our assistant cruise director in Shackleton's to enjoy a fun general knowledge quiz.

After dinner we invited The Landolfi Trio back to the Discovery Lounge for another wonderful Classical concert. For this evening's cabaret show time, our guests enjoyed The Gail Davies Production Company’s performance of Musical Memories.
For those who wished to stay up a little later, they could join multi-instrumentalist, Kenny Martyn for some late night jazz, followed by a nightcap with Adam Reece as he entertained until the early hours.

At 05.30 we approached the Drogden Channel, which is deep enough for our good ship to approach Copenhagen from the south. On Rose and Ruby we have to travel 180 miles around the north, so it helps greatly cutting this distance down. Also pilotage is not compulsory for Copehagen, so having been here many times and having an excellent bridge team of officers, as well as all the information required, I took the ship up the channel and alongside myself.

We have to sail at speed up the channel as there is not too much water under the keel, and going too fast can cause the ship to handle a bit sluggishly, so we sail at an appropriate speed. Also when large ships pass us by in the narrow channel, we have to slow a little more as ships develop pressure fields around them so can affect the manoeuvre of ships. So being aware of this we take the appropriate action. Once up at the harbour entrance, we requested clearance and we sailed into the port, swung around and moved astern all the way up the quay to berth at the south end of Langlinea Pier.

Copenhagen is the capital and largest city of Denmark. It is a major centre for culture, business, media and science. This is due to its strategic location and excellent infrastructure. Copenhagen has repeatedly been recognised as one of the cities with the best quality of life. It is also considered one of the world’s most environmentally friendly cities.

The first tour to leave was the ‘city tour and harbour cruise’. The passengers travelled to Gammel Strand and the fish market here they embarked a canal boat for a memorable 50-minute cruise along the city’s waterways and through the harbour. Passengers took in the views as they sailed down the narrow canals past Christiansborg Palace and the Nyhavn canal area into open harbour and on to the Langelinie area to see the Little Mermaid and the brand new Opera House that opened at the beginning of 2005. The tour then continued by coach to the places unreachable by boat. We travelled past the Nyhavn Canal District, Christiansborg Palace, the busy pedestrian area of Stroget, the Botanical Gardens and the 17th century citadel of Kastellet.

Our last morning tour to leave today was ‘Copenhagen by foot’. This tour gave our passengers the chance to experience the delights of Copenhagen on foot. They started the walk along the waterfront where they found the enchanting Little Mermaid, which has been a symbol of Copenhagen for decades. They continued through Churchill Park with the Anglican Episcopalian Church, the resistance museum and the beautiful Gefion Fountain. Next they followed the shore down to Amalie Garden and the Amalienborg Palace - the residence of the Royal Family. They then went across Palace Square and continued to Nyhavn, they charming quayside area where Hans Christian Andersen lived. Passengers stopped for a quick refreshment before heading down to the centre of Copenhagen and King’s New Square where they found the Royal Theatre.

Our final tour left in the afternoon. It went to the seaside town of Dragoer. This scenic tour took our guests to Dragoer, one of Denmark’s oldest and quaintest fishing villages set on Amager Island and lapped by blue waters of the Oresund. Full of character, the state of Dragoer is well preserved due to the fact that conservation work was started very early in 1934. The guide took our guests on a leisurely stroll through the cobblestone back streets of this historic village to the bustling harbour. There was  enough free time for the guests to explore the village, some of the small handicraft shops that line the main street or admire views of Oresund Bridge, which has connected Copenhagen with the Swedish town Malmo since 2000. Before heading back to the ship, tea, coffee and a Danish pastry was served at a harbour front hotel.

We sailed at 18.00 and proceeded back the way we came this morning passing by the impressive Oresund Bridge to port. Also we had to contact Copenhagen airport to let them know our time of passing the airport runway as the planes get rather low on final approach.

Tonight’s entertainment started after dinner with James, one of our cruise staff. James took charge of the team trivia quiz in Shackleton’s. This was followed by cabaret showtime with concert pianist, Antony Peebles,playing works by Schubert, Rachmaninoff and Grieg. The entertainment then continued into the Shackleton’s bar for late night cabaret and cocktails with our cocktail pianist, Adam Reece.

We embarked our pilot ten miles north of the harbour at 06.00 and made our way towards Tallin - one of my favourite cities. During a turbulent history, the people of Tallinn frequently united to face a common threat. First it was the Danes who took the settlement in the 13th century.

Tallinn became a flourishing trading centre as a member of the Hanseatic League and went on to serve many masters. Swedish, German and Russian occupiers all left their mark. Finally at the end of World War l, an Estonian state was established with Tallinn as the Capital. After World War ll it became a reluctant member of the Soviet Union, until independence was declared in 1991.

We arrived at the Harbour entrance at 07.15 as requested by the Port. The port is a very busy ferry port with ferries running continuously to Helsinki, St Petersburg and Stockholm.

Similar to air traffic control, we had a slot for berthing. I sailed the ship into the harbour, swung her around and manoeuvred ‘athwartships’ or ‘sideways’ onto the berth. Another beautiful day confronted us.

With three tours on offer for our passengers today, many chose the first to leave,which was ‘Tallinn Old Town’. Throughout this excursion our passengers were able to discover the highlights of Tallinn's old town - an UNESCO World Heritage Site. They then made their way into the upper old town to see the castle, Russian Orthodox Church of Alexander Nevsky and the 13th century gothic dome church. From the terraces of the upper town there are some magnificent views across the gable rooftops and soaring spires. From here the passengers strolled along long and short leg streets to the 15th century Blackheads Fraternity House to watch a traditional folk show. We were offered refreshments like tea and cake.

The second tour to leave this morning was ‘Tallinn highlights’. Our passengers travelled through the cultural centre of Tallinn and along the medieval city walls that encompass the old town. They then disembarked the coach at Nun’s Gate and could walk past the transfiguration church to the 15th century Blackheads Fraternity House to see an Estonian folk show and enjoy refreshments. The walking tour then continued past Pikk Street and across the town hall square, where you can view the most important sites of the old town and visit St Catherine’s Arts and Crafts Centre. After they boarded the coach they continued along the main thoroughfare towards the central park of Kadriorg. This was founded by Peter the Great and is the setting for the Baroque Palace of Catherine.

Our last tour to leave today was ‘Panoramic Tallinn. This three-hour tour took our passengers right into the heart of the city towards Cathedral Hill, stopping at the Tall Herman Tower, one of the three remaining towers of the Knights of the Sword Castle. From nearby Cannon Tower they could admire the panoramic view of Tallinn’s upper town, with its numerous churches and spires. The tour then continued towards Kadriorg Park and the Baroque Place designed as a summer residence for Peter the Great. As they drove through the park they paused at the song festival grounds and a natural amphitheatre with a capacity for 15,000 people - making it a perfect venue for Estonia’s National song festivals. After stopping at a seaside restaurant for refreshments and folk music, the tour continued on to St Birgits’s Convent to see the best example of local limestone architecture.

Again we had a sailing slot of 17.15 and we slid out the harbour and turned north towards our next port, Copehagen, but a day at sea to relax after a few busy days in port.

Tonight’s entertainment started with a team trivia quiz hosted by one of our cruise staff Charlotte, followed by a cocktail party in the Discovery Lounge for all our newcomers to Saga and cruising. It's a chance to meet all the new friendly faces joining Saga for the first time.

After dinner the entertainment continued with a classical concert by ‘The Landolfi Trio’, followed by cabaret showtime and our talented Gail Davies Production Company in ‘Love Sweet Love’. The entertainment didn’t stop there as we invited cruise director Jo, assistant cruise director Kayleigh and cruise staff from our cruise department under the spot light in Shackletons to show all the hidden talent onboard. We sang songs from the past and lastest ones too. Any customers that were in good spirits could enjoy the rest of the evening with our cocktail pianist before retiring to bed.

After weaving our way east along the Gulf of Finland, around the islands of Ostrov Gogland and O Seskar, and having been called by the Russian Coastguard persistently through the night for reporting purposes, we arrived at the Pilot station at 0500.The nights were drawing in and Autumn was approaching as it was pitch black. Only a few months ago on my last call it was pleasantly light!! We made our way down the channel, passing Khroshdadt, the old Harbour for the once proud Baltic Fleet, who have since been relocated. There is a number of rusting ships, trawlers and a few submarines but it is in a sorry state sadly. However after the many years of sailing into St Petersburg, they are now putting the finishing touches to their once dormant lock gate system. Now it is very impressive, built to keep the water levels at a constant in the harbour. Today’s transit was going to be a little more challenging than normal. I had been contacted by our Agent, when I was still on leave to tell me that the Port had stationed 2 wooden floating pontoons at the approach to our berth at the English Embankment. This is a trial as they want to build a new bridge across the river and these pontoons are situated where the more permanent concrete parapets are going to be. I was told it was a 70 metres wide gap, but it turned out to be somewhat narrower, being about 40 metres so we didn’t have much room.

Anyway conditions were favourable and the river was not running at strength and there was no wind so we sailed through but it is angled at the most awkward direction as you end up going across the river, with the current on your starboard bow rather than keeping the bow into the river stream as would be the norm. Because of the manoeuvrability of this ship I was able to adjust but with the pilots we all agreed this was not a good idea and they wanted me to give feedback to the port about this. Anyway, we approached our berth, the best berth in town, right at English Embankment and were soon all fast alongside the pontoons on a beautiful crisp morning at 0830. For most of our passengers this port was one of the highlights of this cruise. We will be spending 3 days here so this gives our passengers enough time to explore St Petersburg and really experience all the city has to offer. St Petersburg is located on the Neva River at the head of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea. The city was originally called Petrograd from 1914 to 1924 and Leningrad from 1924 to 1991. It is often referred to as Petersburg and is informally known as Piter. This relatively young city has packed a lot into its 300 years, and is brimming with historic treasures including ornate palaces, beautiful gardens and world-renowned museums. The city is often referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as it has many bridges over the River Neva, an important part of the city.

With three days to explore the wonders of St. Petersburg our passengers could choose from 18 tours as well as the option of an exclusive bespoke car service which was a perfect way for our independent travellers not taking part in a tour to see the sights. Some of the most popular tours were the all day and evening tours which really gave our guests the chance to experience St Petersburg and Russia at its finest.

One of the most spectacular tours was the ‘Splendours of St. Petersburg’. This a 9 hour full day Panoramic guided tour starting with a short drive to the historical centre of the city. A slow drive along the embankment which took them to Decembrists’ Square, dominated by the ‘Bronze Horseman’ monument to Peter the Great. A photo stop at St Isaac’s Cathedral brought our passengers to Palace Square and past the Winter Palace. After, there was a photo stop at the Rostral Columns to photograph the beautiful panorama of the Neva River and Peter and Paul Fortress. The next stop on the tour was at Peter and Pauls Fortress, the prison which was home to a roll-call of Revolutionists from Dostoevsky to Trotsky, and within the wall on the fortress is the Cathedral of Peter and Paul. Next, as they drove along the Nevsky Prospect Boulevard, they could really feel the city’s contemporary pulse. For lunch they stopped at one of the best downtown restaurants, it included a glass of Russian Champagne and a great lunch. After lunch they then spent the rest of the afternoon wondering around and exploring the magnificent halls and staterooms of the Winter Palace on a guided tour.

We also offered something different for our passengers with the ‘Gulf of Finland Panoramic Drive’ a chance for them to get out of the city and see something different. This panoramic tour took our passengers off the beaten track, and introduced them to one of the most picturesque areas outside St. Petersburg: the Resort District. This is located on the Karelian Isthmus along the northern shore of the Gulf of Finland. The first part of the tour took them on a journey through St. Petersburg towards its north western boundary on the Lower Highway that lies along the Gulf coast. They pasted through the resort areas of Sestroretsk, Solnechnoye, Komarovo, Repino and Zelenogorsk. Before 1917 this whole area was part of the Grand Duchy of Finland, ruled by the Grand Dukes. Even though Finland was at the time part of the Russian Empire, there was a state boarder and a valid passport was needed to cross. One of the highlights of Zelenogorsk was the beautiful Cathedral of the Icon of Our Lady of Kazan; a photo stop was made her before making their way back to the ship.

We also offered a variety of half day tours, such as Peterhof Parks & Fountains, Spilled Blood Cathedral, Shopping & Canal Cruise and Peter & Paul Fortress & Canal Cruise.

As we had two nights here in St Petersburg we offered two evening tours. One each night which was perfect for those passengers who wanted to experience it all.

On the first night our guests were able to enjoy ‘An Evening of Ballet’ which was the more popular of the two evening tours. Recognised around the world, the Russian Classical Ballet was able to be enjoyed by our passengers on this mesmerising tour. Our guests made their way the Aurora Hall, a well-equipped and comfortable theatre with excellent views for every spectator. Accompanied by the State Symphony Orchestra, the dancers wowed our passengers and impressed with their skill, poise and talent during the course of an unforgettable evening.

On the second evening our guests spent ‘An Evening of Folklore’. Our guests travelled to the Carnival Concert Hall in the heart of St Petersburg to enjoy a wonderful evening of lively Russian folkloric song and dance. The magnificent performance was made up from traditional songs and dances used during celebrations from all over Russia, combined with classical aspects of ballet and modern dance. During the interval our guests were treated to champagne, vodka and snacks to help make this an evening to remember.

Looking at the evening and daytime activities our passengers had the choice of lots to do if they didn’t go ashore with Resty our Cruise Staff organising play throughout the day with games such as shuffleboard, golf putting and the Wii game to name but a few. In the evening after an early dinner passengers could enjoy ‘The King’s Speech’ in the Discovery Lounge or join in with a fun Name that tune quiz with our Cruise Director Jo Boase and our Cocktail pianist Adam Reece at the piano. For those returning later on in the evening a Special Late Night Buffet was provided in the Dining Room.

For our Second night in St. Petersburg we invited the The Landolfi Trio to perform “A Classical Selection” including works by Tchaikovsky, Monti & Copland in the Discovery Lounge. The evening’s entertainment did not end there with a night to remember out on the open deck dancing the night away with the cruise staff under the Stars. Once again for those passengers returning from the Folklore excursion a Special Late Night Buffet was provided in the Dining Room.

As we approached our final day in St. Petersburg Cruise Staff Charlotte hosted all kinds of daytime activities onboard for those who chose to stay with us and we asked that all passengers were aboard for 5.30pm. For sailing, we had some guests on the bridge who had won a bridge visit in our auction. This cruise we have been raising money for the Saga Charitable Trust and our passengers have been very generous in their donations. We swung off the berth, back through the “trial bridge” and down the river. A straight forward procedure and after 3 hours we had disembarked the pilots and set course for Tallin., Estonia.

For this evening’s entertainment we began with Easy Listening from our cocktail pianist Adam Reece.

Following dinner guests could enjoy a general knowledge quiz at tonight’s Team Trivia hosted in Shackletons by our assistant cruise director Kayleigh.

Showtime this evening began with a Classical Recital from our cocktail pianist Adam Reece including works by Beethoven, Mozart, Debussy & Grieg as well as a few surprises. The evening’s entertainment carried on with Variety Showtime presenting entertainers Geoff Taylor and Suzanne Godfrey before inviting back the Saga Pearl II Orchestra and the gentlemen hosts to dance the night away until late.

For those wanting a nightcap they could join Adam Reece our cocktail pianist in Shackleton’s Bar for Late Night Cabaret & Cocktails.

Our final port of call on our ‘Nordic Discovery’ cruise saw us visit the port of Bergen, Norway. The weather just kept getting better and better this cruise. Bergen is normally known as the Rain Capital of Europe, with over 300 days of rain a year, thankfully today it did not live up to that name!

Our first tour leaving the ship this morning on arrival was ‘Iconic Norway’. This tour first took our Passengers to Vos, a popular winter resort beside a peaceful lake. Here our Guests boarded a train to experience one of Europe’s most impressive and exciting rail journeys, which took them through valleys, past rivers and under mountains. They changed trains at Myrdal and then descended the famous Flamsbana railway line to the tiny village of Flam. The coach journey that followed provided incredible mountain scenery as well as hairpin bends and a drive down Norway’s steepest road, the famous Stalheimskleivene. Following lunch there was a chance to visit Oppheim Lake and Tvinde Waterfall before returning to Vos for some free time to explore the town for themselves.

‘Mount Floyen Hike’ was the next tour to leave and this guided excursion began by passing the fortress of Bergenhus with the Coronation Hall and along the Bryggen, with all the old wooden merchants buildings that once belonged to the German merchants of the Hanseatic League. After a five minute 1000ft funicular trip, there was the chance to enjoy spectacular views of Bergen before setting off on their hike towards Skomakerdiket Lake. Eventually they reached the highest point of Mount Floyen at 1850 ft above sea level to enjoy the spectacular views and scenery.

Our last trip to leave today left in the afternoon, this took our Passengers to see ‘Images of Grieg’. This interesting tour reveals the legacy of Bergen’s most famous son, the world renowned composer Edvard Grieg, who was born in the city in 1843. Our Passengers began by travelling into Bergen’s suburbs passing King Hakon’s Hall, the Rosenkrantz Tower, and the colourful Bryggen’s area and fish market. Next they continued to the village of Paradise to visit Troldhaugen, which was Grieg’s home from 1885 until his death in 1907. They were able to enjoy a guided tour of the beautifully furnished villa which has been preserved just as it was when the composer died with many of his possessions, including his Steinway piano, still in situ. Then they attend an exclusive piano recital of Grieg’s music followed by some free time to explore the exhibition and garden, or they could visit the tombs of Edvard and his wife Nina that overlook pretty Nords Lake, before heading back to the ship.

All aboard today was 4.30pm and shortly afterwards I made an important announcement to the Passengers. Throughout the day I had been in contact with our Colleagues at Saga Head Office and indeed the Pilot Station in our intended port of call, Dover. As I’m sure you’re all well aware there is some truly ferocious weather set to hit the UK over the next day or two, so ferocious in fact that if the weather remained as forecast it would be out with the safety limits of Dover harbour and the Saga Pearl II would not be able to berth there. Rather than take the gamble it was agreed between all parties that we would be setting sail towards Harwich in Essex and our disembarkation for this cruise and embarkation for next cruise would take place from there. As I explained to our Guests we are, as always, at the hands of Mother Nature and a harsh mistress she can be at times. That being said due to the more sheltered location of Harwich it was agreed that this option was by far the most sensible and more importantly safest option available to us. Our Guests agreed and many were amazed at how quickly their onward travel arrangements were adjusted by our colleagues in Folkestone, but what else would you expect from Saga?!

Going to Harwich also worked in my favour as I will be signing off there and handing over command of this fine vessel back to my opposite number, Captain Alistair McLundie. Our Cruise Director Jo joked at the farewell cocktail party that perhaps I had more than my fair share in the say of our new port, being that Harwich is only an hour or so by train to my home in Norfolk compared with over four hours from Dover, I can assure you there was no foul play...............honestly!

So Ladies and Gentlemen I will bid you all farewell for the next two months as I return home to my family and I wish Captain McLundie, the fabulous Crew of the Saga Pearl II and of course all those who sail onboard her over the next few weeks enjoyable cruises and very safe sailing.

Today we visited two separate ports in Norway, Orsta and Alesund. Our first stop, Orsta, is surrounded by fjords and some of the most spectacular mountains in Norway. Almost fifty percent of the region’s total area is at an altitude in excess of 2000ft with many of the rugged and wild mountain peaks towering as high as 5000ft in the south.

In Orsta there were two tours for our Passengers to enjoy. The first to leave was the full day trip to ‘Geirangerfjord’. This overland trip picked our Passengers up from Orsta and returned them to the vessel in Alesund and along the way they were introduced to several of the natural highlights of Western Norway. They had the chance to discover the Norwegian Alps, the stunning Hjorundfjord, the dramatic Norangdal Valley and the World Heritage listed Geirangerfjord. Our Guests also had the chance to visit Lyngstoylsvatn Lake which was formed after a huge rock fall in 1908 and underneath the clear waters you can still see the remains of the old farmhouses. Some Passengers remarked to me that it made for quite eerie viewing but is a stark reminder of just how powerful and deadly nature can be. The journey to Geiranger involved a one hour ferry ride and during this our Passengers were able to experience breathtaking views before enjoying lunch at the Union Hotel. The tour continued to Alesund where they enjoyed a short sightseeing and panoramic tour of this quaint town, before returning to the Saga Pearl II.

The next tour to leave was the half day trip to the ‘Fjords and Mountains’. This excursion featured an abundance of fjord, lake and mountain scenery and there was also the chance to visit the small, picturesque village of Saebo on the banks of the Hjorundfjord. Here they were able to stroll through the town admiring the stunning scenery before enjoying refreshments and cakes at the aptly named Sagafjord Hotel.

Our departure from Orsta was shortly after 12:30. With the afternoon at sea we sailed to our next port and the Cruise Staff took the opportunity of the calm conditions to play some golf chipping into the pool, this was a very popular event that many of our Guests joined in with or cheered on their fellow Passengers from the sidelines. For those who wished to stay indoors they were treated to an afternoon of Jazz in Shackleton’s bar with the Djangles Gypsy Jazz Trio.

Our second port today was the charming town of Alesund. Alesund has a distinctive and unique character and looks different from most other Norwegian towns as there are no wooden buildings around its harbour side, instead the city is crammed with art nouveau architecture and design. This is mainly down to the massive rebuilding programme that took place after a fire devastated the city in 1904, leaving 10,000 people homeless. Although chilly, the sun stayed with us for the duration of our stay and assisted the surrounding scenery in providing a magical backdrop for our visit.

There were two tours on offer for our Passengers in the afternoon and the first to leave us was a visit to ‘The Islands of Giske & Godoy’. This tour provided our Passengers with a chance to enjoy Alesund’s main sights and started with a drive through the city where they were able to learn about the art nouveau buildings and their reconstruction after the fire of 1904. Having left the city, our Passengers then travelled through some of the world’s largest subsea tunnels which connect the islands of Giske and Godoy to the mainland. Giske is the birthplace of the Viking King Rollo, an ancestor of William the Conqueror and there was the chance to visit the Giske Chapel which was used as a private church by the Viking Giske family. From here they made their way to the island of Godoy and the charming fishing village of Alnes to enjoy a stroll through the village or the chance to climb the lighthouse for some fantastic views, and with the sun shining like it was, it was a marvellous time for our Guests to enjoy a Kodak moment.

The final tour of the day was the ‘Art Nouveau City Walk’. Local guides, born and bred in the area, took our Passengers through the winding streets and taught them about the city’s buildings and fascinating history. There was also the chance to visit the old Swan Pharmacy, which has retained some of the original interiors from the early 20th century and includes exhibits that have been created to tell the story of the famous 1904 fire. Following this our Guests made their way to the top of the town to enjoy a stunning panoramic view looking across the city, it’s beautiful harbour and the rich variety of art nouveau buildings and decor.

Following our departure from Alesund at 6.30pm Shackleton’s Bar was the venue for a Diabolical Musicals Quiz from our Guest Comedian Gerry Graham as he entertained and posed the questions before the Gail Davies Production Cast wowed our Passengers in the Discovery Lounge with their production show ‘Big Top’. Adam Reece tinkled the ivories in Shackleton’s for our Guests to enjoy before a late night cocktail and Gerry Graham taking to the stage for his ‘spotlight on swing’ cabaret as most Passengers sang and danced along until the wee small hours.

Our second port of call on our Nordic Discovery cruise saw us visit the port of Jondal, which lies in the county of Hordaland. One of The region’s main attractions is the Folgefonna Glacier, which is the third largest glacier in Norway and other attractions include the Folgefonna Ski Centre. In its architectural style the village of Jondal is typically Norwegian and includes many beautiful and historic buildings. Jondal is also the starting point for a glorious mountain road that winds through the Krossdalen Valley and then up to the mountains to the edge of the wonderful Folgefonna Glacier.

Two tours were available for our passengers to enjoy today and the first to leave early on this morning was the ‘Traditions of Hardanger’ excursion. A ferry took our Passengers across the Hardangerfjord to Torvikbygd and from here they continued the journey to Nordheimsund by coach. Our Guests then visited the Boat Preservation Centre and were able to watch skilled boat builders, rope makers and blacksmiths use traditional methods to preserve and restore old wooden boats to their former glories, and while some of our Guests had a look through the gift shop, one or two had hand the chance to try their hand at rope making themselves, although I’m not sure if any of the locals were concerned for their jobs!  The tour continued to the small fishing hamlet of Fyske, enjoying the stunning scenery along the way. Taking time to relax in one of the old farmhouses our Guests were also able to enjoy tea and coffee and a piece of the local apple cake, made from apples that have been growing in the region since the 14th century, whilst a fiddler gave a performance on the Hardanger fiddle, the traditional instrument of the region.

The next tour to leave was ‘Folgefonna Panoramic’. This proved to be our most popular tour with over 120 of our Guests opting to join this excursion. Jondal is the only place in Norway from where you can literally drive up close to the glacial ice field, and this tour allowed our Passengers to do just that. The tour started by coach through the spectacular mountain roads of the Krossdalen Valley, entering a land of ice and snow as the road wound higher and higher. At the conclusion of this ascent, and now 3,900 ft above sea level, our Passengers were able to wonder at the Folgefonna Glacier and the contrast between the stark white ice field and the darker shores of the Hardangerfjord below. With an area of 82 square miles there was so much for our Passengers to appreciate and having spoken to some of them on their return to the ship, I know that they managed to capture some wonderful images on their cameras and the memories of this incredible tour will, I’m sure, remain in the memory for years to come.

All aboard was for 1.30pm and we sailed shortly before 2:00pm as soon as the last tender was safely home. The Cruise Staff took the opportunity of the calm conditions as we cruised the Hardangerfjord to play some golf chipping in the pool with our Guests, others enjoyed a game of bridge, built up a sweat at the fitness classes or relaxed in the library, and of course the tradition of afternoon tea was enjoyed by many.

Following a sumptuous dinner, Charlotte from our Cruise Staff tested the grey matter as she hosted a team trivia in Shackleton’s Bar before our Cruise Director Jo Boase introduced this evening’s entertainment in the Discovery Lounge ‘An Evening of Music – Songs, Theatre & Laughter’ with Sally Jones.

During the 19th century huge harvests of brisling and herring established Stavanger as the sardine capital of the world. Residents are still referred to as a ‘Siddis’ – the ‘S’ from Stavanger and ‘iddis’ which means ‘sardine label’ combined to create the name and the symbol of the city is the key of a sardine can. Some Norwegian cities have struggled with the decline in the fishing industry but Stavanger has managed to maintain its economy by diversifying, first into shipbuilding and now into oil. The differences in these industries have led Stavanger to become a city of two halves. It has a modern area of high rise buildings but also maintains an historic old centre of cobblestoned streets and residential buildings dating from the 18th and 19th century. The day was pretty overcast and there was drizzle in the air, although it wasn’t cold as such and following a day at sea from Dover many of our Guests were looking forward to the opportunity to stretch their legs on ‘terra firma’

Our first tour to depart this morning was an ‘Introduction to Stavanger’ this allowed our Passengers to discover the highlights of the city from the comfort of a coach. Many of our Guests took the opportunity to take photos at Stavanger Cathedral before travelling past the Kings residence and the Three Swords Monument where they were able to hear about how the Viking King Herald I defeated the last of the regional princes and started the unification of Norway. Along with this, other sights that were included on the tour were the magnificent sandy beaches of Jaeren and the Petroleum Museum building and Old Stavanger, Northern Europe’s best preserved wooden village which dates from the 16th and 17th centuries.

The afternoon tour allowed our Passengers to enjoy the ‘Lysefjord Cruise’. This scenic excursion began at Stavanger pier, where our Passengers boarded a boat and set sail across to Lysefjord, by this time the weather had brightened up significantly and our Passengers got to enjoy the beautiful area, surrounded by steep mountains and waterfalls. Our Guests were able to make their way around to the southern side of the fjord were Helleren, an overhanging cliff used as a shelter to the people that fished in hunted in the area, is located. Continuing along the northern side of the fjord, our Passengers made their way past the Pulpit Rock and also had a chance to see the eerie Vagabond’s Cave before making their way back to rejoin the Saga Pearl II.

All aboard was 5.30pm and soon after we set sail towards the Hardangerfjord and our next port of call Jondal. Following a busy day ashore our Passengers were able to relax and unwind while looking forward to another night of great entertainment