Saga Pearl II Captain's blog

September 2010

Marseilles, France

September 30, 2010 - 10:29 pm

Marseilles, France

Marseilles is another great port of call. I have not been here for many years.

We were very fortunate today with our berth. On so many previous occasions we have been assigned a berth that has been a considerable distance from the city, a good half an hour by shuttle bus. However, today we were a five minute drive away and in fact a very pleasant 15 minute walk away from the heart of Marseilles. Mind, arriving as we did in pitch black at some unearthly hour of the morning was a little daunting to say the least as the entrance into the old harbour is quite narrow. We had a good pilot and turning the ship around in her own length and slide into the berth with only 20 feet to spare at each end was faultless.

As dawn broke we were able to see the beauty of the old harbour  – filled with magnificent yachts, many cafes and seafood restaurants surround it, where the affluent owners sit and drink coffee.  Later that evening the Chief Engineer, Bob Kelso and myself took a stroll around the waterfront and enjoy the ambiance and look enviously at all the splendid yachts on display.

Marseilles  is comfortable to explore with the city’s main thoroughfare, La Canebiere stretching eastward from the old port.

I learned a little history from our pilot this morning – Marseilles embraced the French Revolution and at that time it sent volunteers to help defend Paris. As the troops marched northward they took to singing a catchy tune which had been composed a few months earlier in Strasbourg. The song, sung by the people of Marseilles was dubbed La Marseillaise and of course became France’s national anthem. Interesting what one learns!

Marseilles, France

One of today’s most popular tours was the Bay of Marseilles Cruise – tour boats took guests around the coast, where they could see the inlets and bays in a region that was made famous by the paintings of Cezanne. Most fascinating was the sight of the island of ‘If’ which is crowned by a magnificent fortress, which according to the tour guide was immortalised by the author Alexandre Dumas in his book, ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’.

We had an extended stay here tonight and as we weren’t leaving until 11.00pm some guests took advantage of an evening stroll around the city. It has been warm all evening and on the open decks earlier on there was a very successful bowling tournament – not necessarily bowls as we all know it – it was computer generated ten pin bowling – and looked like great fun. Certainly, everyone got into the spirit of the event and at the half way interval an open air dinner was served; fresh fish and steaks from the outdoor grill.

Our cabaret was also something of a special treat too – we were able to welcome a local show onboard – a team of around 15 folkloric musicians and dancers. Their show was the perfect end to the day and they left us to the sound of applause and tremendous accolade from our guests.

Tomorrow we remain in France – as we sail on to Sete, I am hoping for an 8.00am arrival. I shall keep you posted.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Alicante, Spain

September 28, 2010 - 10:53 pm

In the best tradition of this cruise – once again this morning we were alongside a little later than expected – the Spanish word ‘maniana’ springs to mind. There was a ship at our berth – and we had to wait for it to leave before the pilot could board us and take us alongside. It was by no means a hindrance as passengers soaked up the sun on the outside decks – and enjoyed the attractive approach to our berth.

We were tied up with our gangway in place at 9.30am and it seemed everyone had enjoyed a leisurely breakfast.

Alicante has a mild climate and is a popular winter resort. Its many beaches along the Costa Blanca are a great tourist attraction. Today there were two tour options to choose from – both completely different. There was a restful scenic drive to Calpe, where views could be enjoyed and photographs taken at the various stops. Whilst the alternative provided something for those wanting a more active excursion -  ‘The Palm Groves of Elche’ tour took guests on a walk through the groves themselves, where they could enjoy the regions flora and fauna.

Alicante, Spain

Whilst the passengers were ashore enjoying the organised tours I met Luis Pastor the port Cruise Division Manager to exchange plaques for our inaugural visit to Alicante. He very kindly offered to run me ashore and show me around the yacht marina & yacht club, which as you know is a passion of mine or as my wife would say an addiction of mine! Alicante is the home base of the Volvo Ocean Race and I was thrilled and privileged to be shown around headquarters. The photo attached to prove the point! What an amazing state of the art communication and media centre.

This time next year the basin will be full of the competing yachts and it will be real spectacle and one I’d love to see. Here’s hoping that we call at Alicante again next year? In the meantime I have put my name down as a Navi-guesser for any of the yachts needing one – I wish!

This evening The Fenyo Trio gave another superbly constructed classical recital, featuring works by Beethoven and Frank Bridge – it was well attended and from the applause certainly well appreciated by the audience. In the Cabaret Lounge at 9.45pm and following a lovely dinner (our Veranda Restaurant is proving extremely popular with great panoramic views of the sea and sunsets on these warm evenings) our production group pulled out all the stops with another first class floor show.

Tomorrow will be a well earned day at sea – guests have the option to enjoy everything from cards to deck games, bridge visits, art and dance classes and of course presentations from our Antiques Roadshow guest speakers. Alternatively – the forecast is good – and I am sure many will be tempted to do nothing but relax on a lounger in the sunshine with a cocktail or two. All the options are there.

Marseilles the day after tomorrow – I shall let you know how our visit goes.

As always – many thanks – hope to see you soon.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Melilla, Spain

September 27, 2010 - 10:40 pm

Melilla, Spain

At this time of year there is nothing better than cruising the Mediterranean – and today was the perfect example. Melilla is a Spanish enclave on the northern coast of Morocco and we arrived this morning, a little later than initially planned at 10.00am. Our berth was occupied by a local ferry until gone 9.00am so we were waiting patiently outside the breakwater until the pilot was free to board us. Once onboard it was only a short distance to the vacated ferry berth which was ideally situated just 5 minutes walk from the town.

Today was a day for independent exploration – guests could stroll ashore at their leisure and wander around the shops and restaurants. Many did just that – I had a great view from the bridge wing of passengers heading down the gangway in sunhats and shorts.

It is our first visit here and it did not go by unrecognised. We were very flattered to welcome onboard a small television crew from ‘Melilla Television’, who filmed the ship and came onto the bridge to interview me. The presenter was called Maria and she didn’t speak any English – or Welsh for that matter -  just Spanish. Fortunately they had a translator with them and Maria was very charming and I enjoyed the interview very much.

Maria came in very handy – through the translator I asked where there may be a good tapas restaurant to go to for lunch and was given the name of their favourite – one that specialised in fresh seafood. After a quick change I took advantage of a couple of hours break and went off to look around Melilla la Vieja (the town) as it was only a stone’s throw from the ship. The old town has four fortified precincts separated my moats, doorways and drawbridges all of which have been beautifully restored. UNESCO considers the old fortification of Melilla to be a great example of Spanish architecture and civil engineering.

Melilla, Spain

Later after exploring the fortified town I eventually found the restaurant – although as you can see from the photograph – I needn’t have asked Maria’s advice – I should have just asked or followed the crew – they had the right idea . I must admit – they all work hard in their roles and it is always rewarding to see the crew and officers enjoying a little time to themselves, they certainly earn it. In the photograph, amongst others I can see our Second Purser Fiona, many of the dancers, singers - Saul and Lisa and our Tours Manager Jacquie. They must be very attached to the ship because even when they are ashore they keep their home - the Saga Pearl II in sight – such a good photo opportunity that I am pleased I could capture.

Tomorrow we will be docking in Alicante and I am hoping to arrive at 8.30am – this is an unexpected port of call  for the cruise – but if the weather stays as it has been today – it should be quite a bonus. Until then – farewell for now and thank you for reading.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Gibraltar

September 26, 2010 - 11:58 pm

Hello again, as I wrote last time our scheduled stop at Barcelona was hanging in the balance however we have re-arranged the itinerary so that we can still visit. We will now call there later than originally planned on Saturday 2nd October. This will mean that we shall miss our call to Mahon but on the upside we will add Alicante to the itinerary, visiting there on the 28th (the day after tomorrow).

I must commend the efforts of our Tours Manager Jacquie and her assistant Julie on adjusting the tours and our Pursers Department on handling the logistical changes that will have arisen – well done!

Today we made a short but very pleasant visit to Gibraltar and as we approached  I was absolutely delighted to learn that former Saga Captain, Martin Breen would be coming onboard to take the ship in. Martin is now the pilot here in Gibraltar where he lives with his lovely wife Liliana and his baby daughter. So lovely to see him, he hasn’t changed - still the same charmer; and he sends you all his regards via the blog. I wish I’d remembered to take a photo of Martin to include in this blog! Oh well next time ladies.

We were alongside by 3.30pm, and guests were ready to head ashore on a selection of excursions having enjoyed a leisurely morning, a moving  church service accompanied by the Filipino choir and our famous Saga Sunday Roast. Amongst a host of optional tours, the most popular proved to be the ‘Dolphin Watch’ and passengers were not let down, the dolphins were out in force and have been captured on film (or should that be digitally?) to prove it.

This evening The Fenyo Trio delighted all those that attended another charming classical recital and later the mood changed completely as a 60’s and 70’s theme disco drew passengers to our Sundowner bar where they are still dancing as I write to you.

Before I leave you this evening, some touching generosity that must be mentioned. Our Church collection this morning  was dedicated to a Saga crew member, Jed who may be familiar to passengers that have cruised with us before. He was a cabin steward and a credit to the team. Jed has been diagnosed with cancer and we chose to donate the church collection to his treatment which could significantly extend his life. In excess of £600 was raised and the final figure is yet to come in, such great generosity which is met with appreciation from all of us on behalf of Jed.

I will write again soon.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Ferrol, Spain

September 24, 2010 - 11:30 pm

Well - here we are, having begun another cruise and this time to a warmer climate all together.

We left Dover on Wednesday, the sun shining brightly as we debarked our passengers from the Baltic Cruise and embarked a host of new guests. One couple, David and Diana Bright walked up the gangway to the Saga Pearl II for their third visit this year - it's good to welcome them back again.

It is a while since I have been to the Mediterranean and the crossing has been very kind, the notorious  Bay of Biscay almost went by unnoticed. I have to say it's notoriety is totally unfounded, of course, it can be rough at times but then so can any sea and I have sailed through.

Already the cruise is proving to be interesting, and just as everything was going so well, yesterday we were given some unsettling news. One of the highlights of any cruise to the Mediterranean is a visit to Barcelona, which really is a fantastic, vibrant city. Our itineraries are planned months in advance and we unfortunately learned that on the day that we are due to make our visit there will be a national strike.

As I write, we are looking at alternative days to visit and at adjusting our itinerary, I really don't want anyone to miss a day in Barcelona. Of course we will have to look at the required speed and the time it will take to get from port to port, but we will keep you posted.

Today we docked at Ferrol at 12.00pm. What a spectacular entrance to this natural and very sheltered bay guarded by narrow entrance with fortresses on either bank. Little wonder the Spanish established this as one of their main Naval Bases. If I'd known how impressive the port was I would have included Ferrol in my "Mystery Cruise"!

Ferrol is very much a gateway in enabling our guests to visit Santiago de Compostella, an ancient site of pilgrimage  for Christians and one of three main places in the Middle Ages, the other two, of course, Rome and Jerusalem. Passengers were taken by coach to the town where the weather was glorious and the sites spectacular. The cathedral  is awe inspiring, as is the Town Hall and the Palace of Saint Jerome. Guests saw the famous Jubilee Door which is only opened each Jubilee Year and later enjoyed refreshments accompanied by a choral recital. Amongst the other options many passengers chose to take a scenic coach drive along the Galician coast visiting various photo stops and enjoying the views.

We left at 6.30pm this evening and to accompany our departure a classical concert was given in the Discovery Lounge by our residents for this cruise 'The Fenyo Trio'. Led by Gustav Fenyo, they really are masters of their art and it is lovely to have Gustav back with us, he is a most generous artiste and always offers to play for our church services.

Whilst Gustav, Deborah and Tina were playing their recital to the classical music-loving passengers, others were out on deck enjoying the scenery and the gun salute from the battlements of the castle as we passed by. Fortunately no cannon ball were used. I managed to capture the moment as seen in the accompanying photograph.

After dinner our Cabaret Lounge played host to Paul Emmanuel, a most accomplished entertainer. Paul has been influenced by the music of Nat King Cole, and his show, 'Unforgettable' gave a most entertaining tribute to another master of his art.

Tomorrow we shall spend a very enjoyable day at sea - we count amongst our guest speakers the team from the Antiques Roadshow, and I expect they will be giving a very popular series of lectures - certainly something to look forward to.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Oslo, Norway

September 20, 2010 - 11:12 pm

Oslo, Norway

As I said yesterday, our last visit to Norway this year. Oslo is the oldest Nordic capital and an ideal cruise destination. The ship was berthed just five minutes’ walk away from the city centre, with its many shops and waterside cafes. By 8.00am our passengers were assembled in the Discovery Lounge for the days tours – making the most of our last port of call. Today’s choices included a more leisurely panoramic tour and at the other end of the scale a guided walking tour around the city’s points of interest – which also proved popular.

We had a busy morning once the guests had left – at 10.00am I held our weekly Crew Drill – every week our Crew are drilled in the ship’s safety procedures to ensure that everyone knows their responsibilities and today the crew were as efficient as ever.

We left Oslo at 3.00pm this afternoon and are homeward bound, but before we did I couldn’t resist a briefest of visits to the three masted full rigged ship "Christian Radich" berthed ahead of us. She too was preparing to sail south to the Mediterranean, so who knows we might meet up with her next cruise? As we gracefully pulled away from the berth I sounded the ships whistle in traditional fashion to say farewell to the port and well wishers.

Following afternoon tea the public rooms quickly emptied as passengers made their way to their cabins to prepare for our formal farewell evening and cocktail party. It was such a pleasure to stand at the door and to hear so many warming compliments about our ship and crew – all of our guests looked superb and I enjoyed wonderful company at my dinner table. Our thoughts now wander to our next cruise – on Wednesday we will leave Dover for a different climate altogether as we make our way down to the Mediterranean. It will also be our last call into Dover for this year as our home port will once again be Southampton.

I’ll write to you again in a couple of days – thank you for reading.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Copenhagen, Denmark

September 19, 2010 - 10:35 pm

Our penultimate port before we head back to Dover. Our visit today is a short one – but well worthwhile. Copenhagen is one of the cleanest cities in the world and is widely recognised for that fact. Over a third of the people here commute to work by bicycle. It is a pretty city with wonderful architecture and meandering waterways. It was cold when we arrived this morning but bright – and the city looked beautiful in the sunshine.

Today – for those wishing to have an independent wander around Copenhagen – we offered a shuttle bus service into the heart of the city. For others that wanted a guided tour there were a good selection. Some chose the ‘Copenhagen By Foot’ tour; passengers were taken in small groups on a guided walk through the city.

Others opted to stay away from the hustle and bustle and took a tour to Dragoer – a charming seaside resort outside of Copenhagen itself – a tranquil old fishing village that has been beautifully preserved and remains unspoilt. By far the most popular tour was the ‘Harbour Cruise’ which took our passengers on smaller vessels through the city’s canals – a very popular trip both in numbers and in compliments – 222 guests returned from this excursion singing its praises.

The fresh air gave everyone a great appetite for our famous Saga Sunday lunch (it only seems like yesterday I was writing to you about that, and here we are again).

The ship was relatively quiet this afternoon – I think that many people took the opportunity of a post luncheon nap. Later on however, I was delighted to see a full congregation at our ‘Songs of Praise’ service where the choir excelled themselves once more.

Yet again the entertainment tonight was rich in variety – at 6.30pm the Edington Duo gave their final classical concert of the cruise, and at 9.45pm the show lounge played host to our cabaret star for the evening – flautist, Bettine Clemen. Even though I am off to rest now – I know that later tonight there is a Latino themed salsa evening in the Sundowners Bar – the bar has been decorated and special cocktails have been planned, the weather has kept dry and I expect there will be dancing late into the night.

Tomorrow will not only be the final port of this cruise but it will also mark our final visit to Norway this year – since March we have experienced such wonderful hospitality. Take care for now – we’ll speak again tomorrow.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Szczecin, Poland

September 18, 2010 - 11:05 pm

Szczecin, Poland

Our first time here – and not our last I suspect judging by the favourable passenger comments.

Such an attractive final approach through the countryside, there are certainly shades of the Kiel Canal to it -  the banks of the river are lined with trees and the berth itself has panoramic views that overlook the city. We have had much debate on how to pronounce today’s port of call - ‘Szczecin’ – there have been many suggestions offered and even a Polish guest that is sailing with us isn’t sure – so I just had to do my best at the morning announcement. I wonder how a Polish Captain would get on with Llanfairpwllgwyngogerychwyndrobwlllantysiliogogogoch?

The sun shone this morning as we tied the ship alongside at 8.30am and it has stayed bright all day. We did arrive slightly behind schedule and so it was most important that the day trip to Berlin departed quickly. Jacquie, our Tours Manager – efficient as ever, ensured that the tour left swiftly. The trip to Berlin is a long one – two and a half hours each way by coach. We were also slightly concerned because demonstrations have been taking place in the city – however our fears of delays and disruption were unnecessary. The tour was a triumph according to reports, passengers saw the Brandenburg Gate, visited the Reichstag building and were taken to a former checkpoint where the Berlin Wall once stood – parts of it still visible.

Szczecin, Poland

For those who remained in Szczecin there were many sights to see – this region is known as one of the most attractive in Poland, a green city with vast parks and scenic waterways. Local tours included a trip to the Polmos Distillery – where a particular type of vodka is made to a 500 year old recipe – needless to say samples were enjoyed and guests returned to the ship with renewed vigour.

However it is pronounced – today’s port of call can be chalked off as another success. As we returned through the waterways that greeted us earlier this morning, our classical duo accompanied the views splendidly in the Discovery Lounge with an early evening concert. Tonight the dancers will be thrilling us with another ‘high-kicking’ display. Tomorrow – all being well, we should arrive in Copenhagen a little later than initially anticipated – I am hoping around 9.00am. It’s a bustling city and the weather looks promising.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Tallinn, Estonia

September 16, 2010 - 10:40 pm

Tallinn is another port that is often remembered as a favourite by guests on any Baltic cruise. Our berth is always well situated, taking around 10 minutes to get into the city by coach. Today the complimentary shuttle bus dropped passengers throughout the day at the gates to the old town. I have said it before – the old town itself could have been lifted from a painting – it is beautiful.

Passing the flower market, the main street takes you into the walled city, the alleyways are cobbled and the medieval buildings have been beautifully maintained. There are many coffee shops surrounding the old town square from which you can sit and watch the medieval street entertainers. It is easy to understand why so many of our guests always express a desire to return for a longer holiday here.

One of today’s most popular tours was the walking excursion, a four hour gentle stroll around the charming old town -  the guide took guests to view the Russian Orthodox Church of Alexander Nevsky and the 13th century Gothic Dome Church, which has breathtaking views across the city’s gabled rooftops, all the while our passengers were told the story of Tallinn’s past. 

Following the walk there was the chance for a well earned rest, with coffee and cakes whilst enjoying a local folk show.  It was our intention to stay until 3.00pm this afternoon and having found their bearings in the morning, many guests ventured out independently after lunch to explore a little more.

I mentioned it was ‘our intention’ to leave at 3.00pm – and we would have done – had the tug I ordered arrived to pull us from the berth. Despite trying to lift off the berth  with our twin propellers and the bow thruster, the wind was just a little too high, and at 20- 25 knots was holding us fast to the quayside. I had no choice but to wait, and after an hour the tug finally arrived. Many guests assembled on the open decks in the sunshine to say farewell to Tallinn and despite the late sail it has been a terrific day here.

This evening, cocktail hour was very busy, the Shackleton’s Bar was full as guests enjoyed an aperitif before dinner whilst listening to Buddy and Jennie – our vocal duo. Buddy plays the piano and keyboard and Jennie is the vocalist – they are indeed a very talented partnership. After dinner the show lounge was full as passengers waited to enjoy our Call My Bluff night – the evening is based on the popular television show and is always great fun. The panellists tonight were Jacquie, our Shore Excursions manager, Dr. Chris, our ship’s physician and our very own John Parton. Laughter filled the room as Tanya tried to maintain decorum from the wayward panel.

Well – we have a day at sea tomorrow and I am hoping for good weather to make up the time we lost this afternoon – we are en-route for Szczecin in Poland – it is our maiden call there and the tours will be taking our passengers to Berlin, a long day trip, almost three hours each way by coach, but well worth it.  These delays can have a domino effect for the whole cruise, as we are dependent on tides and so on.

Until then – take care.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

St Petersburg, Russia

September 15, 2010 - 10:11 pm

St Petersburg, Russia

We have spent the best part of two days here in St. Petersburg, the highlight of any Baltic cruise. It is a remarkable city, and even after two days of sightseeing, the surface has barely been scratched. The city was founded by Peter the Great and it is almost impossible to comprehend that much of it was marshland when he first arrived 300 years ago.

Over the last ten years of visiting here, I have noticed a great many improvements to the infrastructure and the money that tourism has brought has been put to great use restoring many of the fabulous palaces to their former glory. I cannot do the city justice in words – the palaces are innumerable, and indescribably ornate. I always find it ironic that everything the people of St. Petersburg objected to which led to the revolution, those ostentatious palaces, the gilded rooms and the opulent treasures, are now the very things that are being restored after having once been ransacked, in order to promote tourism and improve the economy.
 
It is a city that has a fascinating history – of course the revolution is something that we have all read about and it has inspired many films. Names such as Rasputin spring to mind, and visitors to the city can actually visit not only the palace but the very room where he was murdered – here the macabre event  is eerily recreated with waxwork models.
 
We arrived on time yesterday morning and I must give praise and credit to our pursers department – the clearance and immigration procedures here in Russia are very complex, visa’s have to be organised and issued and the whole operation was done with faultless efficiency. For anyone visiting this city – the easiest way has to be by cruise ship – the task of obtaining a visa independently is a difficult and lengthy one – all of that is taken out of our guests hands and done for them. Quite apart from that I also think that it is best to tour St. Petersburg in the safety of a group.

By 8.00am the ‘tour marathon’ began and the first day offered many choices – ‘Splendours of St. Petersburg’, ‘Catherine’s Palace’, ‘Gulf of Finland Panoramic Tour’ to name just a few – and one of my favourites – ‘The Royal Palaces and Parks of Peterhof’ proved very popular – this trip takes guests to the Peterhof Palace, the summer residence of the Tsars which was built with the intention of rivalling Versailles. The formal gardens are simply spectacular with a series of 150 fountains and golden statues lining the approach.

St Petersburg, Russia

Last night the ship was quiet as most of our passengers enjoyed an early dinner before heading out to the city at night  - to watch the world famous Russian ballet. At 11.00pm guests returned to the ship by coach enthralled by the experience. Others ventured out to see the equally fantastic Folkloric Show – I have seen it many times and every year it is different, featuring the Russian Army Choir, immaculate in their uniforms and those oversized hats that always look out of place.
 
Today our determined guests assembled at 8.00am for another round of tours – this included the Hermitage Museum, the world’s largest and most impressive museum, made up of several palaces attached to one another, with only 1% of its treasures on display at any one time. If I recall correctly there is a statistic that says it would take around seven years to look at every item for 2 seconds – or something along those lines. It boasts amongst its collection works of art by Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Picasso and Michael Angelo – it is breathtaking. Another great tourist attraction is the Church of the Spilled Blood, with its multicoloured minarets – a must for the holiday photo album.

It has been a pleasantly exhausting couple of days for everyone and tonight there will be a welcome reward – one hour back on the clock. Well, I must leave you now, tomorrow we are in picturesque Tallinn, Estonia – another popular port of call. The weather is holding up well – it may have been grey but we are very fortunate that it has remained dry this far.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Helsinki, Finland

September 13, 2010 - 11:00 pm

We were berthed this morning at 8.00am and this is by far the best weather we have yet experienced – warm and bright with largely blue skies. Helsinki is the perfect port to visit. The facilities are superb and the port itself is a comfortable 10 minute walk along the flat to the city centre.

Crossing a pedestrian bridge, visitors arrive at the Helsinki outdoor market, full of colourful stalls, selling handicrafts, souvenirs, fresh fish and fruits. A little further beyond the market there is a well kept promenade through the city, surrounded by greenery and manicured flower beds. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants to take a rest at – but be warned, a cup of coffee doesn’t come cheap here, although the experience is well worth the price. The city’s grand architecture reveals a mixture of Swedish, Russian and international influences and Helsinki is often called the ‘white city of the north’ because many of its buildings are made from local light-coloured granite.

Two tours were available today, the most popular being ‘Helsinki Highlights’. Photo opportunities included the largest Orthodox Church in Scandinavia and the neo–classical Senate Square, built in the 19th Century. Of course once given a flavour and an orientation of Helsinki by the guides in the morning, many guests chose to take our complimentary shuttle bus back into the city in the afternoon to explore a little deeper and to indulge personal interests. Helsinki boasts Finland’s finest department store – it’s equivalent to our Harrods. It’s name is ‘Stockmans’ and I noticed more than one or two shopping bags returning up the gangway this afternoon!

Helsinki, Finland

The second tour today took place this afternoon, the ‘Sibelius Experience’. As you all know, Sibelius was Finland’s most Famous composer. The tour, which I took, visited his home near Lake Tuusula which has been preserved as it was during the family’s lifetime – this trip was of particular interest to classical music enthusiasts and was much appreciated and greatly praised.
 
Shortly after we had let go the ropes, I negotiated a tight manoeuvre out of the harbour and it was time for a quick change of uniform. This evening I greeted over 230 guests at our Newcomers Cocktail Party, each of them enjoying Saga’s hospitality for the first time and it was very warming to hear so many compliments directed towards our crew as I shook their hands.

Tonight, after another delicious dinner the entertainment started in earnest – there were quizzes and films. However the highlight must have been our singers and dancers, who transformed the show lounge into a West End stage – as they gave us a great floorshow called ‘Musical Memories’ – all toes were tapping and the applause reflected their fantastic performance – well done to them for another triumph.

It has been another busy day, and from tomorrow, we will spend two days alongside in St. Petersburg where the word ‘busy’ gains a new meaning altogether – for many, the ultimate highlight of a Baltic cruise with so much to see – every time we go back I am amazed at the improvements there. I shall keep you posted on our visit, I must take a little rest, we pick the pilot up at 4.00am and lose an hour on the clocks tonight.

As always, take care and we’ll speak soon – if not via the blog – perhaps on a cruise?

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Mariehamn, Finland

September 12, 2010 - 11:28 pm

Our first visit here – and such an interesting place – quite unique in many ways.
 
Mariehamn is the capital of Aland, an autonomous territory under Finnish sovereignty – it is the seat of the Government and Parliament of Aland and is only the size of a small village.
 
As you may know, when the ship visits a port for the first time, we enjoy taking part in a little piece of sea-faring tradition. I host a ‘presentation party’ – often including the local mayor, port authorities, harbour master and so on. They come onboard and we exchange plaques which we then place in a gallery onboard – these plaques are an attractive visual record of everywhere that the ship has been.

Today I was surprised – I welcomed the local agent onboard together with a representative of the Aland government – his name was Robert. Having practiced my Finnish greeting studiously I was astounded to find that  Robert had a broad Scots accent. Needless to say, my curiosity got the better of me and I had to ask the question that Robert no doubt gets asked daily – “That’s not a Finnish accent – what brought you here?”

Over coffee I discovered that he visited Mariehamn thirty-seven years ago whilst travelling around the Baltic and planned to stay for just a fortnight – he met a young lady and quickly ran out of money, having spent most of it at the town’s only nightclub. The lady was, it transpired, not the reason he stayed – he didn’t have the fare to carry on his journey and thirty-seven years later, here he still is.

Robert is now responsible for many aspects of the government and for promoting Mariehamn – I was delighted when he gave me a special set of stamps that had been commissioned to mark the ship’s visit, a first for me. The stamps have the picture and the name of the ship on them and can be posted from Mariehamn to anywhere in Europe.

Pommern, Mariehamn, Finland

He also gave me a book that I shall enjoy reading and very much cherish. The book is about the four masted steel barque “Pommern” which is now resided in the port as a lasting reminder of one of great “Grain Race Sailing Ships” of yesteryear.
Needless to say a visit to the Pommern was on the cards for me as soon as our convivial meeting was over.
 
It was a pleasure to meet Robert and it just goes to show that life is full of surprises and unexpected twists. I hope he continues his happy career and life here, and wish him every success.
 
Well – onboard Saga Pearl II there is nothing unexpected about a Sunday, as we maintain one of Britain’s finest traditions - passengers are always guaranteed a first class roast beef and Yorkshire pudding Sunday luncheon – and today was no exception.
 
Today we also had the opportunity to gather together following afternoon tea for our ‘Songs of Praise’ Sunday worship. Our fabulous Filipino choir presented another medley of praise songs and I have to thank them for finding the time in their schedules to rehearse. To Ramon and all of the choir – my thanks and gratitude.
 
This evening the Discovery Lounge was filled with one of the most wonderful sounds in the world -  the sound of laughter. We welcomed Gerry Graham, a great comic who gave his second show of the cruise to a full house. It is his first time with Saga and I am sure it will not be his last – he tapped into everything that makes life funny and really struck a chord.
 
It has been a most successful day. Tomorrow we should be alongside in Helsinki at 8.00am – until then ‘blog-followers’, farewell for tonight.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Stockholm, Sweden

September 11, 2010 - 11:07 pm

We left Dover last Wednesday, and it has been a calm crossing. On Thursday afternoon we entered the Kiel Canal  - and although the weather was a little grey, at least the rain held off, and all in all, for the time of year - we mustn’t grumble. Whilst I was negotiating the locks, at 6.00pm, and well inside the canal, we held a classical concert in the Discovery Lounge. The lounge is surrounded by picture windows, and the views of the banks of the canal are just charming. Many former Germanic sea captains retire here and the grounds and gardens of their spectacular homes reach down to the banks themselves. I’m informed that the music was the perfect accompaniment to the view.

Our arrival at Stockholm was at the very civilised time of 12 noon, giving passengers the opportunity for a leisurely breakfast and a mid-morning lecture presentation – today by Concorde Pilot Tim Orchard. Tim has been with us many times, and not only is he a wonderful speaker, he is also one of life’s gentlemen. He is travelling with his wife Trish, and it is a pleasure to have them with us.

Stockholm is the Baltic’s largest sea port and is set on 14 islands, connected by 40 bridges. Surrounded by clear waters and unspoilt countryside, it is one of the most beautiful capitals in the world and known as the ‘Venice of the North’.

There were three tour options for our guests to choose from and the most popular was the ‘Stockholm Panoramic Tour’. This two hour guided excursion provided the perfect overview of the city by coach, stopping for photographs at the Fjallgatan Viewpoint and the Royal Park of Djugraden (known as the ‘green lungs’ of Stockholm), amongst others. Another favourite tour – and one which I have personally enjoyed on more than one occasion – was the ‘waterways of Stockholm’ trip; a two hour long boat journey through the islands, with great views of the city and it’s architecture.

I spent the afternoon visiting the Vasa Museum – you may very well have read about this in previous blogs. The Vasa is a 17th-century ship that was launched in Stockholm and sank on its maiden voyage. Probably the shortest maiden voyage ever!

After more than 300 years it was discovered and raised – in a remarkable state of preservation due to the nature of the waters here. A purpose built museum was constructed and the ship pieced back together. I have to say I was in awe of the restoration project. A far cry from the dripping wreck wrapped in a plastic tent back in 1963 when I first visited Stockholm as an apprentice.

The Vasa Museum is most impressive and a ‘must see’ for any visitor to Stockholm.

Tonight the Eddington Duo, our classical musicians this cruise, gave a well attended recital in the Show Lounge. We remained alongside until 10.00pm this evening, as it is only a short trip to our next port - Mariehamn In Finland. It will be our first visit there.

Until tomorrow – take care.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Stavanger, Norway

September 6, 2010 - 11:46 pm

We were alongside this morning by 8:00am at our final port of call following a cruise that could have been lifted straight from a film – it has been no less than idyllic. We closed the cruise as we began it, with wonderful sunshine at a great port for independent exploration.

Our berth was in the centre of the city, and perfectly placed for guests to stroll a few yards into the hub of Stavanger.  The city overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, and Stavanger’s prosperity has always been drawn from the ocean . During the 19th century huge harvests of brisling and herring secured Stavanger the title of ‘sardine capital of the world’.

During the past two and half decades, a different product from the sea has taken over as Stavanger’s lifeblood – that’s oil. Since its discovery in the late 1960s, North Sea oil has transformed both the economy and lifestyle of the city.

Four excursions were available today, the most popular being ‘An Introduction to Stavanger’. The trip gave guests the perfect orientation of the city and many chose to delve deeper themselves following lunch. One of the many highlights was a stop at Ledaal Manor, former home of writer Alexander Kielland and now the King’s residence whilst in town.

Another popular tour today was the ‘Lysefjord Boat Trip’ and it could not have been better, three hours of cruising the Lysefjord itself, taking in views of the Helleren overhanging cliff, once used as a shelter for the people that fished and hunted there and also the famous Pulpit Rock, a flat protruding rock formation that towers more than 1,800 feet above sea level.

This evening our passengers prepared themselves for a formal dinner and, as always, looked resplendent in their ball gowns and dinner jackets. The tone of the night was set with a pre-dinner classical recital from Jonathan and Tom, our guest classical performers and following Chef Gavin’s culinary experience, guests made their way to our Show Lounge for a great Variety Night, featuring our dancers, Stuart Gillies and Kaye Weston.

Tomorrow is a day at sea – and the weather may be heading for a change with gales forecast, we cannot complain though, what a great week.

We plan to arrive in Dover on Wednesday morning for our ‘turnaround day’ – as I have explained before, in just a few hours we will say farewell to our passengers, make the Saga Pearl II ship shape and by 4:00pm we should have embarked a new group of cruisers as we make way for the Baltic, via the beautiful Kiel Canal. 

As I understand it, we have another full ship, many returning to the Pearl II for a second or third time this year and of course we will welcome a host of newcomers – all here to experience our famous hospitality. 

Thank you for reading and for following us on one of the most memorable Norwegian cruises I have experienced. I will write again soon...

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Floro, Norway

September 5, 2010 - 11:28 pm

Floro, Norway

The record remains unbroken – just another brilliant morning, the sun shining brighter than ever. Speaking with the Officers, not one of us can remember a visit to Norway that has been quite this good at this time of the year (and between us that amounts to more than a few visits). This is of course wonderful for all of our guests, who can experience Norway at its very best. This morning at 8.00am we arrived here, in Norway’s most westerly town, Floro.

Floro is a most attractive small town on the Norwegian coast, surrounded by many pretty islands. Originally established as a base for the herring industry, today it has services for the offshore oil industry, which provide good jobs for the community. The supply base here for the offshore oilfields is a busy part of the harbour.

There were several tours on offer today, but the most popular excursion was the ‘Coastal Contrasts and the Black Friday Museum’ tour -  taking our passengers on a 5 ½ hour trip to the village of Naustdal. The main highlight of this tour was a visit to the Black Friday Museum which documents the biggest dogfight fought out in the skies over Norway during World War II. The trip included a lunch of local cuisine and by all accounts this was given full marks. In the afternoon passengers were taken for a  drive along the shores of Fordefjord and Heilefjellet where they could view some of the biggest rock carving fields in Europe. Some of the carvings are 3,000 years old; depicting humans, animals, fertility and agricultural symbols.

Floro, Norway

At 5.30pm, and in acknowledgement of it being a Sunday, we held a ‘Songs of Praise’ service in our Discovery Lounge. It was lovely to see the room full to capacity as we celebrated with the Filipino choir. The choir has gone from strength to strength and under the guidance of our Safety Carpenter, Ramon we were blessed by an anointed medley of Praise & Worship.

Tonight, dinner was served accompanied by more wonderful scenery and the entertainment programme offered something for everyone. As well as the Trivia Quiz, Cinema and ballroom dancing we were given a superb Classical Concert from the Esterhazy duo and later a Broadway floor show from our young and talented production cast. Later, nightcaps were enjoyed along with music from the Finale Duo in our late night Shackleton’s Bar.

Tomorrow we should be alongside at our final port, Stavanger by 9.00am – until then – thank you once again.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Geiranger, Norway

September 4, 2010 - 10:59 pm

Geirangerfjord, Norway

It is remarkable for the time of year – which is the end of the season here in Norway – that the weather is such an absolute triumph. For those of you that have sailed with me before I always make a ‘tongue in cheek’ pact with our guests that I will provide the destinations whilst they are responsible for the weather. What a brilliant job they are doing – I do hope that I can maintain my end of the bargain to such great effect.

Today, I have been told, is the final day of the tourist season here in Geiranger and we are the last cruise ship to visit this year. From tomorrow many facilities will shut down and this idyllic setting will, as winter deepens, become more and more isolated as the fjord will eventually freeze. It is difficult to comprehend how those that stay here throughout the year manage – the community is very small and very close and I can only imagine that the beauty surrounding Geiranger is the daily reward for what must be, at times, a very difficult way of life.

I have heard Geiranger described as ‘the most beautiful cul-de-sac in the world’, which is absolutely true and such an apt ‘summing up’ of its indescribable beauty. It lies at the end of a stunning approach through the Geiranger fjord, surrounded by mountains and today topped by the bluest sky.

Geirangerfjord, Norway

We took our guests ashore throughout the day by ship’s tender, a short and pleasant 10 minute journey to the jetty. We began our operation at around 8.30am – sending a shore party to set up chairs and hot drinks at the quay. By 9.00am passengers were assembling in the Discovery Lounge, keen to head off on the day’s scenic excursions. Jacquie, our Shore Excursions Manager ensured that the coaches were in place and I am delighted to say all went superbly. There were, as usual, a range of tours – from panoramic coach trips to a farm visit and of course an excursion to the famous Norwegian Fjord Centre – where Geiranger’s heritage, culture and history is explained through film, photography and a series of displays that include relics and artefacts – there is even an avalanche simulation projected onto a 180 degree screen – not for the faint-hearted!!

As guests returned to the ship we made ready for our departure and the breathtaking return journey through the fjord en-route to tomorrow’s port – Floro.

At 6.30pm – I was delighted to host another party – and I think, as far as I can recall, a Saga first. It was a Britannia Party and our 32 guests joined us on the aft deck at our Sundowners Bar – the evening was bright and warm and I honestly do not think that the views could be rivalled. Certainly a party that will take some beating.

Tonight, following a delicious dinner – again with spectacular views from our picture windows in both dining rooms – passengers were treated to a top class cabaret show from Kaye Weston  - a lovely and talented young lady who is from the home of Lisa Stansfield, Cyril Smith and most notably, Gracie Fields – that’s Rochdale of course. Kaye has sung on ships all over the world and last year was guest star for the launch of the Aurora – she has said that she is thoroughly enjoying the atmosphere on our little ship and has already made many friends amongst both the crew and guests, Kaye is with us until the end of the week and will make another welcome visit in November.

Talking of entertainment - I must also mention that making their mark onboard are the new Finale Duo – they are our resident piano and vocal duo from the Philippines, playing nightly in our Shackleton’s Bar. They joined us just a couple of  days ago in Dover and already they have quite a following in the late night bar, little wonder, they are so effortlessly easy to listen to.

Well – as always, thank you for reading, and I promise to keep you posted on our stop at Floro tomorrow – will this weather hold – it’s almost too good to be true. Take special care.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Bergen, Norway

September 3, 2010 - 4:48 pm

Well – I am back again, Captain David here and I hope to keep you updated with our travels over the next couple of months.
 
Where does the time go? Just 48 hours ago I was at home and my holiday has flown by. It was lovely to spend the summer with Beverley and family and friends in Wales – the weather as usual was a mixed bag, but certainly some fine days amongst them, and as I drove down to Dover, naturally, the sun shone brighter than it has done at any time over the last few weeks – it does make me laugh. As I arrived it  was a delight to be greeted by Captain Alistair as he handed over the reigns of the Saga Pearl II, and to see not only his lovely wife Jennifer, but also his beautiful baby boy, Scott-Ross and I wish all three a lovely few weeks together.
 
As always it is straight back to business and with this great crew it's never a chore. This week we are taking a trip to Norway – a week long cruise and the ideal opportunity for new passengers to come and sample our famous Saga hospitality. Last night I hosted our Welcome Cocktail Party – and out of 432 guests I greeted over 300 newcomers, I went on to enjoy a delicious dinner with great company before a relatively early night whilst our ‘wined and dined’ passengers assembled in the Show Lounge for a real class act – cabaret from Stuart Gillies – a favourite of ours – I remember him winning Opportunity Knocks and fondly recall his hit, ‘Amanda’. Apart from being a great entertainer, Stuart is such a nice guy too. 

Bergen, Norway

At 6.00am this morning we picked up the pilot for our first stop, Bergen. We arrived to blue skies, the early morning chill soon disappeared and gave way to a delightfully warm day – and for the wettest city in the world that is a blessing. On a day such as this it is so easy to understand why Bergen is such a popular port of call for cruise ships from all over the world – not only is it a very attractive approach to the berth, but from the berth we can clearly see the city and guests can head ashore to explore with ease. Today it is as picturesque as I can ever remember it.
 
Bergen is the second largest city in Norway, originally named Bjorgvin, Bergen was founded around 1070 by King Olav III and was, in fact, the capital in the 12th and 13th centuries.

The tour excursions were plentiful today. The ‘Panoramic City’ tour and ‘Bergen Highlights’ tour provided the perfect overview and orientation of Bergen – taking place this morning, these guided coach trips gave guests enough information and confidence to be able to head off independently during the afternoon.

Others selected the ‘Iconic Norway’ tour, which, from the sounds of our returning guests was a great day out. The tour began with a coach trip to Voss, a popular and scenic resort, here guests boarded a train for one of Europe’s most impressive rail journeys, through valleys, past rivers and under mountains. At Myrdal there was a change of trains onto the famous Flamsbana railway line to the tiny village of Flam set on the Sognefjord. Lunch was at the Stalheim Hotel at the top of Norway’s steepest road – Stalheimskleivene. The hotel there is filled with beautiful antique furniture and paintings and the lunch is always exceptional. All in all a successful first day.
 
Now that all of our guests have returned, shortly we will take in the ropes and make our way for Geiranger. Whilst we head off to navigate the fjords our passengers are sure to enjoy another good night of dancing, cabaret and quizzes.

Until tomorrow – it’s good to be back ‘blog-followers’. Take care.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

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