Saga Pearl II Captain's blog

We had experienced a rather bumpy run south to Dover from Bergen. As usual before sailing from Bergen we battened down the hatches and secured the ship and passengers for the rough weather. Once again I was very impressed by the sea-keeping qualities of the ship and she performed well. As we got further south, the wind eased and arrival in Dover was in calm conditions.

As usual, we embark our pilot about two miles from the eastern entrance; Nigel Stokes was our pilot this morning. One of the nice things about coming to Dover is that you get to know the pilots and after 13 years, I have got to know the pilots well and their abilities. I always remember my first time coming through the eastern entrance, wondering if the pilot was ever going to turn the ship away from the concrete, but you realise they know the tide so well and at the last minute they dodge around the breakwater. So when we arrive, I am always comfortable with this difficult entrance. Once we get the ship inside the piers, the Pilot hands the ship to me for manoeuvring and we were soon all fast alongside Cruise terminal 1.

As normal, the work starts and everyone knows what to do. The storing starts, the luggage is off and on, passengers are disembarked, embarked, fresh water is loaded, and fuel was loaded. All have the operation down to a fine art.

On embarking our new guests, it was a delight today, as usual, to see so many familiar faces arriving on the gangway, coming back home to Saga, as well as welcoming lots of new faces to the Saga family on this cruise. With 147 repeat passengers and 282 newcomers, the Saga Pearl II was at full capacity and ready to commence another trip to beautiful, iconic Norway. As our guests were busy embarking, afternoon tea was being served in the Discovery Lounge, which was the usual grand affair with a buffet offering an assortment of cakes, scones and savouries, a welcome treat for everyone to enjoy after their journey. 

It was a special day for me today as my wife Jenny and son Scott were joining me for a week before we fly home together next week. We were testing him to see how he travels. I was delighted to see them after two months away and was moved when my son took only a few seconds to recognise me. I tell you, fatherhood has melted my heart, that’s for sure. I always liked to be looked upon as a firm but fair Captain. Now I think I am just plain gooey!

We sailed to the north, having conducted our mandatory Passenger Lifeboat drill.

After exploring the stunning modern decor of the Saga Pearl II, there was enough time for passengers to settle into their cabins and freshen up into casual attire for the evening ahead.

Following tonight’s usual delectable meal, we featured “Welcome aboard Showtime” in the Discovery Lounge, hosted by Cruise Director Tanya Whitehurst. The introductions commenced with our new resident production cast, the fantastic “Gail Davies Singers and Dancers”, with their debut performance,  a number appropriately entitled “Be Our Guest”. Tanya then gave a familiarisation of the ship and an explanation of the cruise ahead before introducing some of the ship's staff.

After the main show time there was music for dancing with the Saga Pearl II Orchestra. Late night snacks and hot drinks were also being served in the Verandah restaurant. Some chose to have a night cap in Shakleton’s Bar, but most decided to retire early for the night after a long day. 

Stavanger is something of a survivor. While other Norwegian coastal towns have fallen foul of the precarious fortunes of fishing, Stavanger has grown and flourished, and is now the proud possessor of a dynamic economy which has swelled the population to around 100,000. It was the herring fishery that first put money into the town, crowding its 19th-century wharves with coopers and smiths, net-making and menders. When the fishing industry failed the town moved into shipbuilding and ultimately oil: the port builds the rigs for the offshore oilfields and is a centre for oil refining.

One of the organised excursions today was an ‘Introduction to Stavanger’, a 3 hour guided coach tour offering an overview of Stavanger, with insight into the history of the city. The trip concluded with a visit to the petroleum museum building and old Stavanger, northern Europe’s best preserved wooden village which dates from the 16th and 17th century.

‘Lysefjord Boat Trip’ was one of the most popular excursions on offer today. This three hour tour started out at Lysefjord, a beautiful area surrounded by steep mountains and waterfalls. They then continued onto the Lysefjord Centre which revealed some of the history of the area and finally, guests enjoyed a cup of coffee and some traditional Norwegian waffles here before returning back to the ship. 

The final option for those so inclined was “Flor and Fjaere Gardens which are located in the small fjord island of Sфr Hidle, a unique botanical garden bursting with exotic flora, palm trees, lemon groves and a variety of plants next you would not expect to see in a garden so far north.

Our food & beverage team decided to take advantage of the glorious weather, and organised a barbeque style grill on the Sundowners deck a lovely way to enjoy an alfresco lunch in the sunshine.

We sailed at 6pm, on the final leg of our cruise.The weather has been kind to us this week and other than a bit of residual swell  from a gale a few days ago, the run down looked as though it was going to be comfortable. So for the next few days it is getting ready to hand over the ship to David Warden Owen who is coming to relieve me in Dover.

Tonight’s programme was packed with a variety of entertainment for our final formal evening of the cruise evening we were treated to another delightful classical recital performed by Solo Pianist Nigel Clayton, in which he played works from Beethoven, Chopin and Gershwin.

The Main Cabaret Showtime, presented the superb Electra Violin Duo, with a show entitled “A Night to Remember” another show stopping performance which was greatly received by all.

Guests were then invited to join the Cruise Staff in the Sundowners bar for a Latino themed dance party. Guests took to the floor and were giving the opportunity to learn a variety of basic Latin steps from Salsa to Merengue and even some Samba – great fun and thirsty work.

This trip has a few pioignant moments. Firstly, it has been such a proud moment for me to bring my son Scott on my ship. He has been such a star and been as good as gold with all the ship's crew cooing over him...

Secondly, and sadly, my Staff Captain, Wesley Dunlop, is leaving us to go to pastures new. He is going to ferries where he can spend more time with his wife Kelly and their baby on the way.

Wes has been a superb Senior Officer. I have very high standards and this chap is the most professional officer I have sailed with and is a great loss but I understand his reasons... family comes first.

But we all onboard wish this young man and his new wife the best of luck in the future.

Jondal lies between the banks of Hardangerfjord, the third largest fjord in the world. It boasts two of Norway’s most spectacular cascades, the Voringfossen and the Skykkjedalsfossen, and is surrounded by the Hardangervidda mountain plateau – Norway's largest national park. The charming village of Jondal has many beautiful buildings, including many Swiss houses with stone roofs and well kept orchards, and is rich with agriculture. The area is also historically known for ship and boat building, and is home to a boat building school which still teaches traditional methods of boat building.

We arrived at Jondal, slightly earlier than brochured in order to get anchored and set up the tender operation. Due to the Hardangerfjord being so deep, we had to creep our way into the bay, until finding the 50 metre contour, rising steeply from 150 metres. Once on the plateau, we lowered the anchor down and ran astern to lay the chain on the plateau. So we were all anchored by 9.30am.

One of the main attractions here is Folgefonna glacier, Norway’s third largest glacier, standing 1,550 metres above sea level, a popular destination for skiers and Hikers. The “Folgefonna Panoramic “ tour took 140 of our guests on a couch journey 3,937 feet above sea level, along a windy mountain road offering magnificent views of Hardangerfjord,  white ice fields,  green fertile land and small waterfalls of melted ice and snow dripping down the rocks. They also stopped at the foot of the Glacier for photos before the journey continued, back down the mountain road to Jondal to enjoy coffee and waffles, before heading back to the ship.

“Heart of Hardanger” was another excursion organised by our shore excursion team. This was an educational trip to Hardanger Folk Museum, which is an outdoor museum housed in beautifully restored farmhouses. The museum displayed crafts, knitwear and national costumes which would have traditionally have been made by Farmers wives. The museum offers a rich insight into the culture of the Hardanger’s and their close relationship with the sea.

As I had mentioned, I had my son Scott and Wife Jenny onboard so I took the opportunity to introduce my son to the ways of the sea, and showed him how to manoeuvre the ship (pictured here!)

I have to say, all the passengers have been desperate to see Scott, but as Saga is over 50s and no children, I have had to be descreet with my son. But at 7 months old, he just wants to know where the next feed comes from and he likes to laugh a lot. I have to say, I feel so proud looking over at my son sitting on the window, as I bring the ship in to port. It takes me back to when I was a youngster and watching my dad as Captain. And I still wear my father's old Captains hat.

Back onboard, the evening’s entertainment commenced with pre-dinner dancing accompanied by the Saga Pearl II Orchestra. Our gentleman hosts invited the ladies to the floor in the Discovery Lounge for quicksteps, waltzs and cha chas, just to name a few.

The cruise department organised a fun night of entertainment following dinner at 9.30pm, with a game of “Call My Bluff”, our version of the once popular television gameshow. We had a fantastic panel of three ladies, our Hotel Director Dawn Cartwright, Shore Excursions manager Jacquie Forbes-Watson and Assistant Cruise Director Sharon Smith, hosted by Cruise Director Tanya Whitehurst.  The audience really enjoyed the show and roared with laughter at some of the imaginative definitions the panel used to describe the words.

For those guests who still had the energy there was late night dancing in the Shakleton’s bar with David Taylor on the piano, and in the main lounge there were popular tunes for dancing.

Around 8.00am this morning we arrived at Gudvangen, surrounded by soaring mountains with beautiful waterfalls cascading down into the silk-like tranquil waters, a most awe-inspiring sight. Gudvangen translates as “worship place of heathen gods” and lies on Naeroyfjord which is a tributary of Sognefjord. It is a very popular tourist destination and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I had decided not to anchor as it was only for a short time, to disembark our passengers, so I took the opportunity for the Safety Officer, Steve Pittock, to take the controls and have “play” with the ship, while I had my breakfast.The best meal of the day is a good full English breakfast after you have been up all night sailing through the fjords. Not the most healthy but very filling.

Shortly after arriving, a tender boat was prepared to take 27 of our guests on the all-day “Iconic Norway” excursion. The remainder of our guests stayed on board, taking in the breathtaking views, and awaited our arrival in Flam.

I left early from Gudvagen in order to arrive at Flam early, to allow the passengers to enjoy as much time as possible in Flam,(pronounced by the locals as FLOM!).

Our passengers were able to wander off the ship and explore the lovely village of Flam. Flam is in the heart of western Norway surrounded by a picturesque scenery and meadows. The main tourist attraction of Flam is it’s famous railway, which runs up to Mydral to connect with the main Oslo to Bergen line. The railway climbs 2,850 feet above sea level, a dramatic journey, passing breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains and vast waterfalls. This was one of the most popular tours organised by our shore excursion team, with 250 of our guests embarking on this captivating journey.

A more exclusive tour leaving the ship with 19 of our guests was “Fjord Village and Osterbo Mountain”. This tour offered an insight into traditional fjordland culture, with a visit to a fjordland village set around a 13th century church and a mountain farm which was a working farm until the late 1920s. Guests enjoyed coffee with waffles, cream and jam at a final stop before arriving back to the ship.

We slipped away at 5.30pm, heading for Jondal. As we were under pilotage, I have to be on the bridge by law and company procedure, so Tanya kindly hosted our Brittannia party this evening.

The evening’s entertainment started with a Classical Concert, performed by Solo Pianist, Nigel Clayton, who performed a stunning recital of works from Beethoven and Brahms, to the impressionism of Debussy and romantic Chopin. 

Shortly following the recital, as a token of their loyalty to Saga, Britannia Club members were invited to join the Saga Pearl II staff and officers for a cocktail party in the Sundowner’s Bar , hosted by Cruise Director Tanya Whitehurst, as mentioned

After tonight’s evening meal at 9pm David Taylor our resident cocktail pianist organised teams of six in The Shakleton’s Bar for a special “Name That Tune” style quiz. David then continued to play music for everyone's enjoyment.

Meanwhile in the Discovery Lounge our resident “Gail Davies” singers and dancers, put on a spectacular cabaret show entitled “Sailaway”. This was their third performance since joining the ship in Dover, and all their hard work rehearsing had cleary paid off. The show was fabulous, well polished with amazing costumes and innovative choreography, and was enjoyed immensely by all those in attendance.

Our first destination on this Fjordland Wonders cruise was the popular port of Bergen - Norway’s second largest city. As we arrived alongside at around 10am I was reminded again why this port is so popular to many cruise ships from all over the world; it is the general flavour of this city which appeals. Offering typical Norwegian charm, history and culture, Bergen is home to many medieval buildings and a whole series of interesting museums.

All this as well as being surrounded by seven mountains, and enjoying shelter to the north and west by a series of straggling islands. Although Bergen is a major industrial port with steel manufacturing, processed food, forest products and fishing continuing to underpin the economy, it remains easy going and laid back.

The cities amenities were only a 15-minute bus journey away from the ship and a shuttle bus service was provided for those wanting to explore Bergen independently and with ease.

As usual our tour excursions were plentiful today, and the first to leave the ship this morning was ‘Panoramic City’ tour. This tour provided the perfect overview and orientation of Bergen, from the comfort of a guided coach.  

‘Bergen City Highlights’ was one of the first tours to leave the ship in the afternoon. This tour again offered a splendid overview of the city, as well as a ride on the funicular up to Mount Floyen for some breathtaking views. Then stopping at Old Bergen Museum to experience typical 18th-century architecture.

The second tour to leave the ship this afternoon took passengers just outside the city limits to Troldhaughen, home to Edvard Grieg from 1885 until his death in 1907. Passengers enjoyed a guided tour around the beautifully furnished villa, followed by a recital of some of Grieg’s music. There was then some free time to explore the exhibition and the colourful picturesque garden over looking pretty Nordas Lake.

All aboard today was at 7.30pm, however most chose to arrive back a little earlier to get ready for their evening meal and night packed with a variety of entertainment.

This evening I invited the 'newcomers' to Saga cruising to join my officers and I for a cocktail party in the Discovery Lounge. I was delighted to hear such positive comments about the ship and its staff as I greeted all at the door.

The entertainment this evening kicked off with team trivia in Shakleton’s bar. Guests were then invited into the Discovery Lounge to sit back, relax and enjoy Cabaret Showtime with Elektra, a stunning Violin Duo. Their impressive and versatile repetiore included works from Bach to more contemporary pieces, including a most wonderful Bond film medley. Meanwhile The Saga Pearl II cruise staff invited our guests to the Sundowners bar to dance the night away under the stars to music from the 60’s & 70’s.

As we approached Bergen from the north, we could see on our AIS (Automatic Identification System) that another cruise ship was coming from the south. The pilot informed me that whoever got their first would have the mooring men first and the other ship would be delayed. So he suggested we speed up a little to gain the advantage. The gauntlet was thrown down, so we increased speed, all with the observance of good seamanship and safety I must add!

Looking at our system, I think the pilot on the other ship had the same idea and I could see her making a run for the berth first.

But thankfully as we sailed into the bay at Bergen,the other cruise ship was well astern, so we were able to berth without delay.

Today is the last port of call for this cruise, and we were all fast for 7.30am this morning in the city and seaport of Bergen. Surrounded by mountains and sparkling fjords, this city has a spectacular setting. There has been a settlement here since medieval times and the colourful waterfront buildings of the Haneseatic Wharf, known as Bryggen, are testament to its fascinating history of trade. In fact, Bryggen is listed by UNESCO as a Wolrd Heritage Site.

There were several tours on offer today, but the most popular trip entitled ‘Bergen City Highlights’ gave passengers the opportunity to experience the wonderful sights of this city. One of the main highlights of this excursion was a ride on the funicular up to Mount Floyen for some breathtaking views and also a stop at the Old Bergen Museum that contains a collection of charming houses representing Bergen’s typical 18th-century architecture.

Another excursion ‘Images of Grieg’ took place this afternoon giving passengers a chance to wander around the town in the morning before going on this exciting trip that reveals the legacy of Bergen’s most famous son, world-renowned composer Edvard Grieg. This 3 ¾ hour long trip took passengers to the village of Paradis to visit Troldhaugen, which was Grieg’s home from 1885 until his death in 1907. The beautifully furnished villa has been preserved just as it was when the composer died with many of his possessions, including his Steinway piano, still in situ. Also part of this delightful trip was to attend an exclusive piano recital of Grieg’s music.

On sailing, the pilot boarded and asked if he could bring his daughter which I happily agreed. On sailing, I had some guests invited to the bridge, and as we sailed out, I was explaining to them about our race this morning and how my pilot had done well, and we had seen off a challenge from another company ship. So it was a humorous incident, when the pilot taking me out, turned and said he was the pilot on the other ship! He did say my colleague on the other ship was less than happy.

This evening’s entertainment started with another per-dinner classical recital from The Smart Trio, then after dinner the Gail Davies Production Company performed their last show for this cruise, appropriately titled ‘Sailaway’.

Upon leaving Molde the previous evening, we were confronted with a poor weather forecast, with winds up to force 11. Our course was to take us outside for 175 miles so we would have experienced the worst of the weather. On talking with the pilot, I asked if there was any way we could rearrange our pilot service, and go inside the fjords to Skolden.

For about an hour, he negotiated with the Norwegian pilots. It's not that easy to change pilotage as we get our pilot schedule months in advance and have to follow it as the pilot authority is very busy in the summer with cruise ships. So much so that our original schedule had to be changed a few times with pilots changing around at short notice as the pilotage authority tried to keep with growing demand. So with this in mind, I prepared the passengers for a lumpy ride!

However, someone was smiling down on me and shortly the pilot informed me that he had arranged four pilots to guide us through the narrows of the fjords.I couldn’t believe it but was so grateful. So when I informed the guests onboard, I have a feeling they were happy!

The only downside was it was longer and we had to deviate to drop off the pilot in shelter, so sadly this delayed our arrival in Skjolden. But with 60 mph winds outside, I think everyone would accept this. As we approached the new berth in Skolden, the winds had abated and it was a calm, tranquil arrival.

We were all fast at 3.30pm this afternoon in Skjolden. It is the first time the Saga Pearl II has been here, so we had quite a welcome from the locals. This quaint little town is surrounded by precipitous hills with spectacular waterfalls, and the region is rich with dramatic rolling hillsides and verdant valleys, resplendent glacial lakes and crisp mountain air.

Skjolden is located at the end of Sognefjord which is the world’s longest fjord. The mouth of the Sognefjord is about 45 miles north of Bergen and the fjord stretches 126 miles inland to Skjolden. The fjord’s beauty and the surpassing magnitude of its landscape has made it very popular among tourists who power much of the local economy.

Some interesting tours were on offer today, a popular one on offer today was entitled ‘Scenic Sognefjell’; this entailed a scenic drive on the Sognefjell Mountain Pass which is the highest mountain road in Norway and originally opened in 1938. This scenic road offers unrivalled views across Jotunheimen National Park, home to 27 of the nation’s highest peaks.

The evening commenced with a pre-dinner Classical Recital from the Smart Trio who gave a wonderful performance as always. After dinner we welcomed back for the final time 21st Century Riot for another entertaining selection of music from the 60’s and 70’s giving people a chance to get their dancing shoes on and hit the dance floor.

This lovely little town of Molde is located on the bank of River Moldeeva, and is surrounded by breathtaking scenery of snow-capped mountains.The town is sheltered from high winds from the north and west, allowing the fragrant flowers and plants, for which it is famous, to bloom.

Our 8am arrival facilitated a fascinating full day tour to take place, an 8 ½ hour long excursion entitled ‘Trollstigen’. This trip was a chance to travel on The Golden Route which is a dramatic canyon road that ascends 2,800 feet into the mountains and passes 11 hairpin bends. After a couple of hours of the scenic drive passengers enjoyed a leisurely lunch at the Trollstigen Lodge and a stroll in the fresh mountain air. The trip then continued onto the Trollstigen, or ‘Troll Path’ which is a great feat of modern engineering that was opened in 1936, but the main sight was the ‘Troll Wall’ – the highest perpendicular rock face in Europe which towers at nearly 6,000 feet. Added to this is another wonderful tour to the ‘Atlantic Ocean Road’, a 3 ¾ hour drive along this special highway, only opened 20 years ago. This is a five-mile stretch of bridges and embankments that jumps from islet to islet across the boundless ocean, connecting Averoy with the mainland.

The cabaret show this evening saw us welcomiong some new faces to the stage - Violin Duo ‘Elektra’ with their first performance “From Bach to Bond”, for the dancers amongst us there was also a Latino Party in the Sundowners Bar, a chance to have a salsa or two with the Cruise Staff.

It was a busy night for myself and the pilots as we negotiated the narrows, twisting and turning, speeding up and slowing down as we weaved our way north to Tromso.

It was a little chilly as we arrived in Tromso first thing this morning. The city of Tromso is more than five times the size of Norway’s capital Oslo and is located 200 miles inside the Arctic Circle. In the 19th century it was a base for explorers on Arctic expeditions. Also, Tromso is known as the ‘Gateway to the Arctic’ because it was used as a starting point for hunters looking for Arctic foxes, polar bears and seals.

There was quite an extensive tour programme on offer today, but the most popular was ‘Overview of Tromso’ a three-hour outing. The highlight of this excursion was a visit at the Tromso Museum where passengers could a real insight of Norway’s indigenous people, the Sami, and learn about the challenges that face the Sami as they struggle to preserve their way of life. The ‘Polar Museum and Wilderness Centre’, was also a main attraction of this port and gave us the chance to meet some 200 huskies  that are trained to pull sledges through the harshest polar conditions – a practice known as mushing. The Polar Museum is in an old customs warehouse dating from 1830 and is home to several fascinating exhibits and displays that relate to the early polar expeditions.

At 6pm, the Smart Trio performed another beautiful pre dinner concert, and after dinner the main show commenced at 9.45pm with the Gail Davies Production Company in ‘Love Sweet Love’.

It was another early start for everyone today as we continued our journey around Norway, today we were in Leknes in the bright sunshine. Leknes is located in the Arctic Circle and backed by the impressive Himmeltindan Mountains. As we approached, the wind was extremely blustery from the NE so I was hoping for a little shelter inside the harbour.

On approach, we entered the port bay, with only 2 ships length of swinging room, we were tight for space. Luckily the wind was blowing directly down the berth heading so I decided to go straight in alongside. Again with the manoeuvrability of this ship, it is very responsive to handle. So it wasn’t long before we were all fast.

The town’s harbour Leknes Havn is one of Norway’s most important and visited harbours for cruise ships. During the months from May 26 to July 17 the midnight is above the horizon, and in the winter the sun does not rise from December 9 to January 4.

There were several excursions on offer today, but the most popular excursion was ‘Lofotr Viking Museum’. This 3 hour trip took passengers back in time of 900 years ago to get an insight of how Vikings used to live at the Viking Museum. Archaeologists made the sensational find of chieftain’s farmstead and the main house was the largest Viking building ever uncovered at some 90 yards long and 10 yards wide and a replica has been built next to the excavation site.

On sailing , with the wind , remaining high, we swung off the berth close to the jetty to give me a reference point so we didn’t drift too far. Then once the wind had blown the bow around towards the harbour entrance, it was throttles down to get steerage and out through the narrow channel up off to Tromso.

The evening on board continued with an interesting lecture by fashion adviser Amy Holland entitled ‘The Importance of Colour – What Colour Can Do for You’. But the main show tonight was ‘On the Wings of Music’ - yet another outstanding performance by internationally renowned Entertainer Bettine.

This morning, just before 8am, we arrived in the little town of Narvik that is situated in Northern Norway, near the head of Ofotfjorden. This quaint town came into existence to serve the needs of the iron industry – iron ore is mined in neighbouring Sweden, and as an ice-free port, Narvik was chosen as the ideal export location.

For berthing, again, I handed over the reigns to Wes, the Staff Captain, to berth the ship. I always remember my days as Staff Captain, wanting to have every opportunity of driving the ship, so I want to offer the same to my colleagues. As usual, he brought the ship alongside with ease.

A variety of tours were on offer today, the most popular was a trip on ‘The Ofotbanen Railway’. This 3 ½ hour trip took passengers on a 26mile railway journey to a town called Riksgransen, which is just half a mile over the Swedish border. The main purpose of this railway is to transport iron ore from Sweden to ice-free port of Narvik.

‘City Sightseeing and War History’ was another enjoyable, and historically interesting excursion. It commenced with a drive around the city before heading to the war cemetery where British, French, German, Norwegian and Polish soldiers are buried. Narvik was badly damaged during the first few months of the war and on April 9 1940 it was invaded by the Nazis.

On sailing, the wind had freshened considerably so we had to employ the use of a Tug boat to help lift the ship in the high winds. Again, for my own peace of mind, I asked the tug not to do any work, and I would try and lift the ship off the berth myself. Well again, this ship pleasantly surprises me, and she departed like a dream. So unfortunately, the tug was paid for but not used. But this is all in the interests of safety.

So we sailed out, and set course for the beautiful Lofoten islands, and port of Leknes.
Following such a busy day, it was nice to be able to sit back and enjoy The Smart Trio’s next recitals ‘A Night at Covent Garden’ prior to dinner and of course our departure from Narvik.

The evening entertainment programme continued at 9.45pm with some more dancing tunes from ‘The 21st Century Riot’ taking us back once again to the halcyon days of the 1970’s – an unbelievable 40 years ago! How time flies when you’re having fun!

At 8am we arrived in the city of Bodo that is located just north of the Arctic Circle, where the midnight sun is visible from 2 June to 10 July. Due to atmospheric refraction, there is no true polar night, but because of the mountains south of Bodo, the sun is not visible from the city from early December to early January. During the Cold War it was an important NATO base, stationing fighter jets to monitor Soviet naval vessels and aircraft.

The tour entitled ‘Bodo and the Salstraumen maelstrom’ was the most popular excursion today. This three-hour trip entailed a scenic drive through an area called Swedish Town, which was reconstructed with the help of Bodo’s Swedish neighbours after the area was bombed in 1940. After this the tour continued to one of Europe’s most remarkable natural attractions – Salstraumen, the world’s most powerful maelstrom. Every six hours, 372 million cubic metres of water passes through a deep and narrow passage just 150 metres wide where whirlpools – many up to 10 metres in diameter – formed.

For those passengers who explored independently there was the Norwegian Aviation Museum where you could learn about the city’s Cold War history and also how the situation culminated when Premier Kruschev threatened to destroy Bodo with nuclear weapons after a CIA U-2 spy plane bound for the was shot down over the Soviet Union.

The evening commenced at 6.30pm with cocktail party for our Britannia Club Members, after a delicious dinner the Gail Davies Production Company performed a vibrant show entitled ‘Musical Memories’ that took everyone on a trip back in time to some of the most popular Musical’s in the last 60 years.

As we headed North, the evening was idyllic, the cloudless sky complemented the dramatic mountain sillouettes, and a clear calm evening was ahead of us.

The run north from Trondheim to Bronnoysund was again through the coastal islands of the Norwegian Coast. So we were able to seek shelter from any swell. We were informed that there was meant to be meteor shower through the night, and as we had clear skies, whilst I passed the hours on the bridge, I kept a look out, but to no avail. My Chief Officer Graeme and Cadet Heidi said they saw them the previous night which didn’t help my disappointment!!

At 5.20am we passed south of the unique spectacle of Mount Torghatten, this rocky peak has a 160-metre-high hole in its centre, eroded over millions of years by the sea and is steeped in myths and legends of trolls. The local Norwegians call it the “Hole in the hat” , and the myth is that a legendary Horseman, out of anger, pummelled the mountain with stone and made the hole!

I knew we would get to Bronnoysund on time as our Pilot was born here and he was going to visit his mother and sister, so I suggested they come onboard for lunch.

Again in glorious sunshine we arrived in Bronnoysund at 8am.  This lovely small seaside town lies approximately halfway down Norway’s rugged coast, in the south of the Nordland region. Along its shores is a wealth of dramatic coastal scenery There were four tours available today, but the most popular were ‘The Vega Archipelago’ and ‘Nervernes Havn and Skarsasen Fort’.

The trip entitled ‘The Vega Archipelago’ was a six-hour excursion to the island of Vega which is UNESCO World Heritage Site and is situated just south of the Arctic Circle.  The island was awarded heritage status due to the unique tradition of harvesting eider duck down in this inhospitable environment. The highlight of this tour was a visit to the E-House Museum where our passengers could get an insight into down and egg collection and also how eider harvesting has sustained the population for some 1,500 years.

The other excursion entitled ‘Nervernes Havn and Skarsasen’ was a 4 ½ hour trip to the idyllic location of Nervernes Havn which gave a fascinating insight into the coastal heritage of southern Heldeland from the 16th Century to the present day. The main highlight of this trip was a chance to see an exceptional collection of war memorabilia from World War II at Naevernes Gaard where uniform, personal effects, equipment and firearms are on display. Also another main highlight was a visit to Skarsasen which has remains of a German World War II coastal fort that housed four large guns.

We sailed again in glorious sunshine, how lucky we have been with the weather.

At 9.45pm it was Cabaret Showtime with internationally renowned entertainer flautist ‘Bettine Clemen’, who gave a fantastic performance of Classical and Popular Music featuring magnificent films from around the world, something unique but nevertheless enjoyed by the assembled audience.

It had been a very busy night, from leaving Floro, as we had weaved our way through the coastal islands . We had local pilots onboard, but maritime law states that as the Captain, the responsibility of the ship is still my responsibility, one I take very seriously, so I was again on the bridge with the pilots overnight

As we started our approach, I handed the ships con to Wes, the Staff Captain, who brought the ship alongside. It is always a great comfort having someone so good as your right hand man, and Wes is a well respected member of the team. He berthed the ship with ease and confidence, as I knew he would.

It was a lovely bright morning when we arrived in Trondheim at 8am. Trondheim is the third largest city of Norway and lies on a sheltered peninsula on the southern shore of the deeply indented Trondheimsfjorden at the mouth of the Nidelva River.

Of the three tours on offer today, the most popular was ‘Panoramic Trondheim’. This excursion took passengers on a journey on the Grakall Line Trolley which originally opened in 1924. The line goes through the streets of Trondheim where there are colourful wooden houses that date from the mid – 19th century and also up to Byasen Hill for spectacular views of the River Nid. Also for some passengers that went ashore independently there was a couple of car exhibitions in the town including restored vintage cars such as Corvette, Ford Mustang and the Cadillac.

On departure, it was a little more difficult as the wind had increased from the west, as it does. For some reason, the local authorities built the pier at 90 degrees to the prevailing winds which makes berthing/unberthing difficult.

So we had to wiggle the ship out, the drive astern away from the quay. Once spun around, we were clear. As the fjord was wide, I left the ship in the capable hands of Wes, Staff Captain, and nipped down to the Newcomers Party to host and say a few words.

After a delightful dinner the show was something a bit different – ‘21st Century Riot’ which is a 60’s/70’s group. It was a fun evening as passengers and some of the ships company had a boogie along to the music ending the evening on a high.

On leaving Stavanger, we decided to take the scenic route to Floro, going inside all the fjords to give our passengers something to look at as we sailed by. So we wove our way through the narrow channels, squeezed between rocky outcrops and marvelled at the stunning scenery as the sun rose on this beautiful morning.

We arrived at the port at 7.20am, but were not allowed to berth until the Hurtigruten Coastal ferry had berthed. So I took the opportunity to swing the ship around and hold position whilst the ferry arrived and departed. We were soon alongside and all fast. Shortly after berthing I took to bed, as I had been up all night with the pilot, as this is where my responsibilities lie, and whilst I was catching up on “beauty Sleep”, the Staff Captain looked after things whilst alongside.

Floro is Norway's most westerly town. This charming little town is surrounded by pretty islands on the Norwegian coast. Originally established as a base for the herring industry, today it has services for the offshore oil industry, which provide good jobs for the community. The supply base for the offshore oilfields is a busy part of the harbour.

There were several tours on offer today, but the most popular excursion was entitled ‘Coastal Contrasts and the Black Friday Museum’ which took our passengers on a 5 ½ hour trip to the village of Naustdal. The main highlight of this tour was a visit to the Black Friday Museum which documents the biggest dogfight fought out in the skies over Norway during World War II. Whilst at the museum our passengers enjoyed a light lunch of local cuisine before heading off on a drive along the shores of Fordefjord and Heilefjellet. Another highlight was a chance to see some of the biggest rock carving fields in Europe. Some of the carvings are 3,000 years old depicting humans, animals, fertility and agricultural symbols.

Another chance to dance was the opener to the evening, hosted by Cruise Director Tanya Whitehurst, and then the evening continued with The Smart Trio who performed their second classical recital. Also, as this cruise is themed 60’s & 70’s we had a 60’s party in the Sundowners bar and the passengers enjoyed reliving the memories of some classic tunes whilst enjoying the passing fjordland scenery.

At 8am in glorious sunshine we arrived in Stavanger, our first port of call for this cruise.

Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Stavanger has always prospered from the riches of the sea. During the 19th century huge harvests of brisling and herring established it as the sardine capital of the world. During the past two and half decades, a different product from the sea has been Stavanger’s lifeblood – oil. Since its discovery in the late 1960s, North Sea oil has transformed both the economy and lifestyle of the city.

Of the four that were available today, the most popular was the ‘Introduction to Stavanger’, which involved a nice drive around some of the local sights. However, the main highlight was a stop at Ledaal Manor, former home of writer Alexander Kielland and now the King’s residence when he is in town. Another well attended tour entitled ‘Lysefjord Boat Trip’ involved three hours in the Lysefjord itself taking in views of Helleren, that is an overhanging cliff used as a shelter to the people that fished and hunted in the area. This was also chance to see the famous Pulpit Rock, which is a flat and protruding rock formation that towers more than 1,800 feet above sea level.

At 6pm the evening commenced with a pre-dinner Classical Concert featuring The Smart Trio and after dinner the entertainment continued with Former member of The New Seekers Marty Kristian, who spoke of his rise to fame in the group and brought many bygone memories back to life.

Our arrival in Dover this morning turned from being run of the mill, to unexpected and challenging. One of the challenges of using Dover Port is having to come into the narrow eastern entrance, with our large ships, with strong cross currents. So as you approach you do a balancing act, set the ship up to balance between the wind and the current and you have a controlled drift through the piers.

This morning, because of extremely strong tides, the Port had strict restrictions on arrivals. Sadly when we arrived, the pilot said they were not happy to take us in until the current eased off so we had to wait for two hours outside the harbour. However, quick thinking by all onboard kept the passengers amused, fed and watered a bit longer than was expected.

When we were given the go ahead to approach, the wind was blowing 40 knots. In situations like this, a lot happens and you have to work closely as a team. As we were just about to go through the piers, a ferry in front of us was having great difficulty berthing and was blocking our channel, so at the last minute we had to abort our approach. Only the second time in 10 years that I have had to do this!!

So we re-aligned and the second attempt went well. Due to the very strong winds I had employed the use of the ports tugs but again as we manoeuvred off the berth, I asked them just to sit there and take no action, and our ship once again manoeuvred beautifully and we were all fast alongside just before midday.The team onboard, stored the ship, disembarked and embarked all the passengers and despite being four hours late berthing, we left on time with a weary crew, but a dedicated one. They will sleep well tonight and what a great job they did.

The first day of the cruise is always exciting, meeting the passengers who are joining us in our adventures for the voyage to Norway and after dinner it was time to make a start to the cruise.  Showtime commenced with an opener from The Gail Davies Production Company, followed by some introductions to some of the ship’s personnel by Cruise Director Tanya Whitehurst and a brief explanation of the cruise, ship and entertainment to come over the coming two weeks.

As we had an hour forward this evening, most passengers decided to go to bed early as they had been travelling all day to reach the vessel. But for the hardier amongst us, the evening continued with some music for dancing featuring the Saga Pearl II Orchestra and the Gentlemen Hosts before everyone retired for some well earned rest.

At 8am we docked in Malmo, but unfortunately the weather had taken a turn for the worst and drizzle greeted us as we headed on the quay. Malmo was Denmark’s second largest city during the 17th century, but after the signing of the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658 it became a Swedish possession and has remained Swedish ever since.

There were two tours today, ‘Panoramic Malmo’ for those passengers who did not want to do anything strenuous, and yet they could took in the sights such as The Turning Torso that is 623 feet high with 54 stories and also the Great Square which dates from 1546. The other tour today was a walking tour entitled ‘Malmo City Tour and Malmohus Castle’. This excursion commenced with a visit to Malmohus Castle that was originally a 15th century citadel and is now one of the oldest Renaissance buildings in Scandinavia. After a visit here the passengers continued back to Malmo to start their walking tour around the old town with one of the main attractions being Apoteket Lejonet, Malmo’s oldest pharmacy founded in 1571.

After an enjoyable morning, it was all aboard at 12.30pm. A busy programme of fun activities and a lecture by TV Producer /Director Harold Snoad entitled ‘The Good Old Days of TV Sitcom.’ It helped to till up the rest of the afternoon.

The evening commenced 6.30pm with our Farewell Cocktail Party then onto a lovely dinner before enjoying another entertaining performance by The Spectacular Gail Production Company in a show appropriately titled ‘Sailaway’.

It was an early start this morning as we docked at 7am in the former fishing village of Warnemunde. This intriguing resort has ten miles of golden sands that stretch along Germany’s north-east coast, where the River Warnow flows into the Baltic. It is also a host to a number of events throughout the sailing calendar and today we had the chance to look at some stunning Tall Ships, which certainly was an exciting experience, as the port celebrated the Hansa sailing week.

The first tour commenced at 7.15am - a full day to Berlin. This twelve-hour marathon started with the long, but scenic drive to Berlin through the lakelands of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern before reaching former was torn city. After seeing the sites such as Alexander Platz Square, home of Berlin’s Television Tower, passengers embarked on a pleasure cruiser for a sedate cruise along the Spree. Whilst on board a three course lunch was served before they disembarked at Charlottenburg Castle. The tour continued on with a Champagne reception on top of the Reichstag before heading to Potsdam Square to take a look at the notorious Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.

‘The Molli and Minster’ stayed closer to home and involved a drive through some beautiful countryside before arriving at Bad Doberan where a stop was made to see the 700 year old red-brick church ‘Minster’ that has relics dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. The Molli is a narrow – gauge steam train and after a 30min ride relieving passengers enjoyed a coffee and a cake at the beautiful beach resort of Kuhlungsborn before heading back to the ship.

All through the day, the port was filled with Sailing vessel, old steam ships, pleasure craft, Kayaks , and various other modes of transport on water. It was a spectacular sight with everyone blowing their horns to celebrate the Sailing festival.

The evening on board commenced with a pre-dinner classical recital by The Divertimento Piano Quartet. As it was a lovely evening we had a BBQ outside the Sundowners Bar, which was enjoyed in the balmy climate. The night continued with Comedian Ray Turner in the Discovery Lounge whilst upstairs in the Sundowners Bar it was 60’s & 70’s Disco Night. Just prior to sailing at about 10.30pm we were fortunate enough to see a spectacular firework display which was part of the local Tall Ship festivities.

We then sailed away, into a mass of small craft, determined not to get out our way, but nearly 20,000 tons of steel is no match for a small fibreglass hull, so they gingerly moved out of our way.It was a great end to a fabulous day.

Just before 9am in brilliant sunshine we berthed in Visby, which is situated on the island of Gotland approximately 60miles form the Swedish mainland. Visby is a beautifully preserved medieval port which is named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Known as the ‘town of roses and ruins’, this unique location is one the most important reminders of the Hanseatic League, featuring cobbled streets and architectural relics of bygone times.

The ‘Vikings and Surroundings’ tour was very scenic and gave passengers the chance to visit one of many early Gothic churches that is situated in Gotland, however, there were two main sights to see -one being a burial mound dating from the Bronze Age and Tofta Village which gave passengers an interesting insight into the Viking way of life.  Another tour was ‘Visby and Central Gotland’ where passengers could appreciate breathtaking views of the city from Hogklint which is home to wild coastal flowers and sea birds, and afterwards enjoy a short walk around the old town of Visby which is lined with cobbled streets and is surrounded by a bustling atmosphere.

On departure this evening, Wes, the Staff Captain, and Matt, the Safety officer, took the ship away again expertly, so I was able to enjoy the scenery (with one eye on proceedings), but being two very professional chaps, I didn’t have to worry at all.

The evening commenced with another yet wonderful pre-dinner recital from The Divertimento Piano Quartet. The cabaret show that followed dinner was a hilarious performance from Comedian Ray Turner, however, up in the Sundowners Bar it was a Country & Western Hoedown where passengers could have a boogie-woogie line dance with some of the ships company… yeehaa!

With an hour back on the clocks last night everyone was up and raring to in time for our 8am arrival into Tallinn, Estonia. At 8am we arrived in Tallinn. A beautiful and curious place, where the cosmopolitan brushes shoulders with the medieval in a tale of three cities: the ancient citadel, the old town, and the modern city. This UNESCO world Heritage Site offers a truly magical experience and has one of the most beautifully preserved medieval centres in Europe.

A popular way to see this unique destination was on a 4-hour walk around ‘Tallinn Old Town’. This took passengers around sites such as the Russian Orthodox Church of Alexander Nevsky and the 13th-century Gothic Dome Church, with breathtaking views across the gabled rooftops and soaring spires, they then moved onto the 15th-century Blackheads Fraternity House for a folk show and refreshments. 

Another tour entitled ‘Tallinn Highlights’ was a well attended tour with the main attraction being a visit to the central park of Kadriog, which was founded by Peter the Great and is the setting for the baroque palace of Catherine. Also ‘Panoramic Tallinn’ available and passengers enjoyed stunning views from Tall Herman Tower, one of the three remaining towers of the Knights of the Sword Castle.

At 6.30pm we had a cocktail party for our Britannia Club & Free Spirited Members, and after a lovely dinner, The Spectacular Gail Davies Production Company performed a lively and entertaining show entitled ‘Love Sweet Love’.

Following our overnight stay in St. Petersburg we were ready for another varied mix of shore excursions. In fact, there was even a brand new tour ‘Gulf of Finland Panoramic Drive’. This 4 ½ hour tour entailed a panoramic drive off-the-beaten track to one of the most picturesque areas outside St. Petersburg – the Resort District. This area is located on the Karelian Isthmus along the northern shore of the Gulf of Finland.

There was also an all day trip entitled ‘Royal Palaces and Parks of Peterhof’. Peterhof was the summer residence of the Russian Tsars and the Grand Palace was originally built for Peter the Great in the early 18th Century, but it was then was it was remodelled by Rastrelli for Peter’s daughter, Elizabeth between 1747 – 1756. Another attraction there was the Lower Gardens, featuring 150 fountains, four cascades, pavilions and palaces overlooking the Gulf of Finland.

But by far the most popular excursion today was ‘Hermitage and the Gold Room’. This 4-hour long excursion took our passengers to the fabulous Hermitage Museum. The State Hermitage is Russia’s most famous museum, founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great as her own private museum, there are collections by Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Rembrant amongst others, and not forgetting the famous Peacock Clock. The highlight of this tour was a visit to the Gold Room. Assembled over two centuries, the significant collection includes jewellery dating from the Scythians and ancient Greeks to the 19th Century, together with works by famous jewellers including Faberge.

I knew that sailing out was going to be interesting. You have to turn the ship across the fast flowing river, with only about 20 metres either end of the ship, the obstacles being other cruises ships tied up on either bank of the river, tankers and 2 nuclear submarines. So no pressure!.

The advantage was having done this manoeuvre quite a few times on our various ships, I knew what to expect and what the ship would do. I ordered a small tugboat to make fast on the aft end of the ship, to assist in giving more power to engines, as this was going to hold the stern up into the river. Nothing was required at the bow, as when we started to allow the bow to fall off its heading and get the river current on the starboard bow, it naturally turned 180 degrees and pointed down river, all the time us holding the stern in one position as a pivot point.

Anyway all went well and we headed down river in searing heat and sunshine. Once clear of the port we set course and speed for another beautiful City, Tallin.

The evening entertainment commenced at 9.00pm with a lively dance set that was hosted by Cruise Director Tanya and the cruise staff, followed by a cabaret show with international entertainer Steve Galler, who gave another lively performance on his banjo.

After a morning at sea we arrived in Helsinki pilot station at 10.30am. It was a glorious morning, a complete contrast to the previous in Stockholm. We embarked our pilot from their pilot island, affectionaltely know by us as “Tracy island”, as it is a little island that houses the pilots, a control tower - with all sorts of radar and aerials, and a little harbour for the pilot boats.

Once onboard we sailed in through the usual narrows. Being on a slightly smaller ship than my previous Saga Rose, they didn’t seem as intimidating. The wind was quite fresh blowing us onto the berth but using the ships improved manoeuvrability. I used the engines and thrusters to hold the ship into the wind, and reduced power a little to let the ship drift in a controlled manner towards the berth.

We were all fast at 11.30am. The city’s grand architecture reveals a mixture of Swedish, Russian and international influences and it is often called the ‘white city of the north’, as many of its buildings are made from local light-coloured granite.

Two tours took place today, the most popular being 'Helsinki Highlights'. This tour gave our passengers a chance to discover the unique and beautiful sights of Helsinki including the largest Orthodox Church in Scandinavia and the Carl Ludvig Engel’s neo – classical Senate Square that was built in the 19th Century. The other tour on offer today entitled ‘Sibelius Experience’, which gave our passenger’s who are interested in classical music the chance to see the home of Finland’s most Ffmous composer, Jean Sibelius. His home near Lake Tuusula has been preserved as it was during the family’s lifetime and still contains the original furnishings.

On departure, I asked Wes, the Staff Captain to take the ship away, and Matthew Henderson, who is presently our Safety officer, but will be promoted to Staff Captain, to assume the role as Staff Captain, meaning I could sit back and watch - well, obviously I have to supervise but really with these two competent chaps, there wasn’t much to do and a text book departure was made onto our next stop, St Petersburg.

At 6.00pm ‘The Divertimento Trio’ performed a pre-dinner recital and this was followed after dinner with the return of the fabulous ‘Paul Emmanuel’.