Saga Pearl II Captain's blog

May 2010

Dunkirk, France

May 30, 2010 - 11:22 pm

Yesterday we began this very special cruise called ‘Remembering Dunkirk’– a week of experiences that, I am sure, will be both fascinating and emotive. Having said farewell to our guests that had joined us for our superb Baltic cruise, the ship's company had just three hours to make the Saga Pearl II ship-shape before we began embarking our ‘new’ guests. It never fails to impress me how the crew ‘click’ into action.

Shortly before 2pm our passengers were making their way up the gangway where our stewards were waiting to escort them to their cabins. After settling in many made their way to the Discovery Lounge for Afternoon Tea.

We were to sail from Dover and our tours began even before we left. Needless to say, the white cliffs of Dover go hand in hand with memories of WWII, and so we had decided to take our guests on a late afternoon tour of the secret wartime tunnels – a feature of Dover that is rarely open to the public . At 5.30pm coaches were waiting at the quayside and the tours began a staggered departure from the ship and everyone without exception returned to us two hours later full of compliments on how fascinating the experience had been – it certainly sparked much of last night’s dinner conversation.

Following dinner, all of our passengers were invited to the Discovery Lounge for a presentation by Major General Stephen Carr-Smith on Dunkirk and the landings, Stephen is a most excellent speaker and the Lounge was filled to capacity for his compelling presentation. This weekend has seen many commemorative services and celebrations of the event which saw the rescue of some 330,000 men from the beaches at Dunkirk and we left Dover at 8.30pm last night to join these acts of remembrance and to follow in the path of those heroic little ships.

I must tell you that, as itineraries go, the short hop across the channel from Dover to Dunkirk, looked, on paper at least to be one of the simplest little journeys that I have ever begun a cruise with. I had fully anticipated to be in Dunkirk by midnight – all did not fall into place quite so easily. The weather in the channel chose not to be quite so accommodating. What is more, I had been informed that we would not pick up our pilot until the morning so I decided, rather than bob up and down in the channel with the potential of deteriorating weather,  that we should anchor in shelter just outside Deale – seemed like a good alternative plan.

At 3am we attempted to lift our anchor only to find that by a stroke of chance that must have slimmer odds than a lottery win, our anchor had become entangled in an abandoned anchor that lay on the channel bed just where we had dropped anchor. After three attempts of lifting and dropping our anchor we managed to de-tangle ourselves. As a result we arrived in Dunkirk an hour later than planned at just after 9am, having negotiated the complicated system of channels and canals that led almost into the city centre itself, I was very impressed with our pilots manoeuvres.  Of course, all of this meant that our passengers could enjoy a more leisurely breakfast until we were safely alongside with our gangway in place. The best laid plans and all that.....................

The weather today was strangely suitable and appropriate to the sombre mood of the anniversary – it was for the most part dry and overcast as our various tours departed. Without doubt, the tour that most people selected today was the ‘Dunkirk Spirit’ excursion – so widely chosen in fact that we had both a morning and afternoon departure for this trip. This took guests to the harbour to see the little ships and to the beaches and later to the memorial, where each of the eight coaches were given a wreath to lay by a nominated passenger on behalf of the Saga Pearl II – very moving. One of the coaches included our ship’s Chaplain, Archdeacon Arthur Hawes who gave a prayer and brief service at the memorial and placed a wreath himself. All of our wreaths had a card and the words written were those of Wilfred Owen

“ They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.”
From all of us that are ‘Remembering Dunkirk’  on the Saga Pearl II

Until tomorrow – I shall leave you as we all contemplate those words together.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Ronne, Denmark

May 27, 2010 - 11:00 pm

Our final port for this Baltic cruise, we have spent the day in Ronne, on the island of Bornholm just off Denmark – connected to the outside world by ferry lines this charming island was once part of Sweden. In more recent times on the 7th and 8th May 1945, Ronne was bombed by Soviet aircraft. Much of the city was destroyed and with the help of the Swedes, 225 wooden houses were built which remain today.

Today I had the opportunity to stretch my legs for a while and went for a walk along the dock. In all honesty, when we arrived a boat had caught my eye from the bridge and I was curious to take a look. It was berthed a little ahead of us, an old folk boat that looked as though it had been long forgotten. I was more than a little tempted to make an offer for it. I wandered further hoping to find someone who knew something about it. I heard some noise coming from an old boat shed and put my head in – it made my day. By happy co-incidence this ramshackle shed was home to an association that restore old boats and inside the shed was a workshop come boating museum – my stroll and curiosity had paid dividends and I spent a couple of hours in my element.

Today our guests had an equally pleasurable time in Ronne; there were a selection of tours including a scenic drive for those that wanted to enjoy the town in quiet contemplation and a walking tour for the more active, which took our passengers through the cobbled streets to see the sights of this 700-year-old settlement.

Tonight it was time to say farewell as I hosted the ‘Farewell Cocktail Party’  - the room was filled with conversation about the sights, experiences and memories that this cruise has given us. Saga Pearl II is quickly establishing herself as a very special member of the Saga shipping family – she has embraced the warm feeling that our crew have brought with them from Saga Rose and Saga Ruby. As I greeted our guests this evening I was delighted to hear so many words of praise and I do hope to see many of those faces again so that we may make more memories together.

Tomorrow we end this cruise as we began, sailing through the scenery of the Kiel Canal, and on Saturday we shall return to Dover. Our next cruise is a very special one indeed, ‘Remembering Dunkirk’ – I shall keep you posted - many thanks blog-followers.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Gdynia, Poland

May 26, 2010 - 11:15 pm

It’s a while since I last sailed into Gydinia. The memory of the docking manoeuvre soon came flooding back. Our pilot boarded at 7am and after discussing the docking plan we both agreed that we turn the ship round and berth starboard side-to. With about 20kts of wind blowing I decided to use a tug to spin the Pearl II round in the restricted area adjacent to our berth.

There was even more blue skies and sunshine as we berthed in Gdynia, something of a holiday resort for the people of Poland. Just five minutes from the shuttle bus drop off point there was a very pleasant coastal and Marina walk – ideal for guests that wanted to take the day at their own pace – and I think that many did just that. After all, it has been a cruise and a half when it comes to sightseeing.

A nice story to share with you today – we often say that it is a small world – earlier on this cruise, Mr Bryan Wilson and his wife Elisabeth were sitting onboard when, another guest, Mrs Anne Roberts passed by. Mr Wilson looked at Mrs Roberts and vice versa. They knew that they recognised each other and so struck up a conversation to work out how. It transpired that Bryan and Anne last saw one another some 70 years ago. They used to sit side by side as friends every day on the school bus – and who would have thought that 70 years on their paths would cross again on this cruise to the Baltic. I had my photograph taken with them last night and will give them each a copy so that they can remember this unexpected reunion.

Tonight was another night of fun – our singing and dancing troupe gave tonight’s cabaret with their usual flare and gusto – this evening's show was called ‘Love Sweet Love’. The audience were in good spirit having been warmed up by our ‘Call My Bluff’ game show – a great bit of fun that featured our Staff Captain Simon, Hotel Director Fabrice and our John, with Tanya doing a great job in bringing some sense to the event. It’s just like the television show - there are around half a dozen silly sounding words which are given definitions by the aforementioned panel – only one panellist tells the truth and it is up to the audience to identify the honest officer – great fun.

Tomorrow we visit our final destination, Ronne in Denmark, before we begin our homeward journey, returning through the Kiel Canal en-route for Dover. I shall write to you again tomorrow – thank you once again for reading blog-followers.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Klaipeda, Lithuania

May 25, 2010 - 11:30 pm

We have spent today in Klaipeda, Lithuania. It’s history is an interesting one; the Teutonic Knights built a castle here and named the city Memelburg, later that name was shortened to Memel. From 1252 until 1923 the city was officially known as Memel and in 1945 due to political changes the name of Klaipeda was officially adopted.

Klaipeda is Lithuania’s only seaport and has ferry connections to both Sweden and Germany. We arrived at 8.00am this morning and although the sun is still shining it is now considerably colder, the temperature has been around 11C all day. We understand that back home there has been something of heat wave over the last few days, which is petering out at the moment. It has been very similar for us.

Today the range of tours were, as always, varied – Cassie and Grazia providing something to suit everyone and for those that did not want to join an organized excursion there was always the complimentary shuttle bus, taking guests from the ship into the city at half-hourly intervals.

Guests are all very different – we have some who head off on the very first shuttle bus, donned with walking boots and back packs, taking with them a packed lunch (which our chef gladly provides onboard if requested) and walk for miles, exploring our ports of call and returning on the very last bus. Whilst others take a bus into the city at mid-morning and very often stay on that same bus before returning directly to the ship – having satisfied their curiosity with a brief look around. So there really is, as I say, something for everyone.


One of today’s most popular tours was the ‘Best of Neringa’. Our passengers were taken by ferry to Neringa, which, according to legend, was home of the giantess Neringa, who, it is said divided the sea from the lagoon to protect the fishermen. The region is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the day was spent visiting Juodkrante -  the oldest fishing village in Lithuania, and Amber Bay – named after the precious resin that is found there. Later there was a coffee stop and a visit to the Mizgiris Amber Gallery with its incredible exhibition of jewellery.

Once back onboard I was delighted to have the opportunity to hold a ‘Songs of Praise’ church service at 5.30pm. Our Filipino Choir gave a superb rendition of hymns to rapturous applause. Fernando, who has been with the company since it began (before it officially began actually – he was with us when we chartered cabins on the very first Russian ships) and Ramon, our safety carpenter, led the choir.  It astounds me how our crew find the time to rehearse and they never fail to impress me with the talented displays they create time and time again, I cannot thank them enough – they really are, as many of you will know, the personality behind Saga cruising.

Another lovely day turned into a lovely night – courtesy of a very special and very gifted ‘old’ friend of Saga. I say ‘old’ in inverted commas because she is a young lady that we have not seen for around 18 months – Nicola Loud. Nicola is a violinist with extraordinary talent. At 15 she won the BBC’s Young Musician of the Year and has since hosted the annual event. She has performed all over the world and is always a firm favourite with Saga. Tonight Nicola literally ‘wowed’ our guests with her cabaret in the Discovery Lounge and I understand that she will be sailing with us on the Saga Pearl II later in the year – something to look forward to.

More immediately, we look forward to tomorrow’s port of call – Gdynia in Poland. We should be alongside by 8.00am and I shall keep you posted. The second week of this cruise is really flying by.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Visby, Sweden

May 24, 2010 - 11:00 pm

Last night we all gained a very welcome extra hour on the clocks and so we arrived at 9am this morning in Visby – arguably the best preserved medieval city in Scandinavia.

As we approached our berth the pilot told me that the name ‘Visby’ comes from the old Norse word ‘vis’ meaning sacrificial place and I also learned that Visby is a popular holiday destination for Scandinavians during the summer. Our pilot was a happy chap, an ex RCCL man and new other colleagues of mine in the industry. It’s a small world indeed. On the Observation deck above the Bridge the regular group of hardy passengers under the command of fellow passenger Captain Andrew Trail, all the way from Australia (Barrier Reef pilots), assisted me to bring the ship alongside. It was a tight squeeze but with our powerful bow thruster and twin props and rudders I spun the ship round in her own length and berthed port side to the quay.

It has been another fine day on the weather front – the skies have been blue, although it is no longer ‘shirt-sleeve’ weather – the temperature has been around 17C.

Today’s ‘easier’ excursion was the ‘Viking and Surroundings Tour’ firstly taking our guests by coach to Almedalen, giving superb views of Visby. The coach then paid a visit to the fishing village of Gnisvard, home to a Bronze Age burial mound before stopping at Tofta village; a living museum where passengers were greeted by a Viking and given an insight into the Viking way of life including displays of cookery and jewellery making amongst others.

The other options today were for the hardier sightseer – The ‘Visby City walk’ gave a rewarding guided walk around the city, I am told that a highlight was the stroll through the Botanical Gardens which display a whole host of exotic plants including the rare ‘Holy Gingko’ tree - considered to be a living fossil – such a wonderful name.

It has been an educational day for me – I now know the meaning behind the name Visby and have learned a little about horticulture – and so I was glad tonight to enjoy a little light fun. We set sail at 6pm and the Eberle Quartet gave us another triumphant recital of popular classics before dinner and later at 9.45pm it was time for a laugh – as the Discovery Lounge played host to Bob Webb, a first class comedian. Bob has sailed with us on all of our ships and tonight was his first performance on Saga Pearl II – as always, wherever he entertains, the room is quickly filled with laughter – such a wonderful sound  – thank you Bob even though you to liberties with my name! Next time it’s “walking the plank” or the “cat on nine tails”!!

As we move from country to country so the clocks keep changing – tonight we lose an hour, and so, it’s farewell from me for now until we reach Klaipeda in Lithuania tomorrow – take care until then.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Tallinn, Estonia

May 23, 2010 - 11:06 pm

Of all the places visited in a Baltic cruise, Tallinn is the destination that most people express an interest in returning to for a holiday and understandably so. It is a beautifully curious city – it’s medieval old town and walled citadel with cobbled streets and beautifully preserved architecture is picture postcard perfect. Here the squares are the ideal place to sit, enjoy a drink and watch the world pass by. Meanwhile, within five minutes walk there is the new cosmopolitan Tallinn that is home to no less than six theatres, a bustling shopping centre and smart new hotels.

Tallinn is the capital of the Estonian republic and this coastal settlement is just 53 miles from Helsinki across the gulf of Finland. Tallinn is famous throughout the Baltic for its song festivals where massed choirs sing to packed audiences in a huge open air stadium. Closer to my heart – sailing is an important recreation here, Tallinn-made yachts are renowned, and it was in 1980 that the city hosted the yachting events for the Moscow Olympics. My younger brother Edward was in the British Olympic team representing the 470 class.

Once again it was an 8.00am arrival – we had anticipated a cooling in the temperatures – however, once again we have been blessed as the sun still shines warmly on us. Tallinn is the perfect city for independent exploration, particularly the old part, throughout the day our shuttle bus dropped our passengers at the gates to the old quarter, picking up those that wanted to return the ship at half hour intervals.

For those who wished to join one of our guided excursions there was the opportunity to learn about the medieval city on  the ‘Tallinn Old Town Tour’ – this popular walking tour took guests through the pedestrianised  streets of the old city, afterwards guests could choose to remain in the town or return to the Saga Pearl II for lunch before heading back in.

Cassie and Grazia also had other excursions to offer, the ‘Tallinn Highlights’ and ‘Panoramic Tallinn’ tours offered a wider look at Tallinn both old and new. The Panoramic option being ideal for those that wanted a leisurely overview of this Baltic City and its points of interest by guided coach.

This evening we sailed at 5pm, and I was accompanied on the Bridge not only by the pilot but also by four special ladies who were prize winners; having entered the ‘Nostalgia Night Quiz’ a few evenings ago they were victorious and the prize that had been negotiated by the quiz master – our John Parton - was to join me on the Bridge for a champagne sail-away. Needless to say, I could not join them with the champagne, however I  must say the company was ‘sparkling’ enough and I do hope that Catherine and Anne and their friends enjoyed the experience.

The champagne kept flowing at 6.30pm as I hosted our Britannia Club Cocktail Party – I have explained the Britannia Club in previous blogs and as you will be aware the party is a celebration of our loyalty club. Having said that, the event has become more than this and it is very much a meeting of old friends and for us at Saga every time we hold one, I certainly feel that we are not only giving a party, but we are accepting a wonderful compliment from our guests by the very fact that they have chosen to return to us – and for all the Britannia Club members that read this – a special thank you on behalf of us all.

It is always lovely to enjoy a formal evening onboard and tonight I hosted a most delightful table, it is fascinating to meet people from so many interesting walks of life and life is full of funny co-incidences. The charming lady to my left this evening knew one of our Officers from his previous career. Marianne used to be a make-up lady at ITV and fondly remembers ‘making up’ our afore-mentioned John Parton during his time there. Given the fact that this dear lady had endured this task on a daily basis – which must have been akin to painting the Forth Bridge – she deserved a special night (only joking John). In fact, the whole table were lively company, the food was magnificent (especially the beef tenderloin – well done again Gavin) and it has been an absolutely great evening.

As I write this, our guests are enjoying another trip to Broadway so to speak, as Tanya presents our singers and dancers in a new show called ‘Musical Memories’. Tonight we gain another hour back on the clock, both our passengers and crew will certainly be grateful for that. Tomorrow we return to Sweden, this time, Visby.

Until then - farewell for now blog-followers.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

St Petersburg, Russia

May 22, 2010 - 10:32 pm

We have spent two days here in St. Petersburg - as I said on my last blog - the highlight of any Baltic cruise and a city that is filled with such an interesting history, a history that many of us are familiar with. The Russian Revolution has long been a subject of fascination and it is strangely ironic that the very fabric of St Petersburg, the opulent buildings adorned with gold and the palaces filled with treasures that were the source of objection and discontent that led to the revolution, are the very buildings and treasures that are being restored to their former glory in order to bring tourism and money into the country.

Every year the changes are significant, and the restoration ever more impressive. The absolutely magnificent palaces and historical buildings that fill St. Petersburg require constant maintenance and the improvements over the last ten years are marked.

We arrived yesterday at 8am with the usual trepidation regarding immigration - Russia is always an unknown quantity, and ship clearance can take some time. We were pleasantly surprised - not only have we been berthed at a most impressive brand new terminal but we were clear for guests to begin the shore excursions swiftly and efficiently. It is worth explaining that the best way to visit Russia is by cruise – all visitors require a visa here and our Pursers Department arrange a group tour visa before we arrive. This visa allows our guests to travel in groups on organised excursions which are certainly the safest way to see the city.

At Saga all of our excursions are not only accompanied by a qualified local guide – but we also send a ship’s escort with the tours. We feel this is most important, to have a familiar face from the ship’s crew accompanying the groups ashore – the escort is a point of contact for our passengers and can monitor whether the tour is going to plan – they also carry a first aid kit, have a mobile phone to contact the ship if required and most importantly – have a supply of boiled sweets (usually Werther’s Originals) to hand out on the coach.

The last two days have been filled with excursions of every description, visiting palaces and cathedrals, and beautifully planted gardens. The Spilled Blood Cathedral is always a popular sight to see – it is almost unreal with its brightly coloured spires, ‘Disney-like’. Of course, one of the other major attractions has been the Hermitage Museum – based at Catherine the Great's Winter Palace, it has the largest collection of artwork in the world amongst three million other treasures. Another ‘must see’ highlight are the gardens at the Peterhoff Palace – the gilt golden fountains that line the approach to the palace are remarkable – words cannot express the decoration and architecture that fill this city.

Last night our guests returned after full day excursions and their enthusiasm for absorbing Russian culture showed no sign of waning. After a swift dinner, many gathered in the Discovery Lounge to be put into coach groups to head off to see the Russian Ballet - Swan Lake, others chose to go and watch the Folkloric Show at the Nevsky Prospect Theatre. Both displays of culture were greatly appreciated and as we stood on the gangway to welcome our passengers ‘home’ at 10.30pm the compliments were many.

This morning at 8am the tours began once again – some passengers taking both morning and afternoon excursions – for these die hard sight-seers we provided packed lunches.

Last night with most of the ship ashore our Discovery Lounge was transformed into a cinema for the evening – the film was the hit ‘Frost/Nixon’ based on the famous David Frost interview with former President Richard Nixon. I must admit to watching part of it myself and I was very impressed with the actors in the title roles – gripping stuff. I must watch the whole film when I have the time.

Tonight the entertainment department gave a night of great variety – our singing and dancing troupe opened the show to be followed by Steve Galler, one of the finest light entertainers we have ever seen onboard, he played the banjo in a way that I have certainly never seen it played. The evening was rounded off with finesse and style by soprano Annette Wardell, they both leave us tomorrow in Tallin and we wish them a safe journey and hope to see them both again soon – in fact, I am sure that Steve will be with us for our next Baltic cruise in June.

We left St. Petersburg at 6pm this evening and tomorrow we will arrive in Tallin – after the marathon-like tours of the last few days mother nature has taken sympathy on us and given us an hour back on the clocks tonight before we arrive in Estonia. Tallin is another great port of call and I will keep you posted tomorrow.

Take care of yourselves, and each other – goodnight for now

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Helsinki, Finland

May 20, 2010 - 11:45 pm

Our good fortune with the weather is exceeding all expectation. Having looked at the forecast last night I had anticipated a good day - however I did not expect it to reach 28C by 10am.

Helsinki is another very attractive city - the capital of Finland, 400 kilometres east of Stockholm. Our berth today was just a ten-minute walk from the centre, or just a few minutes by shuttle bus. Given the weather, many chose to take the pleasant flat walk along the marina into the city. Once there, guests had much to see - there is the market which sits right at the side of the harbour; where there are stalls with everything from fresh fish to local souvenirs. Across the road there are a selection of restaurants and cafes overlooking the water and within a few metres there is the main promenade - filled with fountains and planted gardens, lined by lawns that were filled with sun-seekers enjoying their picnics today. In all my years of visiting the Baltic, I have honestly never known a finer day in Helsinki.

This morning’s three-hour Helsinki Highlights Tour gave the ideal guided orientation of the city - allowing passengers to explore independently with confidence this afternoon. This afternoon's most popular trip proved to be the 'Sibelius Experience', in fitting with the classical music theme of this cruise. Sibelius is Finland’s most famous composer and this excursion took our passengers to Ainola, the home of Jean Sibelius. His home has been carefully preserved and still contains it's original furnishings. After a tour of his home there was a drive through the scenic landscape that inspired him before stopping at the building where Sibelius' wife gave piano lessons to hear an exclusive performance of his greatest works.

We sailed from Helsinki at 5pm this evening and shortly afterward the evening entertainment began. Some chose to sit in our Shackleton's Bar for pre-dinner cocktails and easy listening from David, our cocktail pianist. David has been with us since the Saga Pearl II began and has made the Shackleton's bar his own. His range is broad to say the least, playing for afternoon tea, pre-dinner drinks, music quizzes and later at night when he lifts the tempo and tempts the late night dancers onto the floor. I also thank David for generously giving his time and talent in playing for our church services which he does wonderfully.

At 6.15pm the ladies of the Eberle Quartet gave another highly accomplished recital to a full Discovery Lounge prior to dinner and later at 9.45pm our singing and dancing troupe - 'The Gail Davies Singers and Dancers' took us to the circus with their high-kicking show 'Big Top' – they really are excellent!!

As I write, we are on our way to St. Petersburg where we will stay for two days - it is undoubtedly the highlight of any Baltic cruise and guests will lose another hour on the clock tonight. The next two days will be filled with tours as will tomorrow evening when many will have the opportunity to visit the world famous Russian ballet to see Swan Lake.

It is not only the guests that lose an hour - I am afraid I do too - and so forgive me as I say goodnight and thank you once again for following the blog.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Stockholm, Sweden

May 19, 2010 - 11:30 pm

Stockholm – known as the Venice of the North, and today, weather-wise, we could have been in the Mediterranean. I must say, our guests efforts in providing us with good weather are improving – by midday it was 20C. (As many of you may know – at the start of the cruise I absolved myself of all responsibility for anything to do with the weather and left it to the passengers best efforts – well done.)

Actually it wasn’t looking like that at 4am as we approached the pilot station in foggy conditions. But fortunately, as soon as we approached the first island of the archipelago, Sandham, miraculously the fog dissipated and we enjoyed a clear view of the weaving route towards our berth.

A little background on Stockholm - it is the capital and largest city in Sweden and home to the official residence of the Swedish monarch. Stockholm is known for its beauty, its buildings and architecture ,and this morning, looking as I did from the Bridge, we could not wish for a finer day to enjoy them.

A visit to Stockholm does not begin with our arrival, but with our approach. Sailing through the archipelago is truly a thing of beauty and guests were up and out on deck to watch the sunrise as we sailed through the many small islands. We berthed by 8am and by 8.15am the first tours were due to depart.

Today’s first excursion took guests to visit the City Hall, where the Nobel Prize banquet is held, and later, onto the Vasa Museum. The Vasa is the name of a ship, which has a fascinating story behind it - it is warship that was built in Stockholm in the 15th century. It was in 1628 that it was launched and sank on her maiden voyage. The whole event was documented; as it set sail, so it was caught by a gust of wind, the canons and guns onboard were too heavy and so the boat began to list. It continued to list until she sank just a few hundred yards from where she was launched.

After more than 300 years the ship was re-discovered in a remarkable state of preservation due to the unique nature of the mud in which she lay – it is made up from freshwater sediment, from Lake Malaren which meets with the (saltsjon) waters of the Baltic. The ship was raised and pieced together and now sits proudly in her own purpose built museum. It really is a ‘must see’ for any visitor to Stockholm.

This afternoon, many guests chose to explore the waterways of Stockholm in the sunshine on our aptly titled, ‘Waterways of Stockholm Tour’. There are some 24,000 outlying islands surrounding Stockholm and one of the best ways to appreciate the city is by boat.

Today we made ready to sail at 4pm and the view as we left Stockholm and re-traced our steps through the archipelago was keenly watched from the open decks as passengers enjoyed a sail-away drink with our Cruise Staff, the sun still very warm.

Tonight the range of entertainment catered for all tastes. At 9pm in the Discovery Lounge there was a special ‘Nostalgia Night Quiz’, hosted by John Parton and accompanied on the piano by David Taylor. It  certainly brought back some memories for us all – we were taken back to ‘Sunday Night At The Palladium’, ‘Billy Cotton and his Band Show’ and ‘Upstairs Downstairs’ to name a few – it has certainly sparked some dinner conversations for the next few nights – seems like yesterday.

At 9.45pm Daphne, Jenny, Muriel and Yoko – the four charming ladies that make up our Classical Quartet, ‘The Eberle Quartet’  - gave a first class recital in the Discovery Lounge, whilst at 10.00pm, our very own Fernando gave an equally excellent light cabaret, enhanced by his friends and colleagues to a full audience in our Shackleton’s Bar.

As the entertainment progressed so did the marvellous views surrounding us from all of our public rooms – the sunset was particularly good tonight and the red sky is a good sign for the morning.

Until then – thank you.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Copenhagen, Denmark

May 17, 2010 - 11:57 pm

Copenhagen - immortalised by the words of the song will, always be - 'wonderful'.

We were somewhat lacking in sunshine today - although it was a little overcast, it was certainly not cold and the weather thankfully stayed dry. The ship was alongside by 8am this morning at the Frihavnen terminal, a pleasant half hour walk from the centre itself, or a ten minute drive in our complimentary shuttle bus.

Interestingly, Copenhagen is considered one of the worlds most environmentally friendly cities. The water in the inner harbour is so clean that it can be swum in and 36% of the locals commute to work by bicycle, every day cycling a total of 1.1 million kilometres.

This morning there were two excursions to choose from; the first was the 'Copenhagen By Foot' tour. The tour began with a walk along the waterfront, where the famous 'Little Mermaid' statue is usually seen. The statue is famous worldwide and has suffered over the years at the hands of vandals - if I am correct, she has had her head removed twice. At the moment the statue is on loan to the World Expo in Shanghai, and in her place is a video installation of the mermaid. The walking tour continued through the parks and city squares stopping for coffee at the charming quayside area where Hans Christian Anderson lived.

This morning’s second option was the altogether more leisurely 'City Tour and Harbour Cruise'. This three-hour trip showcased the cities highlights by coach before a 50-minute canal boat tour through the city's waterways.

This afternoon many guests took the shuttle into the city whilst around 30 chose to take the tour to Dragoer; a pretty fishing village set on Amager Island which is full of character thanks to the careful conservation of the area which in part is due to Dragoer having been made the first 'pedestrian town' in Denmark.

We stayed here until around an hour ago (11pm) and our late sail this evening meant that we could take advantage of inviting a local show onboard to entertain us all. The group, Danseben, gave us a fine display of folkloric music and dance, parts of which, we were told date back to the 15th century.

Tomorrow we enjoy a day at sea, and a little earlier I was looking at the forecast for our next few ports of call - Stockholm and Helsinki look to be enjoying a few fine days, I do hope that it lasts until we get there - the forecast is good, and although we can never guarantee the weather, it is so true that it does make all the difference to a holiday.

Until Stockholm, farewell for now.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Travemunde, Germany

May 16, 2010 - 10:19 pm

A new cruise  - and possibly one that is trying to gain entry into the Guinness Book of Records for the most number of ports and countries visited in a fortnight.

No other form of holiday can take you to so many places in such comfort as a cruise can. We all remember taking our families on touring holidays, whether around the UK or abroad  – I certainly do, just as you were settled into a hotel it would be time to pack up and move on once more in order to reach your next destination – it was the packing and unpacking, not to mention the airports that were always the worst parts. Here on the Saga Pearl II you can see so many countries in such a short space of time, (particularly on this cruise)and without any of the inconvenience.

Yesterday was idyllic – our first full day at sea, and one of only two such days throughout this trip. We sailed the Kiel Canal last night which is always a delight on the eyes. It bares more than a striking resemblance to the best of the English countryside. We entered at around tea-time  and the weather was for the most part sunny. In parts, one could almost touch the banks on either side. The banks of the Kiel Canal are home to many retired German sea Captains, and the gardens of these very impressive homes reach down to the canal itself.

This morning we arrived at Travemunde, two hours ahead of schedule at this most impressive first port of call – if you can visualise pulling a ship into your local High Street then you would not be far removed from the reality of this magnificent berth. Travemunde is an old seaside resort and interestingly, home to the oldest German lighthouse on the Baltic coast – according to our pilot it was built in 1539  - we really do learn something every day.

Having arrived safely and secured firmly alongside of berth a little after 10.0 am it occurred to me that there was now an opportunity to pull together a Morning Service. So with the help of the Cruise Staff and Ramon & Fernando, choir master’s, a Morning Service was held in the Discovery Lounge to an appreciative and well attended congregation.

Refreshed spiritually and replete after a traditional Saga Sunday Roast, passengers headed for the gangway to either go on the organised tours or simply do their own thing.

Today passengers and crew strolled off the ship straight into this pretty seaside resort, we could literally look into the shop windows from our gangway and our lounges onboard.  Needless to say, independent exploration of Travemunde was a popular choice. There were also three guided excursions to choose from; one to Schweren, another to Lubeck and one of the most interesting was the ‘Five Lakes and Glass Manufacturing’ tour , here guests not only learned about glass making but also had the chance to see the masters at their craft.

As we were sailing through the Kiel Canal last night, I was unable to host a Welcome Party and so we deferred the occasion to this evening. We were, however, a few guests short – it transpired that the driver of Coach 1 took a wrong turn on the autobahn whilst returning from Schweren - so 30 of our guests arrived back almost an hour late -  but in high spirits having received the news by phone that we would hold a belated Welcome Party for them in a couple of days time. Following the party this evening, Chef Gavin and his team gave us a dinner that can only be described as a  ‘gourmet experience’ – as always it was delicious, and to Gavin and his team – thank you.

Tonight the entertainment was also first class as our onboard Singers and Dancers gave another high-kicking performance in their aptly titled ‘Sail-Away’ show.

We are, as I write, en route to Copenhagen and so I shall leave you until tomorrow – as always, with many thanks for reading.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Bergen, Norway

May 12, 2010 - 10:30 pm

It is so easy to understand why Bergen is such a popular port of call for cruise ships from all over the world – not only is it a very attractive approach to the berth, but from the berth we can see this charming city which is so visually appealing from which guests can head ashore to explore with ease. Today it was particularly picturesque because the weather had resumed its kind nature for us – the timing could not have been better and lovely to round the cruise off with blue skies and sunshine.

Bergen is the second largest city in Norway. Originally named Bjorgvin, Bergen was founded around 1070 by King Olav III and was, so I have learned, the capital in the 12th and 13th centuries.

The tour excursions were plentiful today. The ‘Panoramic City’ tour and ‘Bergen Highlights’ tour provided the perfect overview and orientation of Bergen – taking place this morning, these guided coach trips gave guests enough information and confidence to be able to head off independently during the afternoon.

Others selected the ‘Iconic Norway’ tour, a full day tour that has received great praise. The tour began with a coach trip to Voss, a popular winter resort. Here guests boarded a train for one of Europe’s most impressive rail journeys, through valleys, past rivers and under mountains. At Myrdal there was a change of trains onto the famous Flamsbana railway line to the tiny village of Flam set on the Sognefjord. Lunch was at the Stalheim Hotel at the top of Norway’s steepest road – Stalheimskleivene. The hotel is filled with beautiful antique furniture and paintings and the lunch here is always exceptional.

This afternoon there was also the opportunity to take the ‘Images of Grieg’ tour – Grieg is Bergen’s most famous son. The world renowned composer was born in the city in 1843. This tour took our passengers to Grieg’s villa – perfectly preserved just as it was when the composer was alive, even his possessions and his prized Steinway piano are still in situ. The villa is set in spectacular surroundings and his home and gardens are a credit to those that have conserved them. Within the grounds an auditorium has been built and it was here that an exclusive piano recital of Grieg’s music was given – an occasion that I am sure will become a lasting memory, as it has for me after the time I went on the tour last year.

We sailed from Bergen at 5.00pm, and it was then that I realised how quickly this cruise has passed – because shortly after, at 6.30pm, I found myself hosting our Farewell Cocktail Party. I always like to remind our guests that these are not sad occasions – they are a chance to reflect on the many experiences that the cruise has forwarded us all, and this cruise has been rich in experiences. At the door of the party I was delighted to have been met with many wonderful compliments, not only about this cruise in particular but also about our new ‘lady of the sea’ the Saga Pearl II. Many have already planned and booked their next cruise and were keen to tell me that they will be seeing us all again soon. This little ship has certainly retained the Saga warmth that our loyal guests value so greatly and that feeling is something we are all very proud of.

The ship’s company are already looking forward to our next cruise – the Baltic. Most of the planning and preparations are in place and tomorrow we will get together and put the finishing touches to them.  As ever I shall keep you posted.

Until then – take special care and thank you for following the blogs.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Olden, Norway

May 10, 2010 - 10:12 pm

We should not complain about the weather because we have certainly had the lion’s share of blue skies and sunshine. However today has been a little grey and misty – although we must stay positive and call it ‘atmospheric’. It puts me in mind of this lovely sentiment I once heard - ‘sometimes in life we must experience the rain so that we can enjoy the rainbow’. How true of the weather and of course of life in general.

Olden is a popular destination on Norwegian cruises because it is the ideal base from which to visit the Briksdalsbreen Glacier, and the first tour of the day did just that. Shortly after we were tied alongside, at 8.15am our hikers, wrapped up in readiness for the elements went down the gangway full of enthusiasm.

An easier option for those not wanting to be exposed to the elements was the ‘Fjaerland and Norwegian Glacier Centre’ excursion. A full day tour that began with a scenic drive along Nordfjord, passing farms and orchards en route to Fjaerland, a flat and lush valley surrounded by mountains on three sides. Here our guests went to the Glacier centre to watch a short film about the formation of glaciers and to visit the replica ice caves. I am told that lunch was thoroughly enjoyed at the splendid location of Skei, at the northern end of the Jolster Lake.

Olden has a great charm about it, and that is largely due to the gentleman that greets us every time that we call. This local character has  been christened by visitors from across the world as ‘Mr. Everything’. He is the original one man band, at eighty years of age he is the port agent, he acts as ship’s chandler, sails his own yacht and the berth at Olden was, in fact, his idea and was built by him. He is as bright and as sprightly as I remember him and he remains a wonderful advert for the Norwegian air.

We left Olden a little later than scheduled this evening – around two hours later. We had heard that the weather outside of the fjord had taken a turn for the worse. Given that we have more than enough time in hand to reach Alesund tomorrow I decided it would be better to enjoy a comfortable dinner and to take the Saga Pearl II out after guests had gone to bed.

Earlier on tonight the Discovery Lounge was full and Tanya warmly welcomed the return of Annette Wardell for her second show. I was also surprised to see, on my late round, that despite being in port every day and taking advantage of excursions, that there is a very healthy contingent of late night revellers. There was much laughter coming from our Shackleton’s bar as I passed by to view passengers enjoying a late night bite and a night-cap or two, it was lovely to see, and always lovely to hear laughter too. Until tomorrow...

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Kristiansund, Norway

May 9, 2010 - 10:48 pm

There has been a town here since 1742 built largely from the successful fishing community and today the modern town is still centred around the bustling harbour.

This morning we arrived and were safely alongside by 8.00am, once the gangway was in place, guests were assembling in the Discovery Lounge for the excursions.

Until the 1990's residents of Kristiansund had to rely on boats to access the mainland, today there is a bridge and an underwater tunnel - which was put to good use today.

The 'Norway In Minature' tour took guests by guided coach through the tunnel to the island of Averoy, south-west of Kristiansund. The island's main industries of fishing and farming have sustained it for centuries and with a population of 5,500 it has been given the name, 'Norway in minature'. One of the highlights was the visit to the Stave Church, originally built in 1300 and constructed without nails, bolts or metal of any kind, supported entirely by wooden pillars and decorated with painted scenes from the bible, it has stood the test of time remarkably.

This was just one of four excursions. The 'Kristiansund City Sightseeing' tour took guests on an overview of the city, visiting the museum and local church, at the museum guests tasted the local delicacy, bacalao (dried salted codfish).

Having been smitten by life afloat, some others chose to go on a boat trip within our Norwegian 'boat-trip' and went by launch to the fascinating Island of Grip.

Which reminds me of one of the most frequently asked questions that I hear as Captain: 'What is the difference between a boat and a ship?' At present, I am wrtiting to you from my desk aboard the Saga Pearl II - which is a ship. The reason that it is a ship is because it carries boats - lifeboats. So essentially a ship qualifies as a ship when it carries boats - quite simple really.

I have managed to digress again - the final excursion today was certainly one for the hardy - the 'Kristiansund Hiking Tour'. Twenty-five of our guests donned their walking boots and if they wanted to, borrowed our walking poles, to hike up to the vantage points above the harbour, I have been told that it was a great afternoon out and that the air was wonderful.

Of course today is Sunday, and onboard our Saga ships we like to mark the day. Not only do we provide one of the most (if not the most) delicious Sunday lunches afloat but we also enjoy to celebrate Sunday with a church service. Due to us being in port, we held our service this evening, shortly after our departure. It is here that I must congratulate Ramon and Fernando; to open our 'Songs of Praise' service we were all treated to a performance from the Fillipino choir. Between them, Ramon and Fernando have put together the rehearsals and the music and this afternoon they both conducted the occasion beautifully. To them and to all of the choir members - many congratulations for providing something that I am sure will be remembered as a cruise highlight. We have seen many wonderful sights this cruise, natures canvas has been spectacular and for the most part we have had excellent weather - so there is much for us to be thankful for.

I am not sure how many of the hikers made it to the evening entertainment tonight - if they are anything like me, then fresh air and walking always ensure a good nights sleep. If they did head for their beds after dinner, they certainly missed a great show. Tonight the Discovery Lounge played host to classical pianist, Paul Searle-Barnes,  undoubtedly a master of his art. He gave us music from Rachmaninov, Webber and naturally, being in Norway he indulged us with a generous selection of Grieg.

Tomorrow we visit Olden, a charming destination. Once again - thank you.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Eidfjord, Norway

May 7, 2010 - 10:30 pm

I always emphasise at our Welcome Cocktail Party that I will steer the ship and that our passengers must take responsibility for the weather. Whilst this is certainly tongue in cheek, I must say that our guest's endeavours on that front, so far, are paying dividends – well done.

Today we could have not have wished for better weather at this enchanting destination – picture postcard perfect, summing up in one glance the title of the cruise, ‘Springtime in Norway’.

The village of Eidfjord sits in a fjord that is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and waterfalls, and is at the gateway to Hardangervidda, the largest mountain plateau in Europe. Tourism is certainly not new to the area, people have been visiting since the early 19th century when aristocrats from Europe began to explore. However, the region has been carefully managed and has remained completely unspoilt. Every visitor feels as though they are a pioneer, discovering the region for the first time.

Many guests chose to walk into the village independently today, lured at breakfast by the views from our many picture windows. The air was crisp and the sun was certainly warm. Cassie and Grazia, our Shore Excursions Managers had arranged another selection of tours, the most popular of which was the ‘Waterfalls and Waffles’  - so popular in fact that it ran in both the morning and the afternoon. It took guests by guided coach through the National Park, where wild reindeer herds still roam untended. There was a visit to Voringsfossen Waterfall, one of Norway’s most famous waterfalls, which cascades 180 metres into the valley below it. Needless to say, I have been told that the most noted highlight amongst all of these magnificent sights were the hot waffles and coffee, served with fresh jam and cream at the local restaurant – they must have been good, because not so much as a crumb made it back to the ship for us to taste.

We sailed today at 5.30pm and shortly after we had left the berth, it was time for me to make a quick change. This evening I was delighted to host a ‘Newcomers Cocktail Party’. On this cruise we have around 120 newcomers and from those that I had the pleasure of talking with this evening  it is clear that our unique ‘Saga atmosphere’, even after two days, has made an impression. I suppose that a nine-day cruise is just the right amount of time for fledgling cruisers to get a flavour of a holiday afloat, and I sincerely hope they all feel very welcome.

If the waffles were today’s highlight, then this evening’s highlight was the cabaret from Hazel and Caroline; two charming violinists that are known as ‘Elektra’, and the performance was certainly electric. Our guests were transfixed by these two beautiful and remarkably talented young ladies, whose musical gift and clever choreography made for a superb show. The applause was rapturous and the queue to take home an Elektra CD was certainly a mark of their success on stage.

Tomorrow takes us to Floro, the first time for the Saga Pearl II – I shall speak to you, via the blog, then.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Stavanger, Norway

May 6, 2010 - 9:26 am

Today is our first port of call for this ‘Norway in Springtime Cruise’. I always enjoy our visits to Stavanger, a destination that has a great deal of affinity with the Saga family of cruise ships – there are still many local residents that remember the Saga Rose and Saga Ruby, long before we had the privilege of owning them, as the Sagafjord and Vistafjord.

They were, of course, originally built for the Norwegian American Line, and it has not been unknown for former crew members from those early days to come aboard and visit us. Both ships are an important part of recent maritime history in Norway and have always been held in the highest esteem.

This was our second visit to Stavanger with the Saga Pearl II and as always the welcome is exceptionally warm. Stavanger is an ideal port for cruise passengers, we dock centrally, it is easy to explore and the shops and restaurants are housed in the winding, cobbled streets of the town. It is attractive and accessible.

Today there were a selection of trips for guests to enjoy - the 'Introduction to Stavanger' tour did just what it said on the ticket, taking guests on an orientation and sightseeing visit to the points of interest.

Other options included the Lysefjord boat trip – this always popular excursion takes passengers by covered boat to Lysefjord, a fjord surrounded by steep mountains and waterfalls, it is an afternoon for fresh air and photographs, rounded off with coffee and fresh hot waffles at the Lysefjord Centre.

Tonight, once back onboard the Saga Pearl II, dinner was served before a host of evening entertainment. This evening’s programme certainly had something for everyone, as well as the usual quizzes and films.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

At sea

May 5, 2010 - 10:24 pm

A relaxing day at sea and true to form, the weather was very settled and our North Sea passage was very smooth indeed.

A lovely atmosphere prevailed as everyone got to know their new surroundings.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Southampton, England

May 4, 2010 - 9:30 pm

Greetings faithful readers!  Welcome to another edition of the Captain’s Blog as the Saga Pearl II is about to set sail on a “Springtime in Norway cruise”.

The two Celts, namely Captain Alistair and Captain David exchanged command formalities before we sailed from Southampton. Alistair set off for a well earned leave and to see his lovely wife and new little baby boy.

It is a real pleasure for me to command our latest addition to the Saga family. I will now have commanded all the ships that Saga has had in their portfolio at various times since 1997. It’s also great to be working with Hotel Director Horst Pint again. Horst has worked extremely hard pulling the Saga Pearl II into shape. I’m very impressed with the way the ship has come together in such a short time. It is a testimony to the hard working officer’s and crew.

So, with all our stores, fuel, passengers and crew aboard, we slipped the ropes a little after 4pm and headed down the Solent under pilotage. With a good weather forecast for the next couple of days everyone settled down for a comfortable first night aboard.

Captain David Warden-Owen, Saga Pearl II

Lisbon, Portugal

May 1, 2010 - 11:20 pm

We arrived at the Passenger Terminal, about two miles east of the 25th April Bridge, a new berth for us. The current was very strong against us, so it was important to ensure we held the ship’s head into the tide. I paralleled the pier heading, and applied power to the engines so the ship was stationary against the four-knot current. Then slowly using rudders and the bowthruster, we “wiggled” the ship in slowly towards the quayside. We were soon all fast, and I was rather pleased with the ship once again. You can fine tune the ship’s engines which again is very handy in berthing her in tight spaces.

May Day in Lisbon was far better than anticipated - as in so many European countries most of the shops and cafes were actually open and the welcome was a warm one as always.

I have written before that Lisbon is the perfect place for independent exploration, so very easy and so much to see - it really is an accessible city for any sightseer. This morning’s tour was the ideal opportunity to get an orientation of the city - 'Panoramic Lisbon' took guests by air-conditioned coach around the city’s points of interest with a guided commentary. This tour set the scene perfectly for an independent post luncheon stroll.

Another very popular excursion this afternoon was the 'Arrabida Mountains' tour. It took guests away from the city, out to the lesser-explored area south of Lisbon. This rural tour took guests through a series of pretty fishing villages, before ascending 750 feet by coach to visit the Moorish castle. After some free time absorbing the scenery and taking in the fresh air, the tour continued to the famous Azeitao wine cellars. Here the local Moscatel wines were tasted before returning to the ship via a drive through the Arrabida National Park.

We sailed shortly before dinner this evening, and it was not long after we let go of the ropes that the evening entertainment started. The Fenyo Duo were a duo once again, at least for tonight - Deborah, the cello player, took a fall in Lisbon today and hurt her hands. She is fine, just a little shaken and grazed and was not well enough to join Gustav and Ani… if you remember from my previous blogs, Ani could not join us until midway through the cruise because of the ash cloud. ]

Despite being 'one down', Gustav and Ani put together another exquisite programme, and for that we thank them and wish Deborah a speedy recovery. We are so glad it was not a serious fall, because of course her hands are so very important to her - get well soon Deborah!

Following dinner, the Discovery Lounge was transformed once again into a theatre, courtesy of Jules and Phillipa, our 'Drama at Sea' actresses, who gave us another wonderful two-hander play called 'Betty and Maud'. As if that were not enough, there was the quiz, cinema and cabaret to boot from two vivacious violinists, 'Elektra'. These two young ladies appeared on Britain's Got Talent and they really are very gifted. Their show is billed as 'From Bach to Bond' and they gave us a great array of music from so many genres with such terrific style.

It's homeward bound now and whilst I have thoroughly enjoyed this cruise to the Mediterranean, (we have been so blessed with the weather at every port) I must say I am counting the minutes to our return home, because it is now two days until I see my family. It feels wonderful to type those words 'my family'… my wife Jennie and my little boy Scott. I know he will have changed so much, so I will make every moment of my time with him count and to my great delight Jennie and Scott will be joining me on my next cruise when I board the Spirit of Adventure for it's National Trust charter. I hope he has packed his little uniform - I want him to start early.

I feel sadness that this is the last leg, as I will be leaving my second home. Having sailed the ship from dry dock over the last few cruises, I feel very proud to have sailed with such a dedicated team onboard, who have tirelessly brought the Saga Pearl II to life and is now making her mark within the fleet. Passengers are already booking en masse to sail on her again which is a great credit to all who sail her and serve the passengers.

I hand over to David Warden Owen, who I am sure will find her a different ship to when he last visited her in Swansea.

I will say bye for now and thank you for reading...

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